shockF6

there are a few ways to solve that problem like the Alpine hub or clarion do a version which I've heard to be good too. The problem for me was there price. That led me to develop my own cheaper/simpler version that has taken me nearly 6 months to get right! but anyway, I'm doing what I hope to be final testing in my car this weekend and it will get a soak test for my drive to Mildura on Tuesday. What the box does is take the ICC's 0.4V signal and lift it up to around the 6V mark so you can run your amps on next to zero gain and still have plenty of punch! the box covers all 5 channels that the ICC can give you. whats taken me all the time to develop is because I've got the signal running through line isolators to get rid of any ground loops (common in our cars), its then left me with a signal that had lost a bit of its bottom end, so I added circuitry to correct this problem and its been months of playing with it to try and make it have a flat consistent output to give a more natural sound. as for your 10's or 12's question, all I can say is that I went for 10's in my setup so that I had room to move with the box design to get it right. if you run 12's and put them over the rear axel (where my 10's are now) you will not have much room to adjust the dimensions of your box if at all. I know goobz has just grabbed a couple of 12" infinity subs but he is sticking them in FG pods on the sides of the boot and the infinity subs are happy to run in a 1CF box so there a good choice. Cheers Troy

the only way you can tell the car has the xbox in it is when you pop the boot (see pic). please PM me if you want more info as I was just offering the xbox as a solution to the original post and don't want to hijack the thread.

there are many ways to do this. but as you don't want this too technical, all I need to ask you is if you have the icc with a colour screen in it or the green screen version?? if its the colour type, im thinking of selling my xbox setup. it plays dvd's, games, MP3's etc, etc. its totally plug and play and would take you around 1-2 hours to install everything. let me know if your interested. As for price, if I was to replicate the setup now the bits would cost around $800 plus alot of time in setting everything up. I would be happy with $500 and all the hard work is already done.

I for one think that its a good thing they are calling people and asking for real world opinions so that hopefully they can make there way into the 08 model falcon. at least here is proof that they do read those forms (even if its 12 months after you send them in)

it was not available when the T first came out. I bought my first T in Dec 03 and it wasn't an option then. I think it was April 04 when they started offering it as a factory option.

as long as the cables that plug into the icc are untouched you should be ok for warranty. just cutting the plug off at the speaker is easy to test for a dead short so therefor its easy to see if that caused the problem. not that you can probably buy individual parts of the icc, but im betting that its only the board on the bottom of the icc where the 4 plugs go into that's causing the problem. IF they don't give you warranty you could have a look for yourself to see whats blown. it could be as simple as a power diode which would cost almost nothing to fix.

that's never a good sign I can feel a warranty claim coming on did you splice into any of the ICC plugs when you installed your DVD drive? like speaker outputs? if the icc and the things that plug into it are all "factory" then you should still have warranty on the ICC

did you take the icc out when you installed the dvd player? does anything show up on the icc screen at all??? need more info.....

ouch! it brought a tear to my eye

WOW! that's gotta hurt but look at the bright side, after she is written off you can replace her with a nice new PHOON!!!

yes that is correct, or another way to explain it is; earth loops are caused by a difference in resistance to ground when there is more than 1 grounding point in a circuit. its unlikely that the icc has a grounding problem as there is no sign of audio whine through the icc. I have asked Tim to put a 100ohm resistor in series with the ground pin on the vga plug to move it out of the noise range of the circuit. I've used that method successfully many times on audio circuits but haven't tried it on video until now

In relation to my fix for the 0.4V icc, im now up to my 5th board revision at getting this one right. the problem is when you up the signal you also up the noise right along with it. What ive got now is a line isolated pre amped board that is giving the amps around 8v ptp signals and there is next to no noise because of the line isolators in the circuit. Where im still fine tuning is because the isolators act like a high pass I need to rebuild the bottom end of the signal to keep is flat and sounding "normal". This latest revision should be going into my car for testing on Saturday all being well. Ill post up if I have success for anyone who is interested

he has already tried to filter the power. it did almost nothing to the signal, its not the power causing the problem, its earth loop.

