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  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 5m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Canberra
Posted

Mine does it in the mornings, feels like a lumpy cam, I've just been giving it a minuite to warm up and its fine. I have stock injectors, I thought it might have been my capa tunes but I've put it back to stock and it still does it.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 8m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted

Mine's the same, like it's got a big cam in it it but mines rough for about 30s. I'm using Seimens Deka 60lb injectors.

  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 9m
Posted
Mine's the same, like it's got a big cam in it it but mines rough for about 30s. I'm using Seimens Deka 60lb injectors.

Mine did it too - stock BA F6, no injectors or tune. Idles OK for about 20-30 seconds, then turns into a thing that sounds like a V8 with a huge cam. Sometime sorts itself out after about 10-15 seconds, a bit of a rev up without me touching throttle (to about 2000 rpm) then good again - smooth idle.

Mine started doing it only in the winter last year, it then went away in the summer. Came back this year when the weather got cold again. This year the car started to occaisionally stall, and the 'check engine' light would come on. Turn off igintion and restart = all good.

NOW FIXED! - change your O2 sensors!

I think the reason it happens is that the O2 sensor takes a while to warm up (or something). That's why it's worse in the cold weather.

My service guru (yes Ford do have some!) told me the reason it didn't happen straight away after starting is that the cars ECU doesn't go into closed loop fuel control until the engine has run for a few seconds (like about the same time it took the prblem to start!). When the ECU switches to closed loop, if the O2 sensor isn't warm (ready? - or whatever the issue is?) then it plays havoc with the mixture (A/F ratio). This made complete sense to me because it happened every time at the same time after starting (switching to closed loop). I think the car runs lean, and that causes it to run 'lumpy'. If I tried to drive through the problem, even at light throttle openings, the car would really struggle to generate any power, until it cleared itself (all of a sudde with a real spurt!)

...anyway - mines been good for two weeks now - no issue at all! - smoother idle than new!

Check your O2 sensors - that's my only tip.

(By the way - The service guys had already tried changing my TPS and this didn't fix it at all)

Hope this helps somebody???!!!

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: sydney
Posted (edited)

yeah mines rough in the morning too for about 10 secs. Ive got drilled injectors. Was told its a flooding issue. Going to my tuner to sort it out tomorrow.

Edited by boosting
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 22y 11m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted

seems a common "problem" I have the same thing, using Dekas.....glad to hear its nothing major

  • 10 years later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 3m 4d
  • Gender: Male
Posted
On 19/11/2008 at 11:48 PM, BA-PHOON said:

Mine did it too - stock BA F6, no injectors or tune. Idles OK for about 20-30 seconds, then turns into a thing that sounds like a V8 with a huge cam. Sometime sorts itself out after about 10-15 seconds, a bit of a rev up without me touching throttle (to about 2000 rpm) then good again - smooth idle.

Mine started doing it only in the winter last year, it then went away in the summer. Came back this year when the weather got cold again. This year the car started to occaisionally stall, and the 'check engine' light would come on. Turn off igintion and restart = all good.

NOW FIXED! - change your O2 sensors!

I think the reason it happens is that the O2 sensor takes a while to warm up (or something). That's why it's worse in the cold weather.

My service guru (yes Ford do have some!) told me the reason it didn't happen straight away after starting is that the cars ECU doesn't go into closed loop fuel control until the engine has run for a few seconds (like about the same time it took the prblem to start!). When the ECU switches to closed loop, if the O2 sensor isn't warm (ready? - or whatever the issue is?) then it plays havoc with the mixture (A/F ratio). This made complete sense to me because it happened every time at the same time after starting (switching to closed loop). I think the car runs lean, and that causes it to run 'lumpy'. If I tried to drive through the problem, even at light throttle openings, the car would really struggle to generate any power, until it cleared itself (all of a sudde with a real spurt!)

...anyway - mines been good for two weeks now - no issue at all! - smoother idle than new!

Check your O2 sensors - that's my only tip.

(By the way - The service guys had already tried changing my TPS and this didn't fix it at all)

Hope this helps somebody???!!!

Wow thanks for that worked a treat.Turned ignition on and waited 30 sec,,PERFECT

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