bionic_oosty

Well done dude - If it feels better & temps are improved, gotta be happy with that for a cheap knock together.

Hey Boost69 - The dealer was Macarthur Ford (Blaxland Rd Campbelltown). But if that's a little out of your way I'd just be going to your local Ford and saying "Hey I was quoted $50 per coil at Macarthur Ford, can u beat match/better this?". If you can part with $300 and your car is over 100,000kms, I would recommend doing all 6 instead of running a new one with 5 that could cark it any day! My car has definately gained its lost power back and runs SO smooth on boost now.. Let us know how you get on with purchasing and fixing problem mate

Velocity - Well called mate! I do remember very first response you said Coil packs. Whether or not BOOST69 has same problem, I don't know.. but I'd be trying coils for sure

Picked up 6 new coil packs from Ford this arvo. They quoted $66 on phone yesty, then the same place today quoted $72 and then when I asked whats the best you can do? I got them for $50 per coil! Lol wtf... Moving along - Car is perfect now mate. No missing at idle or under load. All good now!

Evil xr6t - Yeah mate the obvious thing would lead me to plugs, but they are not even 2 months old and are top quality from tuners.. But stranger things have happened!! So I will be putting them in first to test the reaction.. Then I will put Coils in if there is no improvement. Even without the miss firing, the car just feel painfully slow and there is no kick when boosting up! It used to throw me in the seat all the way into easch gear only a couple weeks ago.. But yes, I will start with plugs, then coils and into the fuel system etc like BJC mentioned.

Boost69 - I'm having almost same problem.. Mine started off as just rough idle, then it turned into being real sluggish, and as of last night at WSID it started miss firing and spluttering badly when boosting up!! Maybe yours hasn't reached this stage as it's still stock and not so harsh on the problem.. Mine has almost brand new plugs gapped & put in for my tune 2 months ago, so I'm thinking it's the original coil packs slowly breaking down to where it's at now... Annoying thing is, I was so concerned with the loss of power that I got it dyno tested yesterday morning and it wasn't at the spluttering stage and they said the loss of 25rwkw & 70nm torque was bad fuel due to a ping they picked up and the timing being retarded by ecu. I threw in a bottle of Nulon Octane booster & 1/2 BP ultimate, cleaned throttle body, boost solenoid and it got worse!! Plugs & coils is what I'm trying next, so I'll post up if coils help/don't help. $66 EACH from Ford....wow

So I bought a new thermostat, coolant cap and coolant today.. Drained old fluid tonight, fitted new thermostat and cap... I had the heater on max heat and ran car for about 15 mins with coolant cap removed and I never seen the coolant level drop or heard the thermostat click/engage...My temp just would not go above about half way between 1/4 & 1/2. How long does it usually take and should the coolant level drop dramatically when it gets it's new coolant and is idling for 15-20 mins? My top hose gets hot but should it feel very firm if it's full of coolant or not? Just not sure where I need to let the temp gauge get to or if it will even go any higher just at idle..

if one clamp and hose were loose, I would be checking them all (im guessing u have already though). My throttle body hose was loose one time and it had issues on boost and starting. Gotta love these cars! Its endless lol

I didnt know u could go bak to stock and keep your tune at same time.. I dont hav a hand controller but I wouldnt risk that anyway lol. Knowing this car, I will change thermostat and it will be the waterpump! Start with cheaper parts and work my way up I guess

thanks Ralph lol. And F1 Performance - I was thinking a better after market thermostat but my tuner today said stick to the identical Ford one.. and I will get a new cap also! The top hose heats up but feels empty, like zero pressure!

sorry, should have worded better. Yes car has been tuned since the dump and cat were changed.. Runs perfectly one day (full power, temp gauge sits at 1/3 and thermo fans never come on).. then overheats next time u start it up and go for a 10 min drive! Maybe the thermostat is not opening up correctly every now and then? Picking up a new one from Ford tomorrow and I'll see it plays up again..

car is tuned. Has been on twice this year.. Thermostat?? car has 145,000kms Coolant is bled, but top hose always gurgles when I turn car off. Wheel nuts.. Hmm never thought of that

Hey, as topic says I'm having VERY random events of my car just over heating for no reason I can diagnose.. I have a new 4" dump & 3" high flow stainless cat with STOCK exhaust from cat back. Last week I returned my car to the exhaust shop where they cut the dump open to inspect their cat and said it was in perfect condition. They then said they put a camera from the rear tip, up the muffler etc and found no blockages! Is it possible that SOMETHING in the cat back pipes is broken and is flapping up and down randomly to cause a flow problem?? When it happens, the car goes quickly up to half on temp gauge, fans go crazy even while driving 10 mins at 100kms on a cold night they do not stop/cool down.. And the car loses alot of power and boosts up to 20psi which it never does unless it's over heating with the problem! It's driving me insane.. It's got perfect coolant levels, I've bled it about 5 times with the cap off from cold start until running temp (no bubbles after the first time). Has anyone had a problem like this and what was the problem? Throw me some ideas too if you think I should should check other possibilities! Cheers

yeh there is plenty of space for a bracket, no worries. I just want it easy to remove if the boost line blows off or watever reason.. Bracket is good option worst case scenario though

XAH03 - Hey mate, are you giving the gauge install a go are you? If so how did you go ? Or you referring to your starter button?

