Jump to content

Wyatt

Donating Members
  • Posts

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Wyatt

  1. So finally got annoying bad idle/stalling sorted by Dave @CPV tuning in Mackay. Pleased to report it's purring like a kitten now with .7mm gapped plugs, gfb fpr + gauge and a fresh pcmtec 98 tune. ZF changes are firmer with 1 happy driver. Couldn't get the boost in any earlier apparently, but it is much more responsive than previous and don't need to ring it's neck to feel the full bean flavour. This must be a gtx64 wheel, which others have raved about, but doesn't seem that brill in this application. Great economy on highway for trip 1500Ks @ measured 10ks/l down and back including regular wot in amongst roadworks, railway lines, potholes n roadkill. There's something special about a decent T road trip
  2. Felt the need to take a look under the lid and check cams/timing etc to decrease the possibility of mechanical causes with the dodgy idle when hot. Was very pleased to find everything was a much cleaner than expected and cams/rockers had no pitting, gouges or anything else undesirable that an untrained eye could see. After recently throwing in a new O2 sensor and MAP clean, which wasn't that dirty, with no benefit to the condition, am feeling more confident to pursue a tune fix. Does make you wonder why 2 tune shops can't work it out, albeit they're more aligned to GMH stuff than the odd tricky barra. Noticed I'm not alone out there with @Danny Ajder current thread. KPM?
  3. Just out of curiosity, how close should fuel econ as displayed on cluster be to actual usage?
  4. So changed plug gap back to .85mm from .75 and idles better and stalls less when moving between park and drive when hot. Misfire count is much less but still there. Thought detaching PCV at intake and blocking would be worth a try to rule out a leak from that area (but we know what thought thought) and it does much the same but maybe has a little more poke down low. Roads were wet and seems unwise to flog it atm, so testing was only up to 4psi. The change that I noticed was STFT moved in a wider band from around -10 to + 10 at the extremes and LTFT moved mostly to the downside with values as low as -15. Maybe this has messed with the tune somehow.
  5. Cheers @El Andrew The O2 sensor 1 does mostly oscillate fairly evenly but occasionally stays down nears the bottom of the scale. Like you said, a service item anyway. I'll give that a crack. I need to look at the wavy lines longer to see if there is any correlation I can spot, so far when it splutters/stalls the timing value goes up over 50. My work has pretty much dried up due covid bs, so have heaps of free time to frig around. I did look through your posts in the DIY tuning thread about 2 years ago re open loop idle and have added to my notes to discuss with tuner. I'm not sure how the reduced plug gap makes it worse. Runs great at wot, but I won't be doing anymore of that until this gets sorted. Timing values were quite high somewhere around 35-40. I don't know if the data is much good though. I guess if it can idle without misfires cold then it can also idle well when hot. Just to add there are no faults I can see on cluster or toy obd 2 app. All lights are functioning normally on dash.
  6. Thought I'd try another post with less questions and more info. Car starts and seems to run without misfires while in open loop, timing advance around+15. Once it goes to open loop the farting and hunting starts and below screenshot shows the advance goes quite high. When I pulled the new plugs for the comp test which was an idle only warm up (lockdown life), they were very white and the first thing I did was to try and wipe some off but it was stuck like paint. I didn't think much of it at the time, being uninformed. I didn't take a photo unfortunately, there's a shot of the oldies below. Anyways, played with my toy and got the below info @ hot idle. The tune has has afr's below 12.5 from above 2000rpm. The long term actual av econ is about 10% less than what is displayed on cluster 16.4l/100, not sure if this is significant. Can't help thinking the rail pressure and return valve undersize could be a factor, but then again sh!t and clay look similar 2 me. Hope this helps if anyone is interested,
