dingah2

Just got the car back having all but finished the suspension mods. Chris at In-Line steering Queanbeyan did the work - cannot recommend him too highly - one look over the vehicles parked there will explain his abilities. Added to this are a new set of 18s shod with PP2s all round. Billsteins all round, Kings SLs, 30mm swaybar, new bushing and alignments - rides beautifully, only about 10mm lower, turn in and steering is very sharp and resonsivie and corners like it's on rails. Highly recommended set-up. Just waiting for Glen at ESP to fit the larger rear rotors and calipers next week and it will all be complete. Dingah

Billsteins all round, King springs and Whitleine swaybar - firm, straight and smooth. Dingah

With regard to your legality question - the only way is to sight the policy legislation yourself as there are many contradictory opinions around. My understanding is that 'legal' is up to 2 inches over standard. The standard for an XR6T is 17, thus 19 would appear to be a safe limit - the cost of decent tyres once you get this large mitigates too. I found 18s to provide the best balance between size and affordable decent rubber - using Michy PP2s in 18s at $350 a corner. Good luck, Dingah

.....provided they are not the Chinese manufactured version. So nearly ended up with a set after driving your T Buggy but was warned off all but the European sourced Goodyear by others. Michy PP2s are $350 a corner in 235x40x18 at Woden Tyre and Exhaust. Dingah

In Canberra Michelin PP2 in 18s $350 each corner. Dingah

Whenever possible I parallel park on street which generally obviates the door bangers, the tow-bar at the back protects my arse (and regularly modifies my shins) leaving only a front bumper job as the worry option. In car parks I avoid two door cars as, although generally smaller, those are long doors that need to open a long way to let out rear seat passengers - good luck if your car is next to that door. Dingah

How much folding stuff for rear BF/Territory callipers and rotors? Dingah PS You are spot on Buggy - only interested as they are BF OEM fit.....and need bigger rotor under bigger rims.......!?

You cannot change or alter as many parameters with a ship as you can by modifying the actual PCM's software. However, if you do no know exactly what you are doing you can also introduce interesting features in the software without realising whereas the chip leaves the PCM software untouched and only bends or alters slected signals coming into the PCM. You can do more with Edit but if you are driving a manual and are happy with about 280RWKW it will do the trick. Dingah PS I have been both ways - and don't misinterpret that message either!!

OK I'll answer your question.....somewhere in the range between 270 and 280RWKW depending on how well your tuner can handle the odd characteristics of the APS injectors. Dingah

Can a pair of Territory rear brake callipers be fitted easily to a BA Mk1?......of course the rotors would also be changed! Dingah

This is an excellent forum - and welcome. First read this - Cobra Stage 2 - A Sting in this Tale! The purpose of putting all of that in the forum was for the likes of you buddy. There is a plethora (lot) of information here and good search tools. You will get short-changed by folk if you just throw on huge questions to which there is no answer and likely a lot of debate ensues as it has all be discussed before - and many times and some readers will get the impression that you are just too lazy to find out for yourself. The hardest question you have to ask yourself is what the Hell do I want? The answer is NEVER simply Edit. Edit will spawn a huge range of options that you will have to consider, ie do I just use the generic tunes that come with the box or custom tuned?...who is a trusted and capable tuner?.....should I upgrade the fuel system, intake plumbing, intercooler?....are the brakes and driveline capable of handling this power and torque now?......do I want to put new wheels on...what size is legal, can afford decent rubber for them?....suspension, dampers, sway bar.......? the list is endless but the questions and solution are and must be all interconnected. Do you want better acceleration, fuel consumption, a ricey bling mobile, a strip racer, street car. Then what are the key characteristics that you want to address - driveline, (wheels, brakes) or engine (edit, intake, exhaust, injectors, intercooling, bottom end, top end). There are a lot of so-called solutions out there that are crap and are designed to catch the young and unwary - do your research and then ask more specific questions and you'll get plenty of advice - the challenge then is to sift and sort as to who's responses you trust and believe and which are those that you dismiss. Like all forums we have our armchair legends and some darned insightful and technically competent folk too. If you have the time, patience and wisdom (and the latter can come from this information-rich medium) work out a project timeline with a progressive mod state , dollars and time against it FIRST (of course, like everyone else you wont, you'll want it all now). If you can do that and save for a couple of months and then get an integrated solution from one the recognised tuning hosues you will save yourself thousands and thousands of dollars. Dingah

Stang: THey are made by QFM but are marketed through Race Brakes (Melbourne) and their number is RB74.THey are a relatively hard, comp spec pad but with sufficient cold bite to make them usable on the street as well as the track and therein very fade resistant. Dingah

