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BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE


Who is it happening to?  

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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 14d
Posted

Is there any reason why the shudder comes and goes? wouldnt the shudder be constant?

Thanks guys ill take it back to the shop!

Im in NZ :)

  • Cruise Whore
  • Moderating Team
  • Member For: 21y 1m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

Mate, are you still using the OEM rotors or have you upgraded to after-market rotors and pads? I had shudder on all the BAs I've owned (had 2 so far) and the only time I've really subdued it was to to change dba 4000 slotted rotors and new pads. Here's my initial post on this:

Brake Shudder :nono: This has got to be the no. 1 upgrade necessary for BAs under $500 bucks- it's not about power, it's about having peace of mind - about having a safe car for your family with dependable brakes. Some of you may have experienced brake shudder. Well, I wanted to get rid of it on my recently purchased BA XR6T and this is how I did it using all Aussie designed and made parts - dba 4000 slotted rotors and Race Brakes RB24 pads - no dust, no squeal and look farrkin great :thumbsup:

I've still got the dba 4000 slotted rotors but at PitLane's suggestion, currently trying the heavy duty Bendix pads. They have not dusted up as much as I thought they would - but the stopping power is improved over the Race Brakes RB24 pads in my personal opinion. But then again, had the RB24s on for just on 2 years now so rotors and pads not as good as they used to be when I first got them brand new - which may be contributing the difference I feel now.

At any rate - I'm happy with dba 4000 slotted rotors and heavy duty Bendix pads. I also had the rotors machined before using them with the new pads. All sweet so far (initially had a minor issue but that I think is turning out to be rear drivers side hand brake calipers being too loose - Mick at PitLane replaced it for me and not had any squealing noises since :thumbsup: )

Hope this helps :beerchug:

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 14d
Posted

Hey there mate thanks for your reply, while I see slotted rotors as a upgrade, im still running factory rotors, and I have no shudder at all while braking, which leads me to believe its something else, this shudder comes from nowhere when driving at 100+ kms and sometimes at a lower speed, when not using the brakes, if I was getting shuddering while braking in all conditions the rotors would be this first thing id look at.

Am going with Lukes suggestion and getting the front lower control arm bushes replace, gona get it booked in tommoro, if its not this im gona rage quit and farking sell this car.

  • Cruise Whore
  • Moderating Team
  • Member For: 21y 1m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

I had shudder at speed when I first got the car second hand. Would come on about 100km/h as well - was fine at 80km/h which is why I didn't notice it when I went for test drives *mental note for self when buying next car - take it up to the highest legal speed limit in test drive :roflmbo:

Anyway, it turned out to be just a front wheel balancing issue. After they adjusted the little lead weights that are attached to the rim, was all good. And I think from memory - it only cost me $26 to have done :spoton:

So, have you tried balancing the front wheels yet?

:beerchug:

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Mate, if your going too spend the $'s to get the front lower control arm bush done, get the rear bush done as well, and also the upper control arm bushes. The small increase in outlay for labour and parts will be rewarded with better braking and steering control, and it will save paying labour twice once the rear bushes wear

  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure
Posted

Make sure you get all the bushes at each end that are sensible to replace done at once, I suggest get the steering rack as well as the usual upper/lower control arm/ball joints etc etc...I just had the front out on mine and we have to do it again as my steering rack bushes are gone. Luke will be the fastest in the west before too long...

The labour is the mega dollar item here, you gotta avoid doing it twice for as looong as you can!

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 14d
Posted

Hey Guys cars at the mechanic,

hes checked and all the front bushes are suspect (he said the lower control arm ones are sqwishy) but he said the upper ones aren't flash either so those are getting changed out also, ball joints are fine as I did them already :D

should have got it all done at once, but as I posted previously the first mechanic said the bushes looked fine :|

Really hoping these are gona fix the shuddering and I can hop in the car and enjoy going for a long trip rather than dreading it.

Will update when I get the car back but im probably gona have to go for a long trip to test it out :|

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Is this a different mechanic too the 1st one you mentioned? The upper control arm bushes are cheap and take about 15 mins to change so it is worth it while its apart.

Dont use the SP shock mounting bush. If yours is cactus us a stock ford unit or rubber replacement

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 14d
Posted

Hey Luke, yep its a different mechanic all together, mechanic is sourcing the bushes, the ford shop is just over the road, he said hes looking for something with a higher compound.

heres hoping....

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