Gussa

Cheers mate. Hope it helps. And I hope my method is correct too haha.

How to install Autometer gauges to a FG FALCON XR6T Parts: Autometer gauges and components SS inductions FG tripod mount Speco Oil Filter Adapter Potentiometer Fuses 2x Hose clamps Tools and consumables: Additional wire Teflon Tape Electrical tape Solder Soldering Iron Heat Shrink Split tubing Pliers Side Cutters Strippers Shifter (shortened) #NOTE# Not including tools used for Oil filter change and ICC removal Step 1: Install gauges to pod. Instructions provided should point you in the right direction. Brass threads will need to be trimmed to fit the gauges. 5/32 nuts and washers may need to be purchased. Step 2: Remove ICC unit. Instructions for this can be found below: http://www.fordaustr...-a-FG-ICC-unit. Step 3: Install wiring harness for all three gauges. Thread the loom with the gauge connectors first from the passenger side foot-well (triangle panel will need to be pulled off). Follow this path for the loom. Ensure that when the ICC is reinstalled, it will not pinch the cable. Stick adhesive automotive foam to the loom to ensure that not annoying rattles occur. Make sure both ends of each gauge loom is clearly labelled for future reference. Coil excess cable under foot-well. Reinstall ICC unit and replace top facia with SS inductions facia + gauges. Step 4: Pressure and Temperature: Install senders. Oil pressure and temperature will require an oil and oil filter change. This is done so that the Speco Oil Filter adapter can be installed. Instructions provided detail the order of components. A guide to changing your oil can be found below: http://www.fordxr6tu...-filter-in-a-t/ Simply screw the senders into the adapter. Use Teflon tape to exact a good seal. Do not over tighten. Threads on senders are easily cross threaded Boost: In regards to the boost sender, cable tie the unit to a cable loom or support. Make sure that the sender is facing down. Be sure to read the included directions. Connect the sender to the VAC line that comes from the BOV. This is done by cutting the VAC line and installing the provided t-piece. If you are finding it difficult to insert the T-piece into the Ford VAC line, dip the line into a cup of boiling water to soften the plastic. Be sure to secure the connection with two hose clamps (to fit 6mm aprox). Step 5: Cut the connections to the gauges in the foot-well but leave about 15mm from each plug. This is done because the plugs will never be able to fit through the grommet. Instead, solder some extra cable to the plugs (use heatshrink for insulation) and thread through the grommet. Do this for all connections. Then, once you have decided on the correct length of cable to be run from the grommet to the sender, plug it in and start neatening it up with split tubing and cable ties. Step 6: All that is left is the connections in the passenger foot-well. This simply involves connecting all the sender extension cables to their respective gauge wires, and connecting the power and lighting circuits. Below is a rough schematic of what the circuit needs to achieve. I personally made a small Jiffy box set-up to house all of the lighting and power circuit. It also supports the potentiometer and fuses. Each of the gauges incoming supplies should be fused (as per instructions) with a 1A fuse. When making the connections it is important to leave the fuses out. This will ensure that there are no stray voltages reaching the gauges prematurely. Finish: There you have it, all done. Now just examine your good work and see how it runs. The potentiometer if you haven't figured it out is to match the lights to your dash, just turn it until you hit the right spot. Good luck. #NOTES# Currently I am investigating a better power source. I used the Cigarette lighter supply but it appear that it cuts out during start-up thus interrupting the calibration process. I also will advise that undertaking this work is at your own risk! Thanks, Gus.

Used the following adapter from repco - seems to have done the job. $50 plus freight. All in all it went ok. I personally thought the colours would be a lot closer to the Ford dash (pictures don't show differences), but I can live with it. I just wanted to ask a couple of questions: 1) The instructions say that during the start up process, the gauges will calibrate, but I have found that since the gauges are connected to the +12v cigarette supply, during start up the supply is broken and interrupts the calibration (I assume this is the same problem when the radio cuts out when changing from accessories to turning the engine on). SO, is there an easily obtained power supply that stays on during starting? 2) Perhaps this is related to the above calibration being interrupted, but I have found the boost gauge almost always reads 5-10 vacuum unless it is boosting. Is this normal? 3) When the ignition is turned off, all gauges stay in the position they were last reading instead of returning to "0" or their stoppers. Is this normal? Much appreciated if anyone seeing the same problems could give me a push in the right direction. Other than this, very pleased with the result! If anyone has any queries about install I can try to answer them

Mate, just test drive both cars. Some owners worship their cars till 200,000klm. Some owners flog it out by 50,000klm. You will only know after you have tried it. And if your still unsure, invest in an RACV test or similar to put your mind at ease. Can be the best $150 you spend.

