Is it very hard to run wires up to the Premium Sound A-Pillar to Mount the Tweeter? and how much room is there behind that Pillar for the Guts of the tweeter to sit in without hitting the chassis?

Is there enough room to mount 6.5" Speakers into the factory holes? As I'd like to probably add a MDF Mount to the door, then put the speaker onto the mount, in that case would I only be limited to 5"

Thanks.

Was at Autobarn last night and spoke to the installer for a good half hour. I'm just about sold on 2 pairs of Polk MM 6.5 2 ways front and rear. I'm dumping the splits in my premo sound as they are twice the price to install and the mid speaker is just over half way up the door anyhow. If it was the old days and the mid bass speaker was down near the floor then for sure. I'd love to find out exactly how much room there is to put in a speaker in the doors. The installer said that the Focal PC165 just fits with the windows down and they are a 65.5mm mount depth. The Polk MM is 66.7 so we'll see. I'm also getting dynamat on all 4 doors as well which will affect the depth if you're cutting it close size wise. Just some info.

Great write-up!

Can anyone tell me;

How much Dynamat is required to do just the front doors?

Do you apply the dynamat over the top of the grey foam (will it stick in place)? Or do you remove it first?

I'd suggest putting dynamat straight onto metal for best adhesion and to get the most out of it. Won't make the metal vibrate as much as it makes it more solid

Got all of my gear ordered now, Rockford Fosgate all round.

P400X1 and P400X4 amps.
P16-S 6" component speaker system
P16 6" speakers
P2D4-12 12" sub
1 farad capacitor

Guessing I'll have to make some MDF mounts for the speakers, but loving getting a look at what I'm up for in this thread.

also hoping the A-pillar covers are still available for $30 each!

Cheers boys.


did anyone take the plug from the OEM speaker, and mount that to the new speaker, rather than cut the plug off of the car and solder in some wire?
think it would be a much tidier way to do it.

Hey guys I'm looking at upgrading my factory premium sound speakers to some good splits

Is it possible to run 6.5" splits with custom mdf mounts? I also want to try run the tweeters up into the factory pillar locations

I have replaced all the factory door speakers with Polk DB651, spits to front factory position.

I have also used Response Dyna matting right through the car.

I modified the factory brackets with Polk mounts, but it was pushing the A pillar grille out.

Pull seal to side

Pull down (short sharp) on A pillar

Modified Bracket with Polk mount Clearence issue with Grill cover.

Changed over to tweeter fixed just to bracket using double sided tape and dyna matting.

To wire up just made old wiring to tweeter redundant and run new wiring from cross over up side dash under rubber door seal.

Passenger side.

Wire on driver side for cross over.

Cross over wired in

Forgot photos of wiring on passenger side.

With speakers in door on the front I did double 16mm MDF spacer.

For rears used a single 16mm

The sound quality has greatly improved.

Edited December 15, 201312 yr by GeGe6

Good stuff mate I bet it sound 10x better.

Ive been asking for dynamat for my birthday off the wife. still waiting and don't think its coming because birthday was in Feb.

Was Just thinking.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the factory premium setup has the signal sent to the factory tweeters directly out of the icc. Wouldn't that mean adding aftermarket cross overs using the speaker wire as a source be using a signal that already has a lot of the high end filtered out of it?

If all your doing is replacing the speakers, wouldn't you be better off fitting aftermarket speakers and tweeters to the existing wiring?

pretty sure tweeter wiring is in parallel with mids - factory tweets use a simply capacitor as a crossover/high pass filter