I'm from Picton NSW (50 mins south of Sydney) The FG looks like it would have the space JUST, providing it's an empty space behind it...Looks like it would be difficult to check as there isn't another switch (TC/FOGGIES) next door you can pop out to feel inside

Ebxmple/ShyFrd - I didn't use the mounting bracket at all. The key for my personal install was making the hole absolutely perfect in size (A fraction under sized). It does not move or rattle.. To remove it takes about 30 seconds, but you have to pull on it in sections - Like top, then bottom, side to side and then you can get a decent grip. Trust me when I say it does not require a clip or bracket if you take your time on your hole size I also agree about the hole saw possibly being harsh on the vinyl when trying to grip at first. My 52mm Autometer gauge was from ebay.. I have a matching Voltometer and paid $87 each for them off Ebay.com.au posted from U.S Cheers, Josh

Yeah true mate, but my girlfriend would literally kill me if I tried to sell this car (I've been through a few lol).. And with the work it's had done, it won't be a stocker ever again anyway But yep, I'm digging where the gauge is the more I drive car

A pic of the finished hole -

I'm a fitter by trade so I felt safer with the file lol, plus I don't own one Can't really go wrong with a half round... Plus with a file, you can work your way TO size without maybe being over from the start with a holesaw

XAH03 - Mate It was a tad nerve racking doing a hole that large in my perfect dash lol.. Cheers for the comments everyone, I'm real happy with it And FORD FREAK - I did it today mate

Ok, so not sure if I should be making a new thread for this. But Moderators can cut and paste it if they want to. Mounting boost gauge in FPV starter location: In this case I used a "52mm" boost gauge.. Parts/Tools required - *Gauge & install components *EXTRA power/earth wire *Pencil *Stanley Knife *Scissors *Drill with 2mm drill bit (anything pretty small really) *Smallest flat head screwdriver you can find *Hammer *Half round file *Vacuum Cleaner *Torch *Solder iron *Elec tape *And last but not least - Patience! Firsty, I got all the main work out of the way such as running the boost line through firewall and to the T piece at BOV. Now pop off your TC/Foggy switch with your hand or a flat head driver if stubborn and find your illumination and earth wires. Mine were BROWN (Foggies) and black (TC). Feel free to do your wiring at this point if you please.. While your switches are out of the dash use a torch and your fingers to feel in behind the dash to make sure the space where the gauge is going is empty (BA/BF XR models should be clear). Now this is your last chance to back out.....Otherwise use the rear of your gauge (not the LARGER front facia ring) and place it on the dash where you want it to sit and draw around it with a pencil/marker. If your gauge is like mine and has bolts on the rear and you cannot sit it flush to draw around - Find something around the same size. Smaller the better! Now cut on around the INSIDE of your marked circle with a stanley knife SLOWLY & NEATLY. You don't have to push hard as there is solid plastic behind the foam. Remove the circle/foam you just cut out.. Use your drill and small drill bit to go around the circle and drill as many holes as you can through the plastic really close together. Get a tiny flat head driver and a hammer - Punch through the plastic between holes and it should just fall out. Don't worry if it falls into dash as it falls down into drivers footwell straight away NOWWW comes the messy frustrating part! Use your half round file to file around the inside of hole until it feels smooth and continue to do so while testing your gauge every couple of mins.. You don't want to oversize your hole otherwise you've wasted your time and effort and your gauge won't sit tight and snug! If it starts to feel like your file is rubbing on your dash vinyl too much, stop and use scissors to take extra off around the hole..Little by little - Don't get carried away. When your Gauge feels like it's really close to going through the hole, just file that tiny bit more evenly inside hole and give it another go.. Remember you want to leave the outside vinyl a fraction smaller than the hole you're filing in the plastic so that when you do push gauge in, your front facia ring is covering the hole and looks perfect. If you haven't wired up your gauge, do so now and when your feeding your boost line up from firewall you should keep your TC/FOGGY switch off to use that hole to help you get it up to your new gauge hole. Makes it easier There is not one piece of your dash that needs removing for this install. Just the TC/FOGGY switch and your set! Now when you're happy with your install - GET TO CLEANING lol happy vacuuming. Hopefully I haven't missed anything and you have success if you try this install PICTURES of finished install at top of page Goodluck, Josh!

Phew! haha yeah thanks I like it too. The view angle is really good and nothing is even close to being blocked by the wheel (I still don't understand why Ford didn't put the TC & Fog Light switch there...) If there is enough demand out there, I can jot down some key points about how I did certain parts of the install - Happy to do that Thanks Fella's

Done-ski's! Thanks for the info.. I posted up some pics back on the main Electrical section in a thread called "my gauge mount location" I mounted it a little differently if ppl interested

I decided to mount my boost gauge somewhere a little different..I do have a twin gauge pod but I felt creative today haha.. I realise some people will hate and others might like it like myself.. Let me know what you think Pics below