  7. Have been chasing a rough idle and miss in my modded FG turbo. I've had the car for 2 years and it has been a consistent issue but not a major drama but recently doing my head in. The annoying part is when at operating temp, when putting car into park and then back into drive it hunts and stalls a lot. It has never stalled when left in gear while driving. Definitely worse since I changed plugs and gapped BKR7E down to .75MM (16 psi tune) as previous plugs had eroded to .9mm after a miss developed at high rpm/boost which sorted that problem. The old plugs looked all the same with an off white insulator and a lighter colour for 90+% of the strap. The motor doesn't jump around too much but there is an inconsistent popping sound to indicate the miss. I did also change the coils with genuine jobies. Fuel filter was changed and the motor uses no oil and does not blow white or black smoke, while inside the 3.5" tailpipe is black, there is zero soot/oil on the back of the car. The intake manifold doesn't seem to be the culprit as have checked tension on most of the bolts and spraying an accelerant around which did not change the note, throttle body has been cleaned/ gasket replaced which I thought made a difference, but I was mistaken. The pre cat O2 sensor seems to fluctuate between .1 and .9v as it should, although the wave does tend to stay at the bottom end and go close to 0 at times and torque pro suggests O2 sensor 1 is over voltage and the catalyst monitor ratio being above spec. From what I can make out, the injectors are 1000 kpm's. Car has a 465 high pressure walbro on the stock 4 bar reg, fuel pressures must be super high, I've order a GFB with gauge to get the tuner to drop in soon. I'm hoping this helps as it's recommended by some here. Car had pump gears done inbetwixt with no change, so you would think the only teeth skipped are in my head. Vehicle starts immediately when cold and after driven is a marginally slower to fire. Idle when warm sits mostly between 670-700 rpm. Wires going to cam sensor drivers side are not cooked, oil pressure when I tested a while back was good. Did a compression test today to see if there were any clues there. From front cylinder 1 161psi, 2 156, 3 151, 4 150, 5 153, 6 147. Not as good as some of the results reported here previously. Leak down test not done. I've spend some time on the webz trying to diagnose it but have come up short and ask if anyone has some sage advice. There are no hard codes that torque pro stores and or engine light illuminated at any time. When last tuned the tuner was not able to tune around the issue. Car previously had a 20 psi tune for a 4-5 months which was not overly aggressive ie full boost at 3500 fwiw. Power has stayed consistent at 370-375kw with the 3 dyno charts I have seen since being modded.
  8. Yep flapper mod included. The turbine wheel is a 9 blade instead of the factory 11 blade. Target afr on dyno charts not smooth like we often see here, so fuel trim must be a bit loose, may have something to do with it?
  9. "I'm told that the only option is to get a waste gate and turbo actuator to stop a mechanical problem from eventuating." Does the reputable tuner mean an external wastegate to consistently achieve the target boost level? Cause My T has the flapper mod and TS actuator on a high flow billet wheeled 3582 with a 4" dump, cat and 3.5" catback and it boost spikes to 20psi on occasion (16psi target on 98) according to the torque pro app. I believe I hear the actuator belching excess boost into zorst at times. Previous tune was 20.5 psi and never heard that particular noise, only the blow off which was quite loud when u got of it. Who knows what it was boost spiking to then or maybe it was tuned better then? Having said that it uses no oil and has good oil pressure, but is not nearly as much fun.
  10. Doing a TB clean, which wasn't as filthy as others on the interwebs, and getting rid of the dreaded FG idle blues, fart up down splutter fart stall, which recently got worse after replacing BKR7E plugs where the gap had increased to .9mm in <15000 ks, with newies @.75mm. Seemed to pull harder and was smooth as poo. Very satisfying. IATs around 33C with ambient at 27C, which is nice for a change in tropics. Can't wait for a spin when it gets below 20 lol. Couldn't find new gasket online only TB1354, what is the part no. for future reference please?
  11. Thanks @biddie_fiddler Not a lot of difference in the end price and a lot less work for you if prep was included in price. I think I like it without the coil cover as well. You made the catch can arrangement very neat and engine bay looks smicko
  12. Looks great. Is this a DIY job? And what paint did you go with? considering things get hot in there after a bit of boost. Been thinking about doing my rocker cover as the red wrinkle on mine has oxidised off in several ugly places.
