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  • Cryptic Clothing Company
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisvages, Capalaba

umm im trying to find out soon.. but I would really like to get the turbo ported and bigger actuator aswell.. push her up to 370 rwkw

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 10m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
hi bjc, did you run your cable througth the cabin? I ran mine straight from the starter motor along the chasse rail and into the tray in corragated conduit and have very little alternator wine a tiny bit when the ac is on but no where near unbarable. I hope this helps

cheers joel

Joel,

Cheers for that, I was considering that way originally but rapid said there would be no alternator whine plus no one had said they'd run it externally so ran it along the drivers side first time then changed to running it through the gromet in the firewall (clutch hole) and along the trans tunnel inside, still massive whine.

Do you have premium sound?

Thanks,

Brett

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 5m 6d
Joel,

Cheers for that, I was considering that way originally but rapid said there would be no alternator whine plus no one had said they'd run it externally so ran it along the drivers side first time then changed to running it through the gromet in the firewall (clutch hole) and along the trans tunnel inside, still massive whine.

Do you have premium sound?

Thanks,

Brett

No I dont have premium sound but I cant see why that would make a difference. are you running any kind of line level converter for aux outputs for the standard headdeck because low quality ones of these give a bad wine.

  • Cryptic Clothing Company
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisvages, Capalaba

I dont know.. but I dont have any whine at all.. its like I hadnt moved it at all

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 10m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
No I dont have premium sound but I cant see why that would make a difference. are you running any kind of line level converter for aux outputs for the standard headdeck because low quality ones of these give a bad wine.

No the system is factory premium sound and only had the whine with the ford aux plug used before any mods.

Is your system premium sound typhoon_freak?

Trying to exclude all possibilities and then will start earthing elsewhere then will try running the power cable external, could be my alarm system also I suppose introducing unwanted noise around but dont think I can isolate that?

  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 3m 9d
  • Gender: Male

I've earthed it in the boot, the engine bay and also run a -tve to the front of the car but wondered if there really is any point running a -tve cable to the front of the car.

It seems from the advice from the sparky that this is a complete waste of time but I have had advice from elsewhere that says it helps.

  • 6 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 5m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

just curious what size cable to run to boot mounted battery, as used to use a 2 gauge cable back

with my old tuff 8's.

Will a 4 gauge cable be sufficent.

Also is there any issue with using a audio cable as already have a 4 gauge cable powering my amp.

Will also need either a Redline or plazmaman billet bracket to suit oddessay 925 battery.

If audio power cable is not usable where have you found to get a good quality cable from at

a decent price.

I'm also thinking of running either a trip or fuse block immediatly after battery just incase of any shorts

ever happening.

Will I have any problem with the trip activating when cranking engine over.

Is running the power to the fuse panel right to run down to the starter and the power from starter

to the boot, rather than running the power cable all the way to the fuse panel.

I have run the 4g audio cable throught the grommet on the passenger side along with gauge cables & lines.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RUS531
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 10m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

The bigger the better. I'm going to do this myself using 35mm2 welding flex... although I'm thinking I might use 50mm2

I myself would keep the connections as they are. That is, your battery to you fuse box and then to your starter motor. Why?

If you had your main cable going to the starter motor that means there would be another connection on the same terminal to goes to your fuse panel, this could promote problems in the future as its not that easy to get to. Another reason is you want the shortest circuit possible to your fuse box. The ecu and associated equipment won't take too nicely to voltage drop. Don't run any circuit protection as you are sure to blow/trip it on a start of your engine. Ground your battery to the closest metallic part that is bonded to the chassis, your car is steel, ie one big conductor, running a cable instead will be detrimental as we've seen. Having a cable as well as using your closest grounding point (ie parallel path) will decrease resistance but it will be negligible....unless you are really fussy or are having problems

Cheers

Cameron

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 5m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

Thanks RUS531,

Was thinking it would trip, that's why I asked, dont like the though of power cable running

approx 5m unprotected that's why I was contemplating using one.

By running the power cable to starter I was thinking that may get voltage drop, I was thinking

at the quick glance at the fuse box area that the second cable from the battery terminal was the starter

cable, I take it, I was wrong and it is the alternator cable and the starter cable is hidden.

will undo fuse box and check.

Thanks

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