I am writing this to let members know about a very common problem that affects the Turbo Falcons. The electronic boost solenoid gets sticky after about 10,000km.

I did this maintenance on my car last Saturday night after reading about it on another forum. My car felt sluggish going onto boost. While the car still pulled like a freight train, it did not come onto power like it used to, so I thought I would try out the procedure. The difference was noticeable on the Bathurst Christmas cruise as the boost came on like it used to without the lag that I was experiencing before the maintenance.

Now I have tried to write this for anyone with the right tools and a very basic mechanical knowledge. If you do not feel at ease under the bonnet, you may be best to get your friendly mechanic or mate to do it.

Firstly the parts:

Can of WD40 or similar (I used Nulon spray)

10 and 12mm spanner

Long nose pliers

10 minutes of your time.

Now this work can be done with the battery installed, but is easiest if the battery is removed.

1. Open the bonnet and locate the battery and remove it using the 12mm spanner, removing both terminals and then the battery clamp.

The arrow is pointing to where the boost solenoid is located

2. With the battery removed, locate the boost solenoid pic has a circle around it

3. You can either grab the hose with the long nose pliers or undo the 10mm bolt to make removing the hose easier.

Once you have removed the solenoid, remove the top black hose adjacent to the plug with the long nose pliers. It is important that you do this carefully and pull the hose straight off, do not wiggle it off or you could break the plastic tube.

The hose can be grabbed above the metal clamp and pulled straight off with a little force.

Once the hose is removed, spray a liberal amount of lubricant (WD40) into the plastic tube and also up the rubber hose.

Reverse the whole procedure and go for a drive. You should notice a significant improvement in the way your car comes on boost.

This should be done every 10,000km for optimal results

now u need to just bite the bullet and get the edit man.again

what are u waiting for unleash the power

Nah,

I like my car the way it is.

Fast with a warranty

Awesome pics Zap, good guide.

More anecdotes here:

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29486

I've only got a can of 3in1 Professional Silicone Spray Lubricant. Can I use this instead of WD40?

Thanks.

WD40 dries up, silicon lube don't. Also takes a lot more heat to turn silicon lube into part of the atmosphere compared to WD40. I would imagine that this would be far superior to the use of WD40, WD40 is for use to loosen seized bolts ect and the fact that it dries up ect would suggest why this procedure has to be repeated every 10,000km.

Can anybody explain the mechanics of why the wastegete would get sticky like this. I might speak to the local tech wizz down and garrett dist and see his thoughts on the issue as there might be a better product which would give a longer lasting result, if I had a reason as to why this would happen.

Good write up Mal.

Edited December 23, 200619 yr by Dagabond

Its oil from our poorly made, mass produced turbos... finds its way in and gums up.

Well, that's my theory, could be all bulloc ks too

Just did this then on a 90,000k 2003 XR6T, BIG BIG difference.

The best 10 mins I've spent in a while...

THanks ZAP fro the heads up!

Just for those who are mechanically challanged, for the battery when disconnecting which terminal do I take of first and which do I put on first when reconnecting

cheers

does not make much difference unless you have a factory alarm.

If you do, make sure the ignition is on then remote the + terminal first to avoid the alarm going off.