  13. So frigged around for ages hooking up the oil pressure tester and yeah snap on fittings would have made it so much easier. News is very good. Cold idle 50psi...5-40 oil...ambient temp 32C Hot idle after the thermo fans cycled a couple of times was around 40 psi at 650rpm Hot @ 2000rpm 58psi Hot @ 3000rpm 65-70psi So looks like wot is back on the menu after sensor goes back in. Thanks for replies Puffwagon
  14. Fark... That was quick. So not unusualish?
  15. Had the big arse oil can symbol flash up on the multifunction display for just a moment after I had just slammed the brakes from about 80kph to dead stop. Was at a Khanacross event where a lap takes about 1min 20 dodging witches hats at moderate speed. Found out it's hard to stop 2 tons quickly and understeer makes tight cornering difficult for a novice, even with aftermarket brakes and stickies. So that was the end of racing for me and after another few hours of thinking about what was going on and checking oil levels and finding no noises louder than injectors from engine bay, made the decision to drive 1hr+ home, which was sedate and fortunately uneventful with no further warnings. So will be buying a supercrap oil pressure gauge tomorrow to see what the actual readings are and if there is a major problem looming. I did start it today and stuck a lug hole on the sump and rocker cover while dead cold and found no offensive noises present, just whirring noises like you would expect. Luckily old ZF heat exchanger has been removed so access to said sensor is good. Car has aftermarket turbo oil feed line with inline 44 micron turbosmart filter, I assume original filter was removed. I guess I might be able to fish around in there between the end of the assembly and block with a pick to confirm this? Car is FG xr6t auto ute, 90K klms, 375kw, oil is HPR5. Oil pump is full Atomic jobby which was installed 4k klms ago, so pickup should be free of sh*t and last oil change 1k klms ago, the oil filter was dissected with no foreign bodies present. The day was starting to get hot (tropics), according to torque app engine coolant temp after each run was up around 98C, just under halfway on temp gauge and normal for this car when it's in traffic or driven hard. Runs were about 30-40 minutes apart with bonnet up between runs and according to dash gauge, coolant temps dropped a bit between runs. Hopefully the low oil pressure event was from oil rushing to front of sump and momentarily sucked some air while at low rpm and not something more sinister. Fg oil pickups must be at back of block as that is the deep end. Is this wishful thinking? I note the OP also had an FG but dash light was an orange light and more persistent. (different in this case?) So I ask the more learned of this community for your opinions on this disturbance. Your time and experience is much appreciated.
  16. Nothing like THE Smurf6, that's 4 sure. An old photo soon after purchase 14 months ago. And as far as the tosser plate coverup goes, well I I'll blame the 550 FTlb's which it had at the time, for which of course, big sticky rubber comes in handy. 19" rims, it seems, give a lot more and less expensive tyre options than 20"
  17. I've Koya SF09 20x8.5S 25ET with 245x30 up front (to protect rim I guess) on an FG ute along side MCA purples, looks to be a gap of around 40mm from suspension bits inside of tyre, guard lip is rolled slightly and they have never scraped. Rears are SF09 20x11D 30ET with 295x30 and similar gap to springs. there's currently a gap of 20mm tyre to guard and as kings springs slowly sag it makes them look better. There's somethin about any car with full guards. Has 355mm xyz brakes which have a big gap of around 40mm to rim in case anyone was wondering, previous owner could have put on 380mm rotors. lol Hope that helps
  18. Thanks K31fer, can you add this as well. Just noticed this is a "How to" thread, clearly wrong place then. I should read the instructions.
