Max Power

If Ford have upgraded youre factory tune then you'll lose it when you put one of your generic tunes back in and then the factory tune. You see the factory slot is empty when you 1st get it and only saves the tune in there once when you install the generic tune. So what youre doing is clobbering the new factory tune with the old one. Ford will then know that you have edit. Id advise that you send the box back to capa and ask them to unlock it which will then allow you to capture the new factory tune in the capa box. Confused?

Did you at least keep my brakes? I'll buy them back.

Use the forum's search function.

When you 1st upload a tune from the capa box, it stores your factory tune in the F slot and it does this once and once only. When you flash your F tune back in to take the car to Ford for a service, an outstanding TSB on the factory tune is applied (I believe its a cure for an overboost problem). This new factory tune has a different version number (just like a Windows upgrade). The details are stored on the Ford database. You then go home and flash your custom tune back in and when you next flash the factory tune back in, you flash the old factory tune pre the TSB. When you take the car in for a driveline warranty claim, the Ford investigators cross check the tune versions on the car and on their database. If they dont match then they know that you have a capa flasher. A fix for this is; a) to not have this or any future tune TSBs applied by knowing your Ford service guy or b) flash in the factory tune before a service and send the capa box back to Capa to unlock it. After the service and when you get the box back and install your custom tune, your new factory tune will be stored in the F slot. This can only be done 5 times by Capa but by that point, your car will probably be out of warranty anyway. The only down side to option b) is that Capa will be able to see your tuner's custom tunes.

Hi all. As a spin off from built2redline's thread re his recent mishap, I want to get a definitive answer as to whether the BF turbo bottom end is the same as the Typhoon's and therefore has the bigger rods. Also read in the 248kw... thread that the part numbers for the BF turbo and Typhoon are the same. So who can quash the theorists and answer this one once and for all?

I think something sounds wrong here; only 248kw for a custom tune. A bit on the low side. Is that with the 968's that you have? Did you see your afr's? Were you running 98 ron at the time? Oh and dont forget to change your handle as it clearly isnt. Sorry - couldnt resist.

Youre a funny guy Jeff ← I tried for ya Arthur By the way you coming out on friday? ← I'm coming. I'm home on fridays so come past on your way through.

Youre a funny guy Jeff

I employ the 10% rule for example; capa edit = $100, custom tune = $40, injectors = $60, etc. (she's been giving me guff about her clothes for years)

Here's some free advice; If the whine is only at night then try not dimming the dashboard lights. It worked for me when I added amps so perhaps the same thing happens with ipods

Ive learnt not to believe GT owners that tell you that theyre out of gas

There's only about 40 going so 1 will be enough

Its not that bad at the right ratio. Just dont leave that to Marcus as he's no barman.

Hey Cro. Now that I know Marcus is coming with the Stroh, you better put me down as attending.

Its a sore point with Jeff. His dud pump ended up costing him a new bottom end.

NO! What have you done Cro? Someone call the doctor as Cro is running a fever. Im dreaming arent I???

that's because youre the only one with the 5watt. Everyone else has the 1/2watt

Got some 275 Kuhmo SPTs to replace the 275 Toyos today. The footprint of the Kuhmos is wider than the Toyos (go figure) hence the Kuhmo is now looking like rubbing on the wheel arch if there's any weight in the back. I guess this means that putting the original springs back in is a necessity unless I roll the lip. Anyone else (other than DBOSS) with any tips on reinstalling the OEM springs?

Currently, Ive got lowered king springs installed however I want to reinstall the standard rear springs to satisfy a theory I have regarding shudder and tramping. I watched the guy who installed the front and rear lowered king springs and the rears were very easy; the bottom shock bolt was removed and then the suspension travel can be levered to make enough room to pry the original spring out. The lowered spring was then installed and that was even easier as the lowered king spring was, of course, shorter. I tried to do the same to install the original spring but as its taller than the lowered one, there wasnt enough room. Do I need to compress the spring using those clamp thingamyjigs or is there another way? Was gonna try removing that lower control arm horizontal bolt near the brake but Id thought Id ask here 1st for some good advise Regards, Arthur

Youre obviously rapped at the new shocks but didnt you consider also changing the springs while you were at it as well?

The view is blurry. Probably a good thing as it hides how old she really is. No wonder the last hanky came out dry

Congratulations Jim. Great result. Now for some low 11's with some M/Ts. Tunehouse have proven themselves by getting great results on the board

There's a 80% + chance it'll be the drivers side as they go more than the left ones

Im devastated. What a loss. What an inspiration he was. I remember waking up early on all those Bathurst Sundays in the 80s to go to a mates place to watch him tame the mountain. There was no one better than him. RIP Brocky from your biggest fan. You'll be sadly and greatly missed.

I know that the fastest manual T is a ute but what is the fastest manual T sedan?