The only QFM pad I'd recommend is the RaceBrakes RB74 - currently using them with PBR perfomrance upgrade package and used them before with DBA 4000 slotted. They are a competition pad which is brilliantly fade-free under the harshest braking. Lmited dust but might be harder than standards on your rotors but for Christ's sake do you want brakes that work or just look nice?! Dingah

About $200 each for front DBA 4000 slotted, premo sized. Dingah

Ultimates are a great balance between heat resistance and cold bite. They are not that harsh on rotors, but like any decent pads will give you plenty of dust. But, hey waht's the issue here - decent brakes or asthetics? QFM are ok but you pay peanuts - expect monkeys and what price do you put on your brakes? The only QFM product I would recommend are the RaceBrakes RB74 which are serious pads. Extremely high temp ratd, fade free, a little harsh on the rotors but capable of sustaining repeated deeeeep braking and $160 a pair for front pads (Premium Brake size). Match these to DBA 4000 slotted rotors and braided lines and you have a very good package. Dingah

Three batteries replaced under warranty over the three years life of the car. Get the current drain checked when car shut down and alarm on/off, door ajar eetc. I found the figures to be alarmingly high if something was left unlocked. Dingah

....agree, but these sort of threads almost always end up in A versus B versus C most of which is opinion and therein bereft of factual argument. Further, as a mono-dimensional medium, e-correspondence has a propensity to be hastily written and hastily read and possibly not understood; therein, some folk can take exception or offense when it is not intended. I believe that it is not good practice to be openly discussing others' prices and issues on the forum as there may well be other factors as play which are not our business; so, unlesss they wish that to be the case, offering the option of continuing the sort of question and answer I need via PM has been floated. Now the person concerned may or may not wish to follow up via forum or PM and then that is their call and they are now under no pressure and no silliness or ill-feeling emanates from this question. Cheers, Dingah

DaltsL: Who did the work on your trannie - care to PM me the detials, costs and thoughts on the outcome etc. Best kept off the forum due likelihood of hijacking by opinionated legends that stalk the dark annals of this prestigious forum!. Cheers, Dingah

There's little point worrying about what you cannot change or control :wacko: - a well tuned XR6T does a mighty good job of turning hydrocarbons into happiness. If I am using 3 litres/100km more fuel than the dull boring untuned version it costs me 450 litres more fuel a year (I average 15000km a year) or about $600 a year in extra fuel consumed for that pleasure. That is a measley $12/week or two schooners/week at a City pub. Happy?.....you betcha! Dingah

Right on the money young fellah! Dingah

I have some local experience of these and only a Boxter S should provide any degree of challenge and even then - on the straight bits you should be able to pull him off. Bends or above 200kph the Porsche will show its pedigree. Great little cars the emphasis being on little - room enough for a toothbrush but a great chassis. Dingah

Jimmy: hmmm....so is that a good thing...is it running at optimum temp?....mine has never, despite all the mod states it has been through and now at Cobra 2 been other than a tad short of the 12 o'clock position and whenleft to soak after a run and re-starting - alittle over and then pulls back to that figure. Colder weather in Canberra autumn and winter would see it witha small increment short of 12 o'clock position. That was also consistent across two diffrent radiators. As I think Ninka or Tab stated, assuming hte thermostat to be either open or closed and not able to progressively reach an intermediate position, once the thermo is open, your running temp is a function of the capacity of your radiator to exchange or dispense heat. Dingah

The risk taken on by the insurer and therfore the premium paid is based upon the highest risk driver who regularly drives the vehicle. So your parent's premium should rise significantlyIf you are the regular driver together with the imposition of a fairly significant excess should you be at the wheel. THe notion of you being a registered owner of a vehicle and therefore having the third party property aspect of your insurance in your name and the remaining insurance risk in another appears at odds with logic. I wold strongly encourage you to put the whole thing in writing to your insurers and get written confirmation. The courts' records are littered with those who assumed cover until the event and then found that there was none and in the event of a public liability claim causing injury or at worse death to another the costs against you would be too large to countenance. Check, check and re-check - I have taken three children (now adults) through the driving insurance thing and have always come back to the registered owner, regular driver and insured being the same. Sadly too many of your generation appear to be all about knowing and demanding their rights without any apparent concern for the accepting the responsibilities of life that go with them. Dingah

No Tab - the other way round if anything at all. Dingah

The costs of the insurance reflects the risk that you pose to the rest of the community as an 18 year old P plater - it is a disincentive to misbehave in a vehicle which is hardly the territory of someone of your emotional intelligence. Sorry if this sounds unsympathetic but it is - why on Earth would you commit to purchase a vehicle clearly unsuited to your age and experience demographic without first considering how you'd insure the vehicel adequately. This could all point to the lack of maturity that the insurance company's worry about. Dingah