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About Wyatt

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  1. So frigged around for ages hooking up the oil pressure tester and yeah snap on fittings would have made it so much easier. News is very good. Cold idle 50psi...5-40 oil...ambient temp 32C Hot idle after the thermo fans cycled a couple of times was around 40 psi at 650rpm Hot @ 2000rpm 58psi Hot @ 3000rpm 65-70psi So looks like wot is back on the menu after sensor goes back in. Thanks for replies Puffwagon
  2. Fark... That was quick. So not unusualish?
  3. Had the big arse oil can symbol flash up on the multifunction display for just a moment after I had just slammed the brakes from about 80kph to dead stop. Was at a Khanacross event where a lap takes about 1min 20 dodging witches hats at moderate speed. Found out it's hard to stop 2 tons quickly and understeer makes tight cornering difficult for a novice, even with aftermarket brakes and stickies. So that was the end of racing for me and after another few hours of thinking about what was going on and checking oil levels and finding no noises louder than injectors from engine bay, made the decis
  4. Nothing like THE Smurf6, that's 4 sure. An old photo soon after purchase 14 months ago. And as far as the tosser plate coverup goes, well I I'll blame the 550 FTlb's which it had at the time, for which of course, big sticky rubber comes in handy. 19" rims, it seems, give a lot more and less expensive tyre options than 20"
  5. I've Koya SF09 20x8.5S 25ET with 245x30 up front (to protect rim I guess) on an FG ute along side MCA purples, looks to be a gap of around 40mm from suspension bits inside of tyre, guard lip is rolled slightly and they have never scraped. Rears are SF09 20x11D 30ET with 295x30 and similar gap to springs. there's currently a gap of 20mm tyre to guard and as kings springs slowly sag it makes them look better. There's somethin about any car with full guards. Has 355mm xyz brakes which have a big gap of around 40mm to rim in case anyone was wondering, previous owner could h
  6. Thanks K31fer, can you add this as well. Just noticed this is a "How to" thread, clearly wrong place then. I should read the instructions.
  7. As we all like a follow up.... Milkshake maker delete complete. Learned a bit about bending hose in tight spaces and that I have nfi when it comes to non basic car mods. Some people are around to make the rest look good sometimes. My shout on this occasion. She's a bit dodge all round. Wore a bit of trans fluid and coolant but Anyhoo, job done and hasn't leaked a drop as yet (after 3 drives). We'll see. So 3 turn GW syn ts flush which used about 19 litres of 20, in fact doing last top up, a minor freak out and had to tilt drum on side to get close to the last out of it. Fortun
  8. Might just delete the drill pump ZF flush brain fart and follow proper procedure to get a proper outcome. Will drop it 3 times to clear most of the old LG6 out, I should get good at it by the time I'm done. Spare time is not an issue atm. The cooler is rated at 20000 btu/h, about 50% more than the popular PWR cooler, not that it will get as much air flow as upfront, but will remove the dreaded milkshake threat, which is the main aim and and definitely more efficient than the stock brick. Doesn't get cold in FNQ so heating aspect should be no issue. Flash surge tank @arronm if that's what
  9. Thanks for the comments fellas. Will procrastinate a little longer as time is not an issue atm. $110 will cover extra fittings if plan A doesn't work out. May even consider fabbing a scoop to help force air through and support cooler at same time.
  10. Having plenty of free time atm, finally gunna have a crack at ZF fluid flush and upgrade trans cooler. Just wanted to run some ideas past our learned colleagues. So decided on this cooler, which seems a great product and price. Car is FG XR6T ute 375kw To mount over here. Front using 2 small holes in rail (can see 1 @ right) via Ali plate and prolly couple of self tappers at rear near fuel lines. Haven't found anyone with nutsert gun. Will use a third support strap from above or maybe using old cooler bolts, not sure how much gearbox could move around. Was goi
  11. Shouted the FG XR6T ute a new DIY Hardy Spicer centre bearing, other one was 50% torn. Realigned shafts as they were previously and only good vibrations going on. For the record was 11mm offset 35mmm shaft and 170mm bolt centres. https://imgur.com/a/5yDHepm
  12. While I'm not sure if this mob does car insurance or operates all over Oz, but I just bought a home insurance policy today from Sure insurance which was 20% cheaper than all of the other robbing bastards. Apparently started by a RACQ manager who went out on their own. Done online, didn't need to speak to anyone. May help someone save a $ cause paying insurance sucks, mostly.
  13. Another vid and question for the brains trust about the FG XRT ute, similar to OP, but no clunking, prolly cause the cv boots not allowing spline to reach full depth both ways. There seems to be a large amount of lateral movement in splines between the 2 cv joints. Is this normal again? When tyres are spun by hand, all seems tight and quiet in diff area. CV_lateral.mp4
  14. Been contemplating doing the centre bearing replace myself (partially torn and sagged about 5mm) on my FGT ute and doing a bit of research about some of the driveline bits down there that may also need attention and put the job beyond my comfort level. No noises or clunking that I have noticed as yet and I do listen with window down and beats off often. I have a question for the brain trust here, the following vid shows the total play in the driveline with car in neutral, The cv near the centre bearing has very little play and unsure about the back one, but at the diff end there se
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