El Andrew

Lol at safety pac. Actually the Kluger is AWD and VSC. I'd better take it easy in that death trap.

Could be a good strategy - buy it and within a week you'll be lying in the driveway fixing the BF!

It looks all hectic sitting up there, but it's actually just an alternator not a supercharger

I have no hoist. I'm thinking of dropping the pan one morning and then running it out to a welding place to get a plug welded in. Remaining drops and refills will be much quicker then.

I read somewhere that the Lovells kit intentionally lowers the front more than the back, and they only have one option. They basically have designed what they think performs best and you either take it or leave it. But yes, using the same type of Kings front and back should keep it level.

You don't need any extra equipment - the flush is basically just several fluid changes, but running the car and cycling through gears between each change to mix the new fluid with what stayed in the torque converter. This means you basically reduce the percentage of old fluid each time. There are a couple of threads around on this that might help. I'm going to have a go at this myself in the next few weeks.

A lot of people rate the KYBs as a good upgrade and cost effective. Meant to last longer than Monroe. Had them on my BA but only did another 20k before I got rid of the car, so can't confirm longevity. I love the Koni/Lovells/Whiteline combo in my FG, but the rear Lovells don't lower the rear much. The Lovells spring kit gives it a more raked look which is apparently better for handling, but not looks if that's what your are chasing.

https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/j3-chips-tuning/ They are a piggyback plug in to the ECU. Doesn't list AU, but I'm sure my old man got one for the AU ECU he has running the 220kw V8 he is putting into the Cobra he is building. The TI Performance guys are great so have a chat to them as a starting point.

Can you do a J3 chip on an AU ECU? That might be the simplest option.

Thanks for that. I'm running an 80 degree thermostatic switch for the fan. I've wired in a light so I know when the switch has kicked in. Didn't get to the cooler install today. Fitting an intercooler pipe kit takes a bit longer than you expect...

Nek minut... Poked a small hole then bored it out with a no 1 Phillips screwdriver. Worked a treat.

Thanks guys. Yep is going to go in front of driver's side wheel. Was going to hang it off a couple of brackets under the headlight/battery. What did you bolt it to if you didn't use brackets? I more meant that I might also need to make brackets to mount the fan to the cooler itself, but reckon I'll go with Plan A. Might use a screwdriver to pry open the gaps between fins - bit less risky than the drill! I'll post pics when I'm done.

Morning Keith? How about off topic for Off Topic? The Davies Craig mounting kit for my trans cooler fan has screws that go through the cooler. The only way they would fit would be to drill through the fins. Stupid question, but that should be fine right, as long as I don't hit the tubes? Seems like a good way to mount as the fan shroud sits nice and flush with he cooler that way. Has some big washers for the back to spread the load on the cooler.

Haha yeah that's a scary thought! Could end badly.

For now. You'll start thinking what else you can do with the clippers soon.

Haha I had to do that about 10 years ago. I'd hate to have to muck around with "normal" hair now. Is a bit of a shock for a while though.

About to do mine and install a trans cooler. One other thing to consider is while the pan is off, get a sump plug welded into it. If you are going to drop the oil several times to flush out the convertor each service, this will make it a much cleaner and happier task. Once I drop my pan I'm planning to shoot around to the welders with it.

Lol I then loaded it into the back of a Ford Transit with one other guy and a jack, with the brake discs, springs and arms still attached. I agree, they aren't light!

That's to suit an NA with X-Force headers mate. You need either a complete dump pipe with cat to bolt up to factory cat back or just the cat pipe with cat that bolts to two bolt flange on factory dump. Example of cat pipe: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271663992661 A cat is pretty simple - I just took my old BA to an exhaust place and they supplied and welded a 100 cell cat into factory pipework for about $450. The Venom option I've linked to is a step up, and should just bolt in at home.

When I removed mine I lowered it onto two planks of wood with castors on them that I'd made for moving furniture at home on my own. You can get these at Bunnings already made too. One under each end, then just rolled it out.

Cobra Nationals at Wakefield. Check the dump pipe on this!

To go from 298 to 322 fronts you can use brackets from BF or FG XR6T or XR8. Caliper itself is the same so you can reuse yours. You can't use Territory brackets as the mounting points are different. To go to 328 rear grab a set of Territory rear calipers with brackets. The actual calipers are different so can't reuse your existing rears. Might need to trim the backing plates. Get decent pads and rotors - these will make the most difference.

Yep when I bought my BA King springs, the supplier said lows are standard XR height

What Keith said is spot on. You can't just plug and play the PCM but need someone to make it play nice.

Hey mate. Give us a bit more detail on exactly what you have done. A PCM and an ECU are two names for the same thing, so what you are saying doesn't quite make sense. What exactly did you swap into your car? What exactly are the fault codes? Lots of people have done swaps and conversions so might have seen similar issues.