Hey Tim, now that were at this stage of testing with only mild success, the only thing left to do is start unplugging stuff and see if you can get the screen right without anything else plugged in. What that means is that EVERYTHING in the circuit that grounds somewhere needs to be removed and anything left that is required to show the picture must all be ground to the same point. eg. the VGA cable ground needs to be connected to the exact same point as the inverter ground. this should give you a good picture then you work backwards from there and plug in the other devices (like the audio). Ill talk to you more about this on messenger. good luck Troy

$350 I guess your going to go back there with a baseball bat to sort this one out

I took the back seat, spare tyre, misc interior bits and my 2 10" subs out on the weekend, all its done is made 2nd gear wheel spin when it hits boost like 1st used to. as for first now, well unless your just after a smoke show you just dont bother anyway, my point is that those 3 things made a BIG difference. need to keep in mind though that my subs in there box would weigh close to 30kgs

what can I say??? thanks a million dags that site is awesome

Hi everyone, im looking for a medium to high res version of the FPV logo in any file format. the reason im after a logo is im creating a road runner dashboard and would like the centre piece to be the FPV logo. If you have a Ford logo that would be good too, if I can get the logos ill upload the finished product so other forum members can benefit cheers, shock

ok here goes, the box I have will fix your "non charging" related whine pretty close to 100%. as for the whine while charging, well that's a little more complicated. as for your car kit whine, as the aux box is designed for line level signals and the car kits output a speaker level, therefor they are not really compatible. Im actually doing alot of testing tomorrow on a few different prototype boards and one of them just happens to be a car kit whine remover so at the moment its a little hard to say if its worth praying to ford for a cure, but if all goes well tomorrow ill be able to solve all of your whine problems with the exception of the whine while charging. .

yeah, my box is built into the aux cable. it uses the ford aux input plug so its just plug and play. as for the ipod charger, be careful there as I know of a car that is getting noise induced by a ipod charger that goes away when its not on charge. I'm thinking that a power filter will fix that issue but I haven't been able to test it out yet. The best option is to find a charger from a store that doesn't mind doing refunds if the charger you get is the type that is causing the noise. The charger in question was bought from ebay so im not too sure about the quality of it and im confident that if you had a genuine ipod charger there wouldn't be an issue.

the box I have is only for the aux in cable. it is not for a wireless setup. you will need to use the head phone output for it to work with my box. im assuming your talking about the BA standard audio system?? there are a couple of options for you: a) make you own cable for the aux input. You can buy all the parts you need from either Jaycar or DSE for around $8 - $10. This is what I did in the beginning and its not that hard to do. b) buy a pre made cable from ford spare parts for around $30. its easier than building your own cable but offers no improvement in sound quality. c) buy one of my aux in boxes for $90. These are easy to install and also address the problems with low sound output that you get with options a) and b). another side benefit is that if your car happens to be one of the whiny ones then my box fixes that as well. d) buy a wireless transmitter that tunes into a FM station on your radio. Im not 100% sure but I think these are around the $30 mark, but as you can see from earlier posts, they have there issues. for me personally, I have been through options a), b) and finally had to develop my own box, option c), because I wasn't happy with the sound quality and level that I was getting from the first 2 cables. If you need any more info just let me know Cheers Troy

the most common cause for in car audio whine is ground differentials. and the quickest way to find out if that's your problem is to unplug the rca leads at the amp end and see if the whine is still there. if it is then your whine is power related (not as common). if the whine goes away once you pull the rcas out then you have an earth loop created through the ground in the rca line. to fix the latter you install a line isolation transformer. keep in mind that this will effect your bottom end as they act like a high pass filter when you use them. let me know how you go, if it is the rca's I may have a product that will fix it all for you and not get any frequency loss in the process.

Its a custom circuit that I designed, well actually there was around 15 designs to get it to where it is today. in very basic terms there is a digital filter for the noise and a pre amp for the gain. I started out with just a preamp to boost the level and that does help quite alot, but when you combine that with the digital filter the whine pretty much disappears. well the only time you will ever hear a trace of whine is when you have the volume turned up with no music playing, but when would you ever drive around listening to nothing with the volume turned all the way up? The boards I use are not dodgy home made jobs, I send the protel files off to a manufacture who makes the boards for me and silk screens them. then the components are fitted and all I do is put the plugs and sockets on and fit them into a little black box. This is why they cost $90. but when you compare that to the boosted ford box @ $130 its still cheaper and the ford unit is only a preamp.

I have a box that fixes the aux whine. It plugs into the aux input and gives you a 3.5mm socket to plug your ipod etc into. The box also boosts the audio level so you dont have to turn it up all the way just to hear anything. the box sells for $90 + $10 for a courier (or pickup in Blackburn Vic) PM me for more details

reboot the computer and it should unlock it. if not, use a boot disk and get it that way.