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About Wyatt

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  1. Thanks K31fer, can you add this as well. Just noticed this is a "How to" thread, clearly wrong place then. I should read the instructions.
  2. As we all like a follow up.... Milkshake maker delete complete. Learned a bit about bending hose in tight spaces and that I have nfi when it comes to non basic car mods. Some people are around to make the rest look good sometimes. My shout on this occasion. She's a bit dodge all round. Wore a bit of trans fluid and coolant but Anyhoo, job done and hasn't leaked a drop as yet (after 3 drives). We'll see. So 3 turn GW syn ts flush which used about 19 litres of 20, in fact doing last top up, a minor freak out and had to tilt drum on side to get close to the last out of it. Fortunately just made the desired thin stream at 35C according to torque app. Maths says 90%+ new fluid now, magnets were pretty clean and cutting open old filter revealed pleasingly little signs of abuse at 90K klms. Shifts nicely. Just for a few giggles, a few images. Have since added a thin layer of rubber between the tightish zf outlet fittings. If I could do again, I'd prolly go the install in front of driver side tyre as per the learned on here. So now have oil pump gears, milkshake delete and have a 82C thermostat in the mail as discovered current is factory 92C model and clearly a tune tweak to the thermo fan settings coming up. Great cars, love the whole deal. Not letting post other images, will try again later
  3. Might just delete the drill pump ZF flush brain fart and follow proper procedure to get a proper outcome. Will drop it 3 times to clear most of the old LG6 out, I should get good at it by the time I'm done. Spare time is not an issue atm. The cooler is rated at 20000 btu/h, about 50% more than the popular PWR cooler, not that it will get as much air flow as upfront, but will remove the dreaded milkshake threat, which is the main aim and and definitely more efficient than the stock brick. Doesn't get cold in FNQ so heating aspect should be no issue. Flash surge tank @arronm if that's what it is.
  4. Thanks for the comments fellas. Will procrastinate a little longer as time is not an issue atm. $110 will cover extra fittings if plan A doesn't work out. May even consider fabbing a scoop to help force air through and support cooler at same time.
  5. Having plenty of free time atm, finally gunna have a crack at ZF fluid flush and upgrade trans cooler. Just wanted to run some ideas past our learned colleagues. So decided on this cooler, which seems a great product and price. Car is FG XR6T ute 375kw To mount over here. Front using 2 small holes in rail (can see 1 @ right) via Ali plate and prolly couple of self tappers at rear near fuel lines. Haven't found anyone with nutsert gun. Will use a third support strap from above or maybe using old cooler bolts, not sure how much gearbox could move around. Was going to try remove old plastic hose and reuse existing ZF outlet fittings which look to be barbed and 1/2" ID hose should fit ok. Other end going into cooler will be -10AN ORB to 1/2" barb. Could replace with new ZF and 8AN to barb fittings, but why? there's about 25mm for clamping, these should work right? Have 20lt of GW SYN TS already and awaiting new ZF filter and metal/rubber pan gasket. The next bit is where I wanted to try something different (not a new idea) with flushing trans using drill pump. Was thinking to drop pan first (after loosening filler plug) change filter and gasket (6L max?), then fit new short 1/2" lines and refill trans with same amount collected. Then connect 1500lph drill pump using clear lines to cooler lines to see what is going on and get someone to start car and run through gears with foot on brake for about 20-30 seconds as I try and match the inlet flow of new fluid to match the outlet stream using marked buckets for another 10L, leaving a some fluid for any top up required. I'm assuming hot fluid comes out of converter, clutches etc directly to outlet to cooler. Is this correct? Can someone advise fluid movement. Is there gunna be enough time to do all this? So the logic is that pan gets removed once only, more old LG6 gets replaced and process should be quicker, although hopefully not too hectic. Thoughts? Questions are: Not real sure about fluid flow rate from ZF pump at idle, I know you need lines firmly secured to help stop nasty sh*t flying everywhere. Could this process do major damage apart from running gearbox extremely low or dry which should be avoided by immediate shutdown. The other option is to get replacement pan with drain and do as many changes as possible in 20lt What could go wrong? All comments welcome
  6. Shouted the FG XR6T ute a new DIY Hardy Spicer centre bearing, other one was 50% torn. Realigned shafts as they were previously and only good vibrations going on. For the record was 11mm offset 35mmm shaft and 170mm bolt centres. https://imgur.com/a/5yDHepm
  7. While I'm not sure if this mob does car insurance or operates all over Oz, but I just bought a home insurance policy today from Sure insurance which was 20% cheaper than all of the other robbing bastards. Apparently started by a RACQ manager who went out on their own. Done online, didn't need to speak to anyone. May help someone save a $ cause paying insurance sucks, mostly.
  8. Another vid and question for the brains trust about the FG XRT ute, similar to OP, but no clunking, prolly cause the cv boots not allowing spline to reach full depth both ways. There seems to be a large amount of lateral movement in splines between the 2 cv joints. Is this normal again? When tyres are spun by hand, all seems tight and quiet in diff area. CV_lateral.mp4
  9. Been contemplating doing the centre bearing replace myself (partially torn and sagged about 5mm) on my FGT ute and doing a bit of research about some of the driveline bits down there that may also need attention and put the job beyond my comfort level. No noises or clunking that I have noticed as yet and I do listen with window down and beats off often. I have a question for the brain trust here, the following vid shows the total play in the driveline with car in neutral, The cv near the centre bearing has very little play and unsure about the back one, but at the diff end there seems to be at least 80% of the movement you can see in the front. Thoughts anyone? Shaft_play.mp4
  10. Cheers chaps for the replies. Specific information is gold, especially when you're new to this stuff. Driver side hub to guard is around 350mm and p/s is 340, never noticed the difference until now, bump stops look to be close to 50mm from axle, has around half a tank atm, so p/s has sagged more it seems. Vehicle sits about 25mm higher at back over front. Another job for the list, after driveshaft centre bearing replace and zf fluid flush/cooler delete and possibly radiator upgrade.
  11. Was sniffing around under the car and noticed the ssl kings springs looking a bit, errr, weird. Read somewhere during searches, ssl kings can ruin stock shocks, no idea if shocks are standard or not. Doesn't make any annoying noises. Is this something that will need attention soon or good to go?
  12. Thanks again @bjc for the additional info. I'll have to do some in site searches. There is so much great info here. I imagine your car with such limited release/klms is a real collectors item. Time just seems to roll on faster and faster and nothing demonstrates that like kids growing up. Recently after a big night at a distant 60th, had one of my daughters drive me home 120 odd k's in the "coupe" and she loved it. She was thinking about getting a Toyota 86, but now she's been T'd I'm not so sure.
  13. Quick google search reveals, you've got 1 of only 229 F6X's built. U Learn something everyday @bjc. While we're getting way off topic, are you still using water/meth injection or was that a passing fad?
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