  19. As we all like a follow up.... Milkshake maker delete complete. Learned a bit about bending hose in tight spaces and that I have nfi when it comes to non basic car mods. Some people are around to make the rest look good sometimes. My shout on this occasion. She's a bit dodge all round. Wore a bit of trans fluid and coolant but Anyhoo, job done and hasn't leaked a drop as yet (after 3 drives). We'll see. So 3 turn GW syn ts flush which used about 19 litres of 20, in fact doing last top up, a minor freak out and had to tilt drum on side to get close to the last out of it. Fortunately just made the desired thin stream at 35C according to torque app. Maths says 90%+ new fluid now, magnets were pretty clean and cutting open old filter revealed pleasingly little signs of abuse at 90K klms. Shifts nicely. Just for a few giggles, a few images. Have since added a thin layer of rubber between the tightish zf outlet fittings. If I could do again, I'd prolly go the install in front of driver side tyre as per the learned on here. So now have oil pump gears, milkshake delete and have a 82C thermostat in the mail as discovered current is factory 92C model and clearly a tune tweak to the thermo fan settings coming up. Great cars, love the whole deal. Not letting post other images, will try again later Following on Edit: At least the chocking was good
  20. Might just delete the drill pump ZF flush brain fart and follow proper procedure to get a proper outcome. Will drop it 3 times to clear most of the old LG6 out, I should get good at it by the time I'm done. Spare time is not an issue atm. The cooler is rated at 20000 btu/h, about 50% more than the popular PWR cooler, not that it will get as much air flow as upfront, but will remove the dreaded milkshake threat, which is the main aim and and definitely more efficient than the stock brick. Doesn't get cold in FNQ so heating aspect should be no issue. Flash surge tank @arronm if that's what it is.
  21. Thanks for the comments fellas. Will procrastinate a little longer as time is not an issue atm. $110 will cover extra fittings if plan A doesn't work out. May even consider fabbing a scoop to help force air through and support cooler at same time.
  22. Having plenty of free time atm, finally gunna have a crack at ZF fluid flush and upgrade trans cooler. Just wanted to run some ideas past our learned colleagues. So decided on this cooler, which seems a great product and price. Car is FG XR6T ute 375kw To mount over here. Front using 2 small holes in rail (can see 1 @ right) via Ali plate and prolly couple of self tappers at rear near fuel lines. Haven't found anyone with nutsert gun. Will use a third support strap from above or maybe using old cooler bolts, not sure how much gearbox could move around. Was going to try remove old plastic hose and reuse existing ZF outlet fittings which look to be barbed and 1/2" ID hose should fit ok. Other end going into cooler will be -10AN ORB to 1/2" barb. Could replace with new ZF and 8AN to barb fittings, but why? there's about 25mm for clamping, these should work right? Have 20lt of GW SYN TS already and awaiting new ZF filter and metal/rubber pan gasket. The next bit is where I wanted to try something different (not a new idea) with flushing trans using drill pump. Was thinking to drop pan first (after loosening filler plug) change filter and gasket (6L max?), then fit new short 1/2" lines and refill trans with same amount collected. Then connect 1500lph drill pump using clear lines to cooler lines to see what is going on and get someone to start car and run through gears with foot on brake for about 20-30 seconds as I try and match the inlet flow of new fluid to match the outlet stream using marked buckets for another 10L, leaving a some fluid for any top up required. I'm assuming hot fluid comes out of converter, clutches etc directly to outlet to cooler. Is this correct? Can someone advise fluid movement. Is there gunna be enough time to do all this? So the logic is that pan gets removed once only, more old LG6 gets replaced and process should be quicker, although hopefully not too hectic. Thoughts? Questions are: Not real sure about fluid flow rate from ZF pump at idle, I know you need lines firmly secured to help stop nasty sh*t flying everywhere. Could this process do major damage apart from running gearbox extremely low or dry which should be avoided by immediate shutdown. The other option is to get replacement pan with drain and do as many changes as possible in 20lt What could go wrong? All comments welcome
  23. Shouted the FG XR6T ute a new DIY Hardy Spicer centre bearing, other one was 50% torn. Realigned shafts as they were previously and only good vibrations going on. For the record was 11mm offset 35mmm shaft and 170mm bolt centres.
  24. While I'm not sure if this mob does car insurance or operates all over Oz, but I just bought a home insurance policy today from Sure insurance which was 20% cheaper than all of the other robbing bastards. Apparently started by a RACQ manager who went out on their own. Done online, didn't need to speak to anyone. May help someone save a $ cause paying insurance sucks, mostly.
  25. Another vid and question for the brains trust about the FG XRT ute, similar to OP, but no clunking, prolly cause the cv boots not allowing spline to reach full depth both ways. There seems to be a large amount of lateral movement in splines between the 2 cv joints. Is this normal again? When tyres are spun by hand, all seems tight and quiet in diff area. CV_lateral.mp4
×
  • Create New...
'