May 14, 201313 yr #391 Have you seen the youtube clip trav made with his GTX3576r in his G6ET? That shows a bit of what its like. Strong down low and through the mid. Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk HD
May 14, 201313 yr #392 Author Yes, the .60 cover is standard on the 'out of the box' 76R but I'm having one built, so have some options. That said, garrett have done the R&D and run this combo so it's a safe bet. It would probably perform fine in the .50 cover also which would save me some coin, but I want to make it as close to the garrett version as possible - as Mark did with his 82R.I did have a win today. Measured the catback flange tonight and the merge is 3.5" into 2x 2.5". The OEM flange is 120mm hole centres so xforce elongated the holes so it would bolt up to the factory 3" cat or in my case, the venom bolt up. Still don't know why then that the xforce 4" dump and cat wouldn't bolt straight up - maybe a length issue? Anyhoo, the main concern I had was that the merge was 3" but that's not the case - win!For those familiar with 'Wanago' would know it has had some serious fabrication work done recently. The company behind that work 'Motorfab' is on the goldie. I called in today and he is going to make me a 4" s/s dump and complete the exhaust. The quality of his work is first class and the price was very very competitive. The systems I've seen are a work of art. Very happy to support a local that does high end work. It's only a dump and cat etc, but I'm excited to have some custom superb quality stuff on my car. Time over for the price quoted, I would have had him make me a full custom exhaust. http://www.motorfab.com/ Edited May 14, 201313 yr by Bomber
May 14, 201313 yr #393 Author Have you seen the youtube clip trav made with his GTX3576r in his G6ET? That shows a bit of what its like. Strong down low and through the mid. Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk HDYep
May 29, 201313 yr #394 Author Spent a bit of performance 'mod money' unfortunately today, but very happy I did. Finally rid of the OEM heat exchanger
June 5, 201313 yr #395 Author I've sort of covered this though my thread but thought I'd give my conclusions to help those considering a brake upgrade.After four pads combos in the fronts, two in the rears, I've come to the conclusion that don't waste your money with the two piston package if pushing 300+. The car is just simply just too heavy to make them work for extended periods. Time over, I would have just stuck with the OEM rotors and ran a slightly better pad. Even though the Remsas were a bitch for dust, I think the straight slotted rotors I'm running caused a lot of that. A non-slotted or curved design (T2 or T3) rotor may not be as bad given the way it passes over the pad rather than chop into it like a straight slot. The dust was the only issue I had with the Remsas. Also, I suspect the RDA rotors have poor air flow. I suspect, worse than the OEM PBR's. For that reason, I wouldn't run them. They haven't warped or worn excessively, I just feel they don't get rid of heat quick enough based on pad combos I've seen mates run at powercruise etc with little or no issues running the same pads, whilst I'm parked with no pedal.The best stopping pad I've run was the QFM A1RM's. The really bite well with some heat into them. But, they were leaving frictional deposits on the rotors under normal driving conditions. Because of this, they started to make some noise. Drive like you stole it though - brilliant.So, I've left the Remsas in the rears (as they don't shed much dust) and as of yesterday, I'm running Bendix HD's in the fronts for street duties. They're pretty 'spongy' but early days. Am missing the bite of the A1RM's but not the squeal or smudgy looking rotors.So it you have to do it, go T3 or T2 rotors and run the QFM A1RM's. Again though, I'd just leave them stock (maybe remsa pads in the fronts) and save for Brembos. To make the car better overall, that's what I'll be doing.
June 5, 201313 yr #396 ^^ good to know. I never ended up doing a pad and rotor upgrade and was looking at similar packages to what you used cause didn't want to be a tight ass and go DBA t3's.So you looking at going just 4pot's up front or a full 6/4 package?
June 5, 201313 yr #397 Author The 6 piston front package is a pretty good deal at around 2k. I missed out on a very low k complete FG F6 package on fleabay about six months for $1500 I think from memory. Have looked at the XYZ package but pad availability is the only issue I have with them. Other than that, they're good value. Made sure the rims are big brake compatible so no issues there.
June 5, 201313 yr #398 Yea wheels aren't a problem which is good. Just thinking after mods next month I need to stop the bloody thing lol.$1500 is decent for all round f6 package. Might just keep an eye out for a decent second hand set to come up, can probably sell mine for a couple of hundred if still in good condition
June 6, 201313 yr #399 Ill be waiting for both results.. eagerly..We sort of know what to expect from the 82's.. its the 76's that are the unknown territoryAs much as Im curious as to what both will do.. its the driveabilty that's got me wondering...mine's back together but for various reasons it was only on the dyno yesterday for about an hour, engine temps were getting high because dyno fan was MIA and I had to have the car back so tuner got it running nice and safe and it'll go back next week to fine tune.Made 366rwkw on 19psi, definately nothing like the little turbo coming onto boost however it's pretty crazy in the top end. Haven't yet really played with the timing or fuel side of things, we reckon it should go 400 with a shade more boost and the tune tidied up.Even as it stands, good fun
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