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Roley94

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Everything posted by Roley94

  1. I have a BA Ute that has always had pretty average brakes no matter what I did. I just thought it was because of the stock ba brakes so I upgraded the fronts to 4 piston brembos and that made absolutely no difference. When I bled the brakes after the upgrade I noticed something wasn’t right with the front right caliper, there was nowhere near the amount of fluid coming out as opposed the left caliper, which bled fine. The pedal has always felt fine and the car does stop fine but they don’t feel anything like the brakes on my bf sedan. A few months later after not washing the car for a while I noticed the front left rim is black with brake dust and the front right is very clean. I can’t see the problem being with the master cylinder as the front and rear are pairs, it can’t be the caliper itself because I noticed the lack of fluid dripping out of the hardline when the hose was disconnected from the stock caliper. Could this be a problem with the abs pump? Maybe a blockage in the pump or something further down that brake line?
  2. It’s an XFT built engine with about 30k km and it runs smooth, I’ve never noticed or felt anything weird other than the balancer bolt coming loose often. Could it be time for a proper balancer like an atomic or Ross?
  3. So the balancer is either not up to the job or there’s and engine balance problem? The car does see high rpm regularly
  4. Has anyone used an arp balancer bolt? I’ve heard you can torque the arp more than the standard bolt. My bolt keeps coming loose every few months and I’m using a powerbond balancer. Torquing the standard bolt to 125nm and using plenty of loctite it still comes loose. The balancer is still a very tight press fit so I don’t think it’s been wearing on the key.
  5. Don’t worry about measuring it, I’d say it’s definitely a fg diff then. Thanks guys
  6. Yes it is 2.73 ratio but the label on the diff is gone so I can’t tell if only the gears had been swapped into the original diff or if the whole diff was swapped. If the fg diff is 50mm then that confirms it.
  7. I can’t find the thread discussing the different lengths between the b series and fg Ute diffs and I cant remember what’s what, I’ve just pulled the axles out of my ba turbo Ute and put them next to what I know are bf xr8 axles and the ones I pulled out are about 25mm longer. I’m quite sure turbo and xr8 diffs are the same. The Ute has also had a zf conversion so I wouldn’t be surprised if the whole diff was swapped out. Would that mean I have an fg diff in my ba?
  8. I wanted to run it on a 4 cylinder, but I guess there is no way for the average person to go in there and define things like sensor types and crank trigger patterns. I know there are much better standalone ecu options out there but it was just an idea I was toying with
  9. Anyone know if a Barra ecu can be used on a completely different engine? As you can change the number of cylinders and firing order. It would need a different crank trigger and obviously a complete remap of the speed density tables but could it be possible?
  10. Could have come from anywhere I guess. Car runs fine so I won’t go digging into it
  11. The only steel line left is the return line everything else is braided line. Definitely sparkly gold/brass colour and a lot of it. I assume pump gears are steel not brass? Could have come from the servo maybe?
  12. I’ve just drained my tank of e85 as I’m switching back to 98 and I noticed a fair amount of metal shavings as well as some white clumps coming out of the surge tank. The shavings looks like brass particles. I wouldn’t think there’d be any brass components in a 044, but I’m unsure of what pump is in the tank. Anyone know what it could be from? Thanks
  13. Sounds amazing, especially when it’s on gate
  14. It’s a Garrett gt51r, it looks tiny in that pic but it isn’t really. Hard to compare it to a stock manifold but it would flow a heap more.
  15. I definitely don’t want paint fade so I guess I’ll keep the heat shield on, haven’t had a problem with it on but its just a shame to hide the manifold
  16. Would ceramic coating the manifold help? Or would it always need a proper heat shield in place?
  17. Would it be a bad idea to run a nizpro low mount manifold without its heat shield over the top? Thanks
  18. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the rear tailshaft cv on a BF ute would be running out of travel and riding on the very edge of the outer race? I installed a new rear cv along with a new centre bearing and I disassembled the centre cv and regreased it. Everything bolted back up fine and there where no noises or vibrations at all until about 200km later when I did a 3rd gear pull, when I let off there was a grinding noise coming from the back and a bad vibration. I pulled over to check but didnt see anything obvious and when I drove off the grinding was gone. I thought all was good so I boosted it again and the noise came back and stayed but was much louder with worse vibrations. In the pictures you can see the contact marks on the old and new inner race, the grease cap has been pushed into the diff flange and you can see where the ball bearings would have been sitting on the rounded over part off the outer race. I dont know if its related but something has messed with the diff gear contact pattern and theres metal particles throughout the diff from the gears. The preload on the pinion was so tight that the pinion was almost seized but that could have been from the cv forcing itself into the diff? Its got me stumped, the diff hasnt moved off the leaf springs and I dont think its possible to assemble the tailshaft wrong as the cvs only go one way to have the boot fitting properly. The new rear cv is 100% the same as the one I just replaced.
  19. Does anyone know if a f100 centre bearing works on our tailshafts? I’ve heard they can be used as it has the same bearing ID, you just need to modify the mounts. They look a lot stronger too
  20. Roley94

    Tcm issue

    I found this pdf which explains how the obd2 system works http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1105.pdf There is a section on the zf and it explains how the tcm runs its tests and detects faults. It explians the P0701 code - If the diagnostic software tries to enter two contradictory failure mode strategies or if there are contradictory output states commanded versus the expected output states, a P0701 fault is stored. Still not quite sure what that means, could be a faulty tcm. I have a few spare tcms so I might try swapping it out along with the solenoids and doing a module reprogram and see what happens.
  21. Roley94

    Tcm issue

    I recently picked up a ba Ute that has had a zf conversion, the Ute has a bf 6 speed engine loom, bf abs module and bf ecu but I’m unsure if they are all from the same donor car. Not sure about the cluster and other modules if they are the original ba units or replaced with bf modules. The problem I’m having is the tcm doesn’t seem to want to talk to the ecu, I’m getting a p0701 code tcm out of range and other can bus errors. I still have all 6 gears and the car drives fine most of the time but sometimes it will change itself to 4th and be stuck there until I turn the car off and on again. The gear indicator on the dash is constantly flashing and the box will slip in 3rd, 4th and 5th and sometimes slam into 4th. When it slips in 5th it will change by itself into 6th while still in manual mode. The previous owner had the zf rebuilt 3 times until it was realised that something else other than the power level was killing the box. It’s a stage 2 xft box and should be up to the task of handling the power. Could there be some module that isn’t quite compatible with something in the car and causing the tcm to freak out? The flashing gear indicator seems to be a limp mode thing but I always have 6 gears. I get 5 long beeps about a minute after starting the car which come back every 10 minutes or so, this could be related to the oil pressure sensor which isn’t hooked up because when it is the oil light is constantly on. I’ve heard there can be issues with the oil pressure sensor on conversions. Would anyone have any idea what’s causing these problems or what to check? Could it be as simple as a module that needs reprogramming or pairing to the ecu? Thanks
  22. It’s definitely not made of steel or aluminium, I just thought it might have a purpose. I’ll machine a new plug out of aluminium and press it in. Thanks
  23. Does anyone know what the big plug at the back of the cylinder head is called? It’s kind of like a core plug but It seems to be made of zinc or magnesium and is 10mm thick, I’d say acts as a sacrificial anode and is meant to corrode before your head does. Mine has just corroded through which I have never heard of happening and I can’t find any info about it.
  24. Turns out the backplate wasn't machined properly, I've managed to modify the stock backplate to work with new housing.
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