Dat111

any recommendations for sydney/newcastle area? to do the flapper mod

its more having a turbo beanie. im highly considering having one, an stuffing it under the stock heat shield. to keep that hear housing nice an warm

with having such a turbo on there. how does it go with handling heat? ive noticed alot of high mounts have the rear housing bag, but people still complain about the heat

going factory is a little bit harde.as having a BF MKII ZF box -.- an cant change the spring in the Garrett wastegate. as its a sealed unit. boost TEE from what ive read wont do what im wanting, flatten the boost curve/spool a little quicker.

hey @JETURBO thanks for the response man. basically, all I am wanting to do is flatten the boost curve. its a fully stock set up FG rear housing/B series Garrett actuator it wasn't ported. was told by a few people that it wouldnt need to be.

https://www.hybrid-power.com/product-page/new-hdi-super-electronic-boost-controller-se I seen this ages an ages ago. any thoughts on that? like to add to would it control boost eg not overshoot the boost like it is doing? hence using the garrett wastegate

makes sence puff. thanks already got dropping off at 3800rpm (from 9psi to 6)

hey keith would a manual boost controller do the same job?

when it was brand new, not to much of an issue, after this many years.. 100% use a gasket. I had a guy trying to sell me a BA xr6t for 15k without a gasket there.

I put a 4inch hole in my lower airbox. it sounds alot meatier then stock lol

hey guys!! hopefully somebody can tell me, when the 3576 starts to build boost an then it runs out of steam) I cant really find much on the internet.

hey guys, how much preload is suggested? 1.5mm to much, 2mm is to much.. 1mm? ill be using a pulsar rear housing with a TS gate an porting the rear housing using a die grinder.

Anybody got a fix for where it broke at the fuse panel?

Hey guys, the mounting point for the Bonnet latch broke on my ba... anybody got a fix for it? Besides replacing the whole under dash fuse box

I havent pulled out the bolt, I havent had a look at the damage just yet. its getting the drain replaced (as its leaking from the sump, an from the flex coupling in the drain (an from the chra end) its going into the mechanics tommorow, they look to be stock sized bolts. it just turns when I am trying do it up, (im terrible at explaining stuff)

yes cat. that's what I mean sorry.

hey everybody just brought myself a T, an was wondering why its leaking oil.. on closer inspection the upper bolt is nice an tight, an the lower bolt doesnt seem to be very happy, its tight, but wont do up anymore. I understand that it will need to repaired. I have gotten myself a thread repair kit from repco (champion) an was looking on the internet, an seen that the holes are blind an I could potentially use a longer bolt.. has anybody had succeed with it? (the drain is being replaced anyway, due to the middle also leaking) also the correct heil coil will by the same size? M8 1.25

Cheers mate as I'm only running gate pressure with no boost controller

yes I was asking if I need to port the wastegate if I am running the stock turbo back exhaust.. just not wanting any over boosting issues. using the stock 5psi actuator

hey guys will I need to port the rear housing if I am using a turbo side intake,flow though intercooler an plazmanside coldside piping with stock turbo back exhaust running the stock actuator ? I also have the stock intake set up if needed.

thought I would revive this thread! just wondering! NA BF+T will I need to port the rear housing if I am using a turbo side intake with stock turbo back exhaust running the stock actuator ? I do have the stock intake set up. if needed.

hey yall. looking at a BF MKI turbo 6 speed manual. what are some things to look for? (haven't test driven it yet) its pretty rough in all honesty. (missing trim near rear quarter window) dents here an there passenger door arm rest broken/missing intake manifold gasket leak missing speaker covers

I had ordered a ebay turbo core which was a billet. but I have since cancelled it. as I realised.. a pulsar core is the best bet.. how could I go about getting studs/nordlock washers? to keep this rear housing intact

its only going to be using the stock actuator again

on another topic (same same) I was told I can use a pulsar rear housing with factory front housing/bracket an its a direct bolt on. anybody able to confirm that?