poida97

did you ever figure this out Matt? I have the same problem: https://youtu.be/J3s6IHbG5LY

Did you end up figuring this out BGBOSS? By the sounds of things I have the same issue. https://youtu.be/J3s6IHbG5LY

Hi guys, did you ever figure this out? Same symptoms as those mentioned above: Constant ticking noise Does not change in volume as volume is adjusted, but does stop when volume is reduced to zero No change whether engine is running or not. Here is a vid to show what I'm talking about: https://youtu.be/J3s6IHbG5LY It seems to be an issue with the rotary encoder or the ICC internal amplifier. Wondering if it's something user serviceable or not? I'm not afraid to pull the soldering iron out if needed.

Hey ScatterBrain, could I trouble you to re-post the pic of the area to cut out of the undertray? It looks like it's not available on imageshack. Thanks, Anthony

Sounds good. How do the 4-pots cope with track days? Ie how many laps before fade creeps in? I'm trying to decide between a set of 4-pots that I can get for half the price of 6-pots (about $1200 from my brother - they are leftovers from another project) - or if I should just go the whole hog and save the $2100 for a 6-pot setup. Hate the fact that I can barely get 2 laps out of the stock brakes, even with QFM A1RM pads and 600 degree fluid!

Digging up an old thread here... Aviator, wondering if you ended up upgrading the lines and fluid and if it helped the 4/1 brakes cope with track sessions at wakefield park? I have an FG XR6 with standard brakes (stock tune at the moment)... I also can get a 4 pot brembo kit for the front fairly cheap. I'm just trying to decide if I should grab the cheap 4 pots or if I should save for some 6 pots. Any comments welcome! cheers, Anthony

Wow, what a difference. Thanks for the heads up on this one.

... or perhaps think of it this way - let's say the decision has already been made to axe the RWD platform globally, I wonder if they chose to re-engineer the Falcon I6 to make it Euro 4 compliant simply because it was a cheaper option than to engineer the engine bay to fit the V6 into a car that was already scheduled to be axed. I hope I'm wrong, but it just seems to make sense. The commonwealth govt won't bother ford because they will still be building a car in Aus (focus).

I just hope that you can still connect external video sources to the screen nice and easily, just like you can on the BA. I reckon access to the plug on the back of the new screen is already going to be more difficult.

some info regarding the power related noise: http://www.sacskyranch.com/altnoise.htm cheers A.

Mine has this problem too - off memory it didn't seem too bad after an alignment, but seems to get worse with time. Would be interested to hear if there is a less expensive way to fix it... A

my list is as follows: XF Falcon - 4.1 4sp man - got stolen Falcon - mild 351, 2800 rpm stall, stage 2 FMX - got pranged while parked Falcon - straight body - bought to use as a donor shell for the first KB Laser - $hitbox runaround but the best car I ever owned, never missed a beat - I pranged this one while not paying attention AU2 XR8 - 200kw on dual fuel, traded in BA XR6T - 5sp man with a struggling clutch - current car. also have a Moke at the moment, will one day restore it but parts are SO expensive for those things. Anthony

What software is that by the way? ← I'd like to know too.

okay, where to now... one of the shared manifold-heat sheild bolts going into the head was too tight to remove all the way, so I had decided to leave it as is... and then my old man comes along and has a go - and the bolt goes "SNAP". any ideas what ford are going to charge to fix this? Anthony

ok I'm confused. we have a few guys using the grey wire, somebody using the black wire, and sombody using one of the white wires. can anybody confirm what is the correct (or the best) wire to use? cheers Anthony