RAP1D

Here's Toyo Proxes 295s on my G6et, on 9.5inch wide rim. Due to the soft low rear springs, once the rear went down there isnt much tread that acually contacts the ground, so grip was still fairly ordinary.

Looking good mate

Far out I better get the old Geebanger back to the track, some good times there now.

Awesome drive and awesome tuning, big thumbs up! that's impressive for a 1.89 60, well done.

Looking good mate... should look nice if you lower it a little.

As mentioned above, its done for boost control, but needs to be combined with a stronger actuator. Basically, when the tuner trys to tune in a certain boost level, the accual boost may go higher than the desired level through the midrange, but fall away as rpm increases. This is due to two things, first the wastegate port hole is too small to pass (waste) enough air to slow the turbo exhaust wheel, so what happens is excess air pessure builds up very fast inside the exhaust housing, which in turn causes the boost to go too high (spike/over boost). When the wastegate port is enlarged (and larger flapper valve fitted) more air pressure inside the exhaust housing can be passed (wasted) so less pressure is inside the housing, resulting in lower boost for a certain comanded level. So now your able to command 15psi and accually make 15psi, but falls away as rpm increases, so the stronger actuator needs to be fitted to bring boost up as rpm increases. Fit the actuator and there should be flat, controllable boost. that's the theory, in the real world, results will always vary depending on what hardware is fitted (exhaust system, intake & IC systems and how free flowing they are) and how the tune is set up. The exhaust system has the biggest effect on boost responce, a big dump/cat/pipe system will flow alot of air, and releive alot of back pressure from the turbo, but if the port can't pass enugh air, the boost will just spike up faster/higher than on a lesser flowing exhaust. Boost response can also be different from dyno to the freeway, so always fit a boost guage if you want your motor to live longer, but a good tuner can set it up to run very stable boost on dyno and street... the tuner just needs the correct mods to be fitted to achieve this. Also alot of tuners use different approaches to setting up boost control, so always discuss with your tuner about what parts you have or may need for the desired result. No point rocking up for a tune with high hopes only to find out boost cant be controlled, or theres a restriction somewhere that you didnt think about. Hope that helps.

As with all large intercooler instal jobs, its going to be time consuming if its your first time. Set aside a full day/weekend and take your time. Its not rocket science, just start removing front bar, headlights ect. Remove all the factory intake, IC and its piping. Follow the instructions from Plazmaman for fitting the intercooler, any cutting needed just do it a small part at a time, take your time and dont rush it. Tidy up any cuts/drill holes and paint them so they don't rust later on. Once the cooler is mounted start on the piping, usually start at the turbo, fit the silicon joiners and pipes all together, just leave the clamps loose so you can do a final adjust and line up, then tighten... good idea to wet the pipes where they go into the silicon joiners so you can move them around easilly. Avoid getting any grease in the joiners as pipes can work loose over time. All in all you should be fine, if you get stuck give the boys at Plazmaman a call.

They look like the should be fine, I put the 9.5in rims with 295s off my old BA onto the FG... the BA had the guards pumped to fit, they fitted the FG with no mods to the guards.

Coolant leak is prob turbo related... if you have those silicon water hoses one may have melted... or a water feed on the turbo is loose... either way an easy fix.

Looks awesome mate, very tuff!

Nup, not off boost it isnt.

The FG's run alot leaner at idle and light throttle/cruise than BA's did. Mine runs at around 15.5:1 at idle and light throttle... I've seen it go up in the 16s in 6th on the freeway.

Make sure its a proper Walbro, walbro is stanped on the sides of the real ones, fakes are blank as far as I've seen but are still sold as GSS 341. Cheaper price is usually an indicator that its a fake... I believe the main reason for failure & or problems is instalation. They have to be installed with care, making sure the hose joins are solid and there is flexibility in the hoses as the cradle itself has movement. Always get them fitted by experts if your not exactly sure of how to fit them, as its a hassle for dyno opperators to have to stop tuning due to poor fuel supply from a poorly fitted pump... not to mention getting stuck on the side of the road, or drag strip.

Great to see the car running awesome numbers, as alot of us know, getting a manual turbo 6 to launch is a dam hard thing to do. Well done to all involved!

Most remove the turbo first, but it can be done IF you have skinny nibble fingers as its very tight. There's a doco on removing BA BF turbo on here.

Get in and do it mate, lots of top tuners round today.

Yeah I'm with Zap... parts will be alot cheaper if you use Ford, the custom work wouldnt be much different in terms of cost IF you are paying someone. All though if your looking at an IRS system to handle alot of power reliably, you may want to look for IRS cars that can easilly take & handle high torque, Ford not being one of those, as we all know.

PM sent mate. All the wires are labled so its pretty straight forward, but... If your not sure of what your doing, get an expert on to it. Cheers Chris

$139 posted.

We have these high quality, US made looms for rear mounted 044s.

BA NA motors had higher comp pistons, that's all. Gas motors had the slightly stronger late BF rods.

This would look awesome drifting, big old school Ford swinging around the track with a massive smoke screen behind it!

That shouldn't happen... mechaincal fault or driver?

Like one of these... AEM wideband O2

Spiko, that's pretty much the only place to put an external gate on a stock FG manifold, whilst keeping it stealth and down low in the engine bay... you can get a good feed off the stock manifold as it is a pretty good design (unlike BAs log of horror)with a kind of 3 into 2, no real merger, but a section that is usable, but if they go straight off it and down, as in a sharp 90degree hit, low level psi would be hard to control, making a hard spike early on which this doesnt sound to have... I'd say the spring is too soft. I know this from spending alot of time with trial and erroring, to get a GT4594R to spool well enough off a stock FG manifold. Yes its far from ideal, but it IS a solution to the boost spike problems we are getting from big breathing FGs. Who ever fabricated this has the right idea for this aplication.... just picked the wrong spring. Cheers Chris