Easy test - Try changing at higher revs. I'm talking above 3,000rpm. Works for me. If you have the same problem as me, I find it worse when it is cold and the first change.

Sorry sorry my bad. Came standard with SENSORS, no camera.

I do have premo. All 50ths came with Premo... but Utes didn't come with reversing cameras ... I don't get it. That's why I am wondering if the ICC's have an input and I'll install my own :sungum:

Does it display through the ICC screen? Or do they give you another screen? The only one I can find is this (2nd last listing on that page): http://www.ford.com....apper&site=FOA# If this is the one you have (mounted to a mirror), can you please post up a pic, I am interested in seeing what they look like. Cheers.

I had a search and can't back up my input. But I do believe it is legit. I think its for cops to give them a benchmark (they don't all carry around sound level meters so its easier to look underneath and count to 2). Similar to a certain height of lowered cars? Having said this though, I still intend to do it.

Must have minimum of two mufflers in VIC at least I think.

That poor car :-(

Haha I noticed this too. My knees keep hitting the flip key. Very annoying. I'm only 5' 11"

I'm 22 and I think a Ute is a good choice for a young bloke. Seat for the Missus and the dog.... I'll let you decide who goes where. As for the price, I think you can only tell when you test drive the car. The tune will either be a plus or a BIG minus. Test drive it and pay accordingly.

:stupid2: So many people tell me "oh I wanted it in black but I got a good price on this colour" or "I was going to get the next model but I didn't have the cash" Just save up the extra dosh and get what you want (I know you want the car ASAP but...) and I can guarantee that it will pay off. You will probably even find that when you have saved the extra, the perfect car is sitting there on carsales. If I was you, I would also make a decision between a Ute or a sedan. Big lifestyle differences imho.

Both subs have their own Line Level Converters in them. All I did was piggyback off both of the rear speakers (Could use one speaker but I thought that any RHS bass might be missed) In the second image you can see a black box called a "Jiffy" box. I put all the connections in there (to keep it neat) and the power block that steps down from the 8AWG to something manageable. All you need to run from the front is the power cable (battery +'ve) and the remote (cig lighter +'ve) The Negative goes to the seat bolt.

Make that 8" 55WRMS Dual Coils. *****

Whole set-up cost me a tad over $250 - Installed myself. They are not the loudest subs, but it fills the gap that the Xr6t "premium sound" lacks. Both subs are Active 10" with 55WRMS Dual coils in each. These enclosures are also built pretty tough and have plastic covers to protect the dials allowing cargo to be stored on top. A good solution if you are worried about compromising your space. Install was straight forward - the only modification I had to make was to put a spacer in behind the foam Jack holder to allow the right one to fit. I then bought another tensioner bolt as the original didn't have the length.

Is there a video input in the back of the ICC or something? The only reversing camera option I got from the dealer was another screen (similar to a GPS) mounted to the window - wasn't too keen on that idea.

I chucked 2 10" slim subs in the back of mine - much better. The spits / door speakers aren't too bad - Just lacks all bass from the rear. Much better now - set me back about $220. Should not be given the title: "Premium"

I get the same thing too man. I find that higher revs when changing really helps. I also found out (when I questioned the dealer as to why the clunking happens) that is be because the box installed is out of some kind of light transit truck - loud as hell but near unbreakable. That info helped me a bit too knowing that its just tuff. To sum it up - You don't have a lemon.

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm Use the calculator - Volume is very important

May need a location at least man..

I had the same realization my friend. Only option is the Y-piece I think. I just hope it won't whistle with that sharp edge inside where the two pipes join.

I recently got quoted 3100 for an EGR winter white PowerBuldge hard lid with remote locking and fitting included.