KTASTRPHE

Well I left my car there 2 weeks ago, and apparently they have ordered my new valve springs under warranty and only four of them have arrived so far. (they let me pick it up the other day though, so Im not without a car, as long as I dont boost it too much - the springs arent broken, just soft). I bought my car with mods and was told it would all be covered by warranty. However I have had to fight tooth and nail to get any driveline/engine warranty work so far. The service department say that the sales guys shouldnt be telling customers that they are fully covered by extended warranty. I told them to sort that out with the sales manager, because if I dont get warranty Im going to fair trading (I paid a bit extra to get a modded T with warranty). Besides that though.. service department has been quite friendly and helpful, as were sales. They actually found the problems I was describing.

ha ha.. sounds like you did the loser fly by!

Must be pretty happy with that result! for those of us that dont know your ute - is it an xr6 or tornado? what mods have you done etc etc.

Worth chucking a catch can in maybe? Would oil in it affect performance?

Thanks guys. The only smoke I have seen come out the back is unburnt fuel when the valve springs were playing up - so sounds like the oil in the turbo should be normal.

dunno - they told me over the phone - sounded like in the fins to me though

Well the T is in getting the valve springs replaced under warranty as I speak. They also had a look at the turbo while they were in there and said they found a fair bit of oil in the turbo too, but not to worry about it as it is normal. Is it anything to worry about? Is it normal? Its a 2003 BA with 43k on the clock (only serviced 2k ago) I did a search on here first, but didnt find anything useful.

Well, my car is sitting at ford as we speak and they are waiting on some FPV valve springs... which they almost didnt give me on warranty, because apparently the car salesman was telling lies when he said the car was covered by full warranty as it was already modded when I bought it.

Unless you had a good reason to flash your bios, its not a good idea to do it (I guess you know why now). You would have read lots of warnings before you downloaded the new version of Bios wouldnt you? Im pretty sure there isnt much you can do, its supposedly an irreversable problem. Your best bet is google I think.

Im another one of those people that jump in about their own problems... Mine does similar things, but doesnt completely lose power, more hesitates and seems to struggle for a few minutes after it starts doing it.. then goes away. If valve springs were causing the problem, would the car run like crap for a few minutes and then come good, or would it be for only a couple seconds. I know what snapped valve springs sound like, did it twice in my old 355. certainly feels/sounds the same, but in the 355 it didnt go away until I put new springs in... lol. thanks.

Well I can give an idea of what the leather seats look like (drivers one is a little creased).

Jump on www.fordmods.com or www.fordforums.com.au and do a search around in there. IIRC the stock computer can handle a couple pounds of boost, but if you are going wild you will probably have to go an aftermarket computer, or at least a piggy back.

They are only really a deterant to a thief that doesnt have a flat head screw driver on them.. they are incredibly easy to break in to.

oh and it should be covered by warranty, because I bought the car with the APS kit on it and they said (and wrote down) that everything will be covered by their dealer warranty

They did it to my car a few weeks back - I have the APS phase II kit. Runs pretty crappy now. And when I give it sh*t and it either hits a certain boost level or rev range it will run like crap for a couple minutes as well... very gay. Getting it retuned next week (ford wont pay for it because they reckon the car is running well and didnt lose any power).

I read that as NOTICE ME... lol My name is Kurt... and at my last job some of the blokes used to call me kurtastrophe. Hence mine is a more personal plate I take from car to car with me.

The reason they do everything so cheap is because they have such a high volume of sales. If you rang them you would notice that they try get you off the phone ASAP because they are so busy. One of my mates went to their warehouse and said it is huge. Cars constantly moving in and out! Ive had good dealings with them personally.

Thanks guys. I totally understand what you are saying. I picked it up, and it certainly doesnt have as much go as it did before, so I think a retune is on the cards. They say they have fixed my stalling issue - but I notice whenever I slow down and either have the clutch in or in neutral the revs dive down to around 500rpm and then bounce back up to around 750rpm at idle... it never used to do this before - I guess it could be a function of not having the correct tune - right? or will the ecu learn how to drop to idle over time?

Well my BA XR6T, which hasnt even done 1000kms since I bought it second hand is in getting a few warranty jobs done at the moment. I just rang up to see how they were going with my stalling issues and the bloke tells me they flashed the computer. Now I have an APS phase II kit, including a Unichip. What I was wondering/worrying about is will ford flashing the computer affect the progamming of the unichip? Will I lose the power from the tune that originally came with the car? I did a search in here and couldnt find any answers. By the way, the reflashing didnt stop the stalling - they are waiting on a new TPS to see if that helps.

$52000? Probably better off buying a second hand fairmont for $30k and taking the gauge holder out of that LOL

Thanks man... bit too late though - I ended up running my own power cable and a remote switch from the cigarette lighter cabling. I removed the factory amp so I could put the other one in its place, out of site! cheers anyway.

I just installed some subs and an amp to my premium factory unit a few days ago (the stock sub didnt do enough for me).. You cant use the factory remote as it is 5V IIRC and not 12V. I ran the remote wire from the cigarette lighter wiring, and ran a new power cable straight from the battery. Earthed the negative terminal it to the chassis. You cant use the stock sound signal wires either - I bought a line convertor and tapped into the rear speakers. It doesnt take away from any of the quality of the rears, which is good. Sounds heaps better now too! Basically, dont mess around with the factory loom, as you cant really use any of it - better off running your own cables!

Thanks fellas. I saved my alpine monoblock from my old car and going to chuck in 2 dual voice coil 12" subs... should do the trick I hope

Ive done a search, but didnt find any answers, so dont flame me for being lazy.. Where abouts does that amp that powers the sub in the xr's live? Im going to chuck in my amp and subs (and a rca line convertor) to get a bit better quality sound, and it would be handy to know where it is rather than going searching! Any advice as well? Should I run a new line from the battery, or is the factory wiring satisfactory. thanks fellas!

I didnt get it in writing, but I did get a copy of the email that the sales manager had from the guy who traded the car in saying all the mods it had done to it. I have to go back this week to get the stereo replaced, Ill try my luck at getting something in writing, but I doubt I will have any luck now they have already sold the car.