Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 3m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: OZ
Posted

In regards to the 10 degree jump at idle, that's not the idle control I was thinking of.....but I do know what it is and I'm pretty sure Luke had the same thing at one stage. It's a simple fix in the tune and not just a matter of commanding a specific timing figure for idle either....that won't fix it. Sounds to me like you need a re-tune!

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 8m 19d
Posted

Only does the big jump when cold though. That still make sense? U can actually feel the car rock as the timing comes and goes...

So you don't think knock sensor is also the culprit of my timing being pulled at WOT?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 3m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: OZ
Posted

I have experienced the 10degree jumps at warm idle and a jump that big can be felt. Cold start idle references a difference spark source (much lower). You neould need to log it with an xcal2.

As for the WOT raping....that will be knock sensors for sure!

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 8m 19d
Posted

Ok. Thanks for your help. I'll d/c knock sensor and try it out. I'll just have my ears open.

The idle timing, if not knock related I guess I will just have to get tuned out.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 3m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: OZ
Posted

It won't be pulling more spark at idle compared to wot if it was the knock sensor. The idle is most likely not knock sensor related IMO.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 7m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Posted

I know nothing about tuning but a little bit about b series, with my scan tool I can log iac kam1 and iac trim, if you add these parameters together you have a vacuum leak somewhere, im not sure if it relates to your timing issue but it could definately effect your idle stability, I havent tried to see if the xcal can log those parameters, I just remember there was a tsb ford sent out, it was heaps quicker than using vacuum guage. My apologies to luke and I h8toads if im out of my depth haha

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 7m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Posted

Sorry I meant if you add these together and get a negative number you have a leak.

  • Three pedals are better then two..
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 4m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

Car hasn't been "tuned" properly since I've owned it. So last time knock sensor was calibrated could have been 2-3 years ago. Motor is bound to be noisier now.

This might seem a stupid question but why not just get it tuned properly?

Get a new tune, everything sorted and maybe even pick up some more power?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 8m 21d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

knock sensors normally only pick up pinging, and should be turned off in your car with a forged motor. when its being tuned just use the knock ears. my knock is higher when cold too, but dont get up it when the pistons are cold. retune time 4u though.

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop
Posted

Knock sensors pick up all engine noises, their sensitivity can be adjusted to try to eliminate some back ground noise if to sensistive

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...