Roley94

Has anyone had problems fitting a Kinugawa 0.7 housing to their stock 3582? Mine seems like its sitting too deep and causing the wheel to rub slightly on the centre of the wheels radius, no rubbing on the sides and the side clearance is fine. Could it be a problem with the backplate machining maybe?

Hi guys, needing some advice from anyone that may have done this. I've just picked up a TR6060 from an fg to replace the zf auto in my bf sedan. I'm aware of what needs to be done but I've heard the crossmember needs to be changed out, Can I use the fg manual crossmember or do I need a T56 crossmember? Do the bf and fg manual tailshafts both use the same yoke? Id rather leave the auto wiring harness in place and just bridge the neutral switch. Will the car freak out and not be drivable when it can't find the auto computer? Obviously I'll get a tuner to sort out the ecu at the end. Thanks

Solved!! left battery unplugged over night and it starts and runs fine now

Yesterday I put in a set of atomic stage 3 camshafts into my bf turbo. I wanted to do some data logging with them as I had just installed a wideband O2 sensor. These cams ran quite well untuned even on boost but ideally needed tuning, so I put the stock cams back in. I have had the atomic cams in before and have had no problems after putting the stock cams back in, but this time the car ran very rough but eventually settled down. I reflashed the ecu with my custom tune and that helped but I'm still having a problem with high idle. The car will rev up to 2000rpm as soon as I start it and after about 5 seconds it will drop down to 1000rpm. If I just tap the throttle very quickly and softly the revs will jump up the 2500rpm and stay there. The car drives fine but it try's to drive by itself and will take off without me accelerating. When I turn the car off the engine doesn't stop smoothly, it's shakes around just before it stops. The problem doesn't seem to be with the cams anymore, I've rechecked the timing and it's spot on. I have also cleaned the throttle body, checked for vacuum leaks and sprayed hoses with carb cleaner to see if there's a leak anywhere but there isn't. I have even replaced the TPS but I'm still having the same problem and I have no idea why. Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks

Manifold is twin pulse and turbo is a twin scroll gt42, I may as well go twin as I already have 1 tial 44mm, but manifold currently has no wastegate ports welded to the collector so I could go single 60mm and sell the other 2 wastegates.

Just thought I'd ask first as I already had a 38 and a 44 laying around but I was more curious than anything else. Looks like I'll go twin 44mm

Anyone know if it's possible to run 2 different sized wastegates on a twin scroll manifold, say a 38mm and a 44mm together. Would you run into any tuning or boost control issues?

Is it possible to change the cv boots on the standard cv joints without cutting that metal case thing off? Seems you can't take the cv apart without removing the metal case, if that's the case then you would have to replace it with a bigger longer boot, right? Also what are people's thoughts on filling the cv with diff oil instead of packing it with grease.

It really wasn't hard at all to rebuild, depends on your skill level I guess. Just work in a clean environment and keep track of how things came out. Yeah E clutch fried, it had purple steels that's how hot it got, can't remeber if it was B or C but there where a few hotspots.

It's holding up fine, was only a standard rebuild with new frictions, steels and seals just to keep me going for a while.

I had to think about it for a minute, but makes perfect sense now Thanks

Perfect! thank you very much, wasn't too hard at all

forgot to attach picture

Just finishing up a rebuild on my transmission, I'm onto the last snap ring that holds the a and e drums together but can't figure out how it goes back in. There's two locking tabs that the snap ring needs to slide over. Anyone have any experience with this?

I swapped my zf over a while ago and swapped the valvebody and mechatronics as one. To remove the valvebody you have to undo the 10 I think torx bolts with the bigger heads, the entire valvebody and mechatronics will now lift straight out. you can also seperate the mecahtronics from the valvebody and swap the mechatronics over to the old valvebody which is what I ended up doing later down the track.

I keep seeing arp head studs around different sites, some are labeled as arp2000 and others are just arp. Are all head studs arp2000 or are there different types like there are for rod bolts like 8740 or L19

or I could get the pressure washer and degreaser out

anyway to remove the baffle at the bottom of the sump, seems like its been riveted in. would drilling them out be the best way, then maybe tapping the holes so it can be screwed back in after. Theres a lot of chunks and sludge and I want to give it a good clean before it goes on the new engine

so I was changing coils and gapping plugs and I thought id put a camera down the spark plug hole for fun and found there is heavy carbon deposits on the pistons. On all pistons there seems to be a patch where it looks like its been burnt away, probably on the exhaust side but I cant remember. Is this normal or something I should look at, all spark plugs have a normal colour to them, not too rich or lean and its not burning oil. I also noticed all the cylinder walls still have a very good cross hatch pattern on them even after 180000kms

It's just that I have about 14m of 2 gauge welding cable, would be nice to be able to use some of that instead of buying new 00 gauge

If I was to use two lengths of 2 gauge wire joined in parallel to run from the boot to the starter motor would it have any negative effects, it would have more surface area than 00 gauge so maybe less voltage drop?

All fixed, turns out I had the plug wired up opposite. Works great now

I am using this converter which I have seen being used in a few carputer projects. I didn't have any proper screened video cable on hand so I used a piece of USB cable which is screened. I will pick up the proper cable tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

Just wired up a vga to cga converter to the icc. I plugged my laptop into it to test it but I get scrolling lines across the screen. You can see the desktop image in the back ground but it's not very clear. Could this be interference?