MY ROD GOT OUT

Get rid of it mate, just there to be a pure pain in the ass.....

How's your battery??

Did brake booster checks and all seems fine. Sooo strange, to drop that amount of hg would have to mean a pretty serious leak. Don't know what else to look at.

So not fuel reg, and definitely can't find any vac leaks. Put a manual vac gauge on and car sits steady at 14hg vac. Doesn't fluctuate at all which points to timing issue?? Would it have anything to do with the cam solenoids maybe not working properly at idle?? They can gum up apparently and cause issues. I'm stumped.

That's next, forgot to pull off vac hose while its running to see if its leaking fuel. Seems to overfuel on all injectors though as there is fuel/oil build up in each runner. I'm assuming something is telling PCM to add more fuel at idle. No codes (haven't tried ford though to see if they find codes on their system).

So still no luck with idle fix, not changing cams to bf just yet until I cover all other bases first. Pulled intake apart tonight and pulled fuel rail off to ensure gaskets etc are all good. Attached is a pic of inlet manifold connected with injector removed. Does all look good?? I'm just a little worried as a small part of the block covers the injector hole. Doubt it would make a big difference as they are all the same but thought I'd check.

Was it a genuine coil u put in??

How old are your coils and sparkplugs??

Engine mount sounds pretty legit, unsure y u lose power at 100km though

Maybe try unplugging wiring looms etc and plugging back in, maybe connector to ecu is a bit loose.... But yeh don't have an auto so can give much more advice really. The lean code and wastegate code etc would be related to car being in limp mode I'd assume. Are u sure u weren't giving car a flogging?! what's car doing now after codes have been cleared??

Battery prob isn't the cause mate, just checked mine again and yep when cranked goes to around 10 then kicks back up.

Did u test it under load? ie have multi meter attached and get someone to start car, if volts drop below 10 ( think its 10 on these cars) u may have a battery issue.

Ah ok cool, I'm guessing my xcal 2 can't do that then... Good!!! Haha wouldn't have a clue on what to change anyway. Awesome effort again mate, would be very interesting to see how much more power,torque etc it would make with a custom tune.

Amazing to see a generic tune performing so well, like in your previous posts u are one in a million!!! Well done mate, do u have the sct software to change tune setup??

Thanks mate, yep hopefully interview goes well, was over 400 people at the test so hope not so many for the interviews haha

Ok cool, figured as much but wanna make sure I'm well prepared so I get the job.

Ok so bit of an update, thanks to the help of everyone here I have been applying for an adult apprenticeship. After a bit of applying I have been picked by energex to have an interview. 1st step was an online quiz, then got to do an aptitude test and obviously did well as I have an interview at the end of the month. My question is, has anyone done an interview with energex? Or similar company and what questions did they ask, also did they make u do any "hands on" work In front of them??? Thanks again.

Edit: sorry just saw "bf mk11 gear box"

My 2006 (02/06) bf went bang with approx 18psi behind her and with only 70,000kms as well, so low k's mean nothing as unless the car is post 06/06 u still have a ba bottom end which are weak. In saying that some engines have heaps more k's and run 20psi and still holding fine. Soooo many factors to look at. Hopefully it's post 06/06 for your sake

Try searching forum prior to posting mate as u will cop alot of ^^ otherwise. Hold button down for a few seconds and traction control light will turn on. Sounds like a good deal, just don't mod it as the 4sp auto doesn't like too much power. Once again search is your friend .

Unfortunately never got to here it run as was removed from a car wreck prior to me buying. So to hard to tell but has perfect compression and leak tested and all good. Also have had sump off and everything looks brand new along with no wear on cams etc.Guy I bought it off said it was run on e85 for a while prior to crash and had 38000km on the clock (saw a speedo but pics don't mean much I guess). Car boosts great its just the idle, vac sits at 14hg at idle which indicates valve timing. Timing has been checked and is all good. Sooo we have to assume its the cams mixed with the bf inlet manifold. If I change back to bf cams in theory everything should work fine. Problem is I don't no of any full long motor fgs in bfs to compare to.

Haha yep same injectors, had them serviced and flow tested as well after the swap. Was thinking I may have put inlet manifold gasket on wrong way but no leaks and seems fine... Just strange why these "duo phase" cams aren't liking the bf manifold.

That speed density etc?? If so yep.... Instant fuel sits at 3lt and managed to get it back down to 1.8lt but it maxed out ltft to do so. And still lumpy idle was present so not a fix as such.

Yep but changed values to suit fg cams and didn't fix it. Figure it's something to do with standard ba/bf inlet manifold and the fg cams, maybe a plazmaman plenum or fg would fix but not sure

Did leak down test (all good) and spent half the day trying different tune setups to get it to idle and got no where!!! Even chucked in a complete fg tune and still chewing fuel at idle. Going to have to put my bf cams in and see if this fixes the issue. Any other ideas guru tuners out there??