shockF6

all I would say is that if you want to do quick laps at the end, make sure you leave plenty of time after the car in front of you goes. not everyone is there to go quick I was catching people by 3/4 track after giving around 40 seconds head start if you want to see what I mean click here to see a lap that I recorded.

has anyone seen a 3 gauge holder for under the tissue box holder? I really want more gauges

Id go the BF F6 rear bar and the BA F6 front bar IMHO the front of the BA F6 looks much than the BF

I would get a spare set of hoses from Ford before you start. if you had the ability to just cut off the old hoses and throw them out your looking at a 10 - 15 minute change over. you will need a crimping tool that can crimp inline blue connectors and remember, black is black

its an intank replacement pump. as for how easy, ummm, well it is easy AFTER you have done one

why dont you give your tuner a go with the stockies and see what it makes. I have witnessed many cars make over your 270kw mark with stockies

the factory replacement hose retails for less than $30 from Ford. Trust me its worth the effort as using any other hose make the pump housing a solid unit and then you must be spot on for length otherwise you either run out of fuel early or you cant seal the top of the tank because shes too long. p.s. not sealing the top of the tank will cost you around 35L of fuel. every time you fill up

you dont need converters if you get the correct gear to start with. get a dvd player that has a European scart plug that outputs NTSC. then you dont need any converter, just a cable to connect it all up. shock p.s. scart is a plug type not a pinout so you need to make sure its a European scart which is RGB.

if you had yourself a custom tune by a GOOD tuner then that wouldn't have happened. the only way ford can see if your car has been running an edit is by some fault codes that log under some conditions. A GOOD tuner can turn off the ability for the car to log those fault codes so when ford check the car there will be no evidence of the car ever having an edit in it.

Great Job Panda so spill your guts, how did you get it going :rokon:

OMFG

hmmm MTX Jackhammer incase you dont know what a MTX Jackhammer is click here

top post mate well done

If your getting whine even without the engine running then you have a very special car indeed or do you just mean the audio off and not the engine The only time my box wont remove the whine is if your getting whine through the other modes on the ICC (like through the radio). If its only a AUX whine then the box will remove it. That being said, if your running aftermarket amps they can easily produce whine through poor earths. this may not be your only cause of whine but as your system whines with no audio signal it is clearly one of the causes. "earth loops" happen when there is a resistive difference between the amp and the signal source that is feeding the amp (I hope that made sense). there are a number of ways to solve your problem but none of them are a sure fire solution, all I can do is tell you the most common faults and fixes and take it from there. The first thing to try is to remove the rca lines going into the amp and see if that changes the whine. if not, then check to make sure you have connected the amp to a good earth point in the car, make sure where you connected the earth wire there is no paint or any other surface other than bare metal. Last thing is to make sure that your power and ground wires are the same size and as short as practical. the size (thickness) of the wire is also VERY important but I'd need more info about your setup to let you know what you need there. anyway, as this really isnt on topic id be happy to help you out through PM's. Or maybe some kind MOD would like to split this topic as im sure other members are modding stereos and introducing unwanted whine into there systems too. Cheers Shock.

If you find a way to do it without combining the syncs then please let me know. I have been told by a mate that you can "fool" the syncs into giving the correct combined value by having really odd ball sync settings on the VGA side. That being said, he has never been able to shown me that it actually works and has since built a cct not too dissimilar to the one you listed above. :rokon:

IMHO, his box would not even be 30L per 12. WAY too small to think about porting . the whole point about correct box size is to enhance the speakers ability to produce bass frequencies. if you port a small box without a speaker designed to handle it you are just throuwing away bass.

the screen is not able to take a VGA signal. It is only intended for a TV style RGB NTSC signal. what you need to do is combine both your H&V syncs to NTSC's 60hz. this will then give you the picture your after. also you may find that a res of 720x480 may fit the screen better as it is a wide screen

I can fix your whine problem. It costs $90. PM me if you want more info

I dont really see why you would bother? its not like you can change your design now to get the correct box size If anyone is looking at doing a box properly (matching the box to the driver) then you should get a program called bass box pro. you put in all the specs of the driver (speaker) and it will give you the ideal box size and port dimension and length. You can then change the box size to fit your space and it will show you a chart on what effect it will have on the end output result. its a top program

if you want to mod the ICC yourself I can get you started but then your on your own when you have the ICC out you will see the CD stacker module. this contains all the CD and radio components. the module that is connected to that (vertical) is where you can access the power amp IC's. Once you have the board out you will see that its all nicely labeled for you and I'm sure you can figure it out from there. The reason I took mine to ASL is I didn't want to lift tracks on the board to disable the factory amp IC and I didn't want to leave it running with nothing connected to it. and I don't mind paying $200 for a warranty when your talking about a $3K device that your playing around with

Yep! me too. Once I put the Alpine deck in, and ran the front speakers from the headunit also(via an amp) it sounded 10X better. I was surprised. ← the reason you guys think the aftermarket head units are far better is because the ICC when modded to give you line level out is only giving you 1/2 a volt worth of signal. aftermarket head units can have up to 10v pre outs which basically means that the signal your feeding into the amp from the ICC is very low and subsequently you need to run the gain on the amp high to compensate. the 10v pre out (from good aftermarket head units) gives your amps plenty of signal and they will generally to preform better. Depending on the volume level your after this may or may not be an issue for you. As was the case with the whine problem I also have the issue of the low output signal from the ASL modded ICC so I have designed a board that takes the .5v pre out and turns it into a 8v pre out. im still waiting on the first run of the boards to come back from the manufacture but the prototype testing showed an amazing result. If anyone wants to listen to my ICC then you will understand what im saying.

who is ASL and will this definately work?? cheers!! ← it does work, I had my ICC done by ASL when I did my system. It is also possable to do the mod youself if your handy with a soldering iron and dont care about warranty

I have a wholesale account with Jaycar, I can get singles for there 5 plus price. send me a PM if your interested. also, I wouldn't touch the 800w amp with a 20ft pole. they hiss ALL THE TIME. its a design flaw. if your going a class D jaycar amp go the 1500W sucker. its brilliant click here for info.

I think it looks good I may even take one for a drive when they come out

lots of angles on that box are you removing the factory sub and cutting the cover to fit the box in?