SydCrazi

Hi guys, Just wanted to see ideas before going to tuner. G6E. Car runs around 21psi. Wastegate spring 12-13psi. Car now won't boost past 13psi? Could it be wastegate? Or failed turbo? Would a failing turbo consistently only go to a certain boost? Or would it be different, what things am I looking for, just trying to determine which I think it might be? Thanks!

Thanks @Puffwagon

OK I think I get it. Lowering boost does f#ck all, as it is tuned for 12psi, so turning it down via an aftermarket electronic boost controller won't do anything but lower boost, but fuel would still be pumping in as if it was tuned for 12psi and you turned it down to 7psi the level of the wastegate actuator spring setting.. So nothing happens except less power, no improved economy, you run rich.. So what's the point of a boost controller then, no good for xcal 4s, need some computer to go with it that changes fuel maps as you change boost?

OK I'm willing to learn. I had it in mind it didn't matter as foundationally the rules are constant.. Stock ecu, xcal x4, mods as I listed, then all I wanted to know was if I turned boost down from the tuned boost, would the computer know, and compensate, or if you want to run 7psi as opposed to 12psi you'd need a different tune on your xcal for the lower boost... Or just lower it with a controller.. I do know mathematically you'll use less fuel if you have less kW.. So lower boost = less kW which = less fuel.. But I don't know if just turning it down if everything else just works..

Well the mods are not important. If you have modified your car a lot or a little, the foundational principles remain the same as per my question.. For arguments sake, high flow cat, intercooler, injectors etc.. But the foundational question remains? (I've had two tunes on my xcal, one high one low boost, I could get twice the distance on low boost tune, even if I tried hard to not use much throttle on high boost... So.. This brings me to my original question)

Howdy all, I've received different responses from different people, so thought I'd ask the question here: You get your car tuned. You have an electronic boost controller installed. Now obviously going more boost than tuned is bad. But say you use that controller to lower boost. It's all about afr ratio I'm led to believe. So if you lower boost with controller, is fuel just pumping in as per tune, or does it all symmetrically lower via ecu correction or whatever? Thus the lower boost setting would be more fuel efficient as less fuel required.

Hi guys - Looking for recomendations to get this core replaced. Im in Sydney. I contacted hypergear via email. Called GCG - Quoted $1495 to replace core! ..and told that rear housing might be cracked and if it was, new turbo which he sold for a gazillion dollars. A shout out to @JETURBO as someone mentioned you for parts, after a GT3576R core? Anyone else got a good experience somewhere in Sydney for core replacement at good price? Thanks...

Hi everyone. @Puffwagon and @k31th thanks for the info guys, appreciate it. I didn't think of a core replacement. I think I'll replace core. Get wastegate mod (port/flap) to my existing turbo. Whack on the bigger injectors, better actuator that tuner can set to what he thinks best, bigger bolt on cooler and retune for hopefully 320. I get my 300 wish and expense kept low no mods required. Winner winner chicken dinner. So around 700 for a core replacement?

@Puffwagon Well the housing seems fine. It's got nothing down low, boggy slug, and seems to boost up top but still isn't right. Car sort of sounds tinny under load, so I've been driving like grandma. When you turn the car off you can hear turbo quite loudly turning for ages like ball bearings rolling down a gutter sound. Mechanic/tuner told me, I quote 'turbos I <3 Bananased, it'll collapse on you maybe tomorrow, maybe 12 months, who knows' Car (G6E) has high flow cat, process West intake with muffler delete and tune with close to 300rwkw. I like the factory hybrid turbo for that instant low down quick power. My thinking was it was the Inlet housing AR that was responsible for this with that smaller wheel they talk about. So if replacing turbo, I thought well why not get a pinch bigger, only a pinch, to keep that factory instant pep, throw on some injectors and bigger cooler and get a pinch more power and join the 300 club.. But I want to keep costs down, so want BOLT ON turbo... Not sure what to do here.. ?

