Custom 2nd Cai

[poida97]

Anth, mate, you are keen removing the bumper bar 

It was a bit of a pain to do- and I originally only wanted to take the passenger side headlight off. But I found that there are six headlight bolts and after loosening 5 of them I found that I had to remove the bumper to get the last one off! In the end it wasn't too hard a job and I reckon that even though it took about 40 minutes to do it the first time, it could be done in about half that time if I needed to do it again. Having the bumper off did make the whole job easier. I also wanted to get a better look at the intercooler mounting position for a future mod...

I reckon my mod has reduced fuel consumption by at least 5%.

Yeah, now that I have done a few more kms with the pipe fitted, I'd say that mine has shown a similar improvement over stock as well.

Can't tell the difference with power or the like though.

Ive just brought a cheapy G-Tech Pro, so I might try experimenting with the 2nd Adaptor blocked and then open to see if there is any change than can be detected?

I'd be very interested to hear your results on this!!!

If nothing else, it will test if the G-Tech works, and waste some time and petrol

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Oh yeah, like you really needed a reason!!! lol

[Blown BA]

Yeah I found the time to finish mine off yesterday too.

90 mm round drainpipe adapter from Bunnings- $1.50

1.5 metres of 90mm flexible rubber hose from Purple Pig @ $20/m- $30 (I got extra- I only really needed 1 metre)

I cut the hole in the air filter housing a few weeks ago and fitted the drainpipe adapter but I didn't have the hose yet so I drove around like that for a while. It is worth noting that the fuel consumption increased to the tune of about 1 to 1.5 litres per 100 km. Propably due to the hot air being pulled in.

Anyway it was too much of a tight squeeze to fit the 90mm pipe under the headlight and route it around the foglight to the lower grille area so yesterday we removed the bumper and headlight to give more room to work with.

End result as seen in the last pic. I'm very happy and I'm hoping that the fuel economy goes back to where it was before I cut the hole. There's no real noticeable increase in power or responsiveness but the turbo whistle and BOV flutter is definitely able to be heard more clearly now.

It'll cost ya no more than 25 bucks, definitely worth doing!

Anth.

Let's see if the attachments work:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Geez mate you went the whole hog and took the bumper off.........WELL DONE

[Grass]

So why not re-route the whole air intake. There must be a huge benefit in having the air intake on the right hand side, direct into the Turbo.

Also think running the outlet from the Intercooler straight into the Intake would help as well, rather than running it all the way back over the Exhaust and engine.

[turb06]

So why not re-route the whole air intake. There must be a huge benefit in having the air intake on the right hand side, direct into the Turbo.

Also think running the outlet from the Intercooler straight into the Intake would help as well, rather than running it all the way back over the Exhaust and engine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Very true, some guys have done that already, Geea's car for example and anyone who has a phase 3 APS kit with APS intercooler, Geea's cai is mounted somewhere behind the right hand side guard, if you ask him nicely he might send you a pic. Its my understangind that the less induction piping there is on a turbo car the less turbo lag you will suffer.

Dazza.

[C.S.I]

There is no room for the air intake on the other side, as the battery and all the main wiring is already there.

This would be why Ford chose the air route they have.

Coz it was too damn expensive to move it all for the T :(

Geea and the like have had the battery and looms moved across, which would be no cheap thrill

[turb06]

There is no room for the air intake on the other side, as the battery and all the main wiring is already there.

This would be why Ford chose the air route they have.

Coz it was too damn expensive to move it all for the T :(

Geea and the like have had the battery and looms moved across, which would be no cheap thrill 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

true, I forgot to mention that part.

Dazza.

[kramo]

Its easy to do without the adaptor plate, just make the hole a bit smaller and remove the clamp and this is where it fits snugly in place, just remember make the hole small enough and just squeeze it in and pop. I found it easier to remove air box, then place in the new tube, replace airbox and line tube up where hole needs to be cut and mark roughly where hole will be, remover airbox and use the clamp you removed from the new tube as the template for the circle and cut your hole. I cut mine as close to the edge of the airbox I could go which then gave still gave me access to the screw that holds airbox in underneath.

Did mine today without the adapter plate. Thanks for all the posts guys. Made it so easy. Threw in a K&N filter as well.

[Logsie]

How hard is it to get the bumper on and off do you have any pics of what to do?

[Trough Lolly]

poida, might wanna check the top of your radiator hose mate, seems to be alot of stuff sprayin out from around the clamp.

[poida97]

How hard is it to get the bumper on and off do you have any pics of what to do?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Logie, I don't have any pics showing how I removed the bumper, however these are some of the bits and pieces that you need to do:

- remove the plastic tray underneath the bumper

- remove the stupid plastic screws in front to the wheels

- take the grille top surround off, exposing some tof the bumper bolts

- take the number plate off, exposing another nut.

Sorry, my instructions aren't all that great but allow about an hour and you should be fine.

Cheers,

Anthony