@Puffwagon thanks, informative. Ok so I'm convinced to leave the .50 factory AR and skip the .63 and go to .83 based on the technical stuff you just said. Yes 850ish Aud. Car already tuned with a few things. Bigger cooler, 1000cc injectors, maybe adjustable mamba actuator, is all I'll be adding with whatever frigging turbo I can find that bolts on, that's just a pinch better than stock,,, then tuning again to suit. When you say go for genuine chra, just look for GT3576R chra on ebay?

Hi mate. If you scroll to the bottom, you'll see option three is 3" 4 bolt with .63 AR. Everything comes from China lol. Existing turbo needs replacing.

OK think I've found one that's a little better than stock and bolts straight on. Option 3, 0.62 AR I'd go for.. So lemme know if it won't go straight on please because of something not matching.. https://m.alibaba.com/product/60755289529/GTX3576R-GT3576R-Turbo-charger-Dual-Ceramic.html?s=p&spm=a2706.7843299.1998817009.18.1c8f5075EUn95h#show_specifications

Mate one last question. Why does V-Band not match, what is it? All the GTX3576R on ebay say V-Band.

Thanks @k31th :-)

Hi guys. A bit technically challenged understanding all the numbers on the factory turbo. Want a direct bolt on replacement so need ALL the specs to understand. Inlet/Outlet mm, flange type, why some 3576R are 4 or 3 inch, what does T3 mean and does moving to .61 AR make a massive difference to the pep the factory one has? And lastly moving to ball bearing over journal bearing, is this a spool up thing? Some potentials below, but really want those FULL specs please? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153213600339 MERTOP T3 Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbocharger GT35 GTX3584R Universal Performance Billet Compressor Wheel TURBO 400-750HP https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Bwh28iM

Hi Guys, Not a forum organised event, I'm just shouting out in case anyone didn't know it was on. Central Coast Cars and Coffee event tomorrow on Sunday. FREE. I'll most likely be checking it out, swinging past. Only need $ for food and coffee I'll be on the CB if anyone wants to say G'day. Channel... 18. https://www.facebook.com/cccarsandcoffee/ If your thinking of passing through, give me a yell :-)

Hey guys, Lets make sure Ford is represented well! FREE event guys and gals! Only need $ for food vendors and coffee Come along, I'll be there. Who's coming? Event Info

Trent from Punchy!! Raced im the otha day ay, full sick, full rotor pinging off its head man, revs off its chops.. Fully smashed im but.. Lol.. [emoji23] Anyways, dunno, something bout this photo looks dodgy [emoji12] New turbo anyone, I swear it fell off the back of a truck...

I'm super impressed with the pads I've got put in. 50-700 degree operating temp, grab smooth and strong, marked improvement over stock, particularly from higher speeds. Intima SR pads. Aussie made. http://www.intima.net.au/sr_pads.php Oh and they'll work great with slotted rotors if you do decide to upgrade those at some point. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Wow, nice photo, looks like a little fun.. A few snaps from today, here's one, find the photo bomber.. [emoji12]

Hey guys, I got a spare seat possibly. All my pussy whipped friends can't make it now.. Flying solo, but offering a seat to a chilled out Ford lover.. Even cracked out the handheld CBs to bring along.. Anyway let me know.. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Hi guys, Saw Spiro. He drove. Turns out what I originally described was the problem, felt like some plugs yanked out under acceleration. He replaced plugs and shaweeet as again Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Huh, didn't think of that.. Hmm.. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Haha.. Yeah true [emoji23] I made an edit to mention it still happens with tc off.. [emoji20]

Hey guys, Loving the new power and car, a new beast to drive, honestly a little to much of my teenage self has come out 'testing' it everywhere.. Haha.. I generally just floor it to the limit... Anyway, today, first weird problem.. My traction control seems to be uneserilly kicking in.. On full throttle particularly as the revs go above 3000.. The car stutters, feels and sounds like someone has yanked a plug or two out, sucks balls.. I'm concentrating, but I swear my eye is catching the light of traction control.. This is even from 100kph in the higher gears.. Any thoughts?? I'll contact Spiro, but wanted to check with the 'gang' so to speak.. Also, New Pirelli, so grip is not issue, particularly at the higher speeds Oh and I've tried with it completely off, no different, same problem.