Nolz

Is the new batch of cast elbows available yet?....It's the missing piece in my cars intercooling puzzle.

What he said = )

For those that are knocking the product, on what basis do you make your judgement? Given it is at a forum discount which includes free shipping. How is any other company's product so much better? Every time it gets mentioned you get a bunch of people tell you to spend your money elsewhere but to me it sounds to be a dirty unsubstantiated rumour. *puts on flame suit* I'm not after a forum fight, it just seems unfair and I'd like to know why there's so much negativity directed towards the product.

That's a thought! However mine is a self shifter so perhaps not?

I have it when I am crawling up a hill. I too would like to know what it is so I can perhaps squeeze it in for a warranty job before it expires. Obvously something with the drive shaft...but what? At least I can replicate it....just find me a hill to slowly drive up, and clunk clunk clunk with every revoution of the shaft, so it would seem.

Certainly a lot more realistic and affordable. Thanks for putting an alternative up on the market.

Interesting results. I just replaced my OEM tyres on my FG T ute. They had over 40,000km's on them and that included a track morning (3 sessions) at wakefield and lots of post tune 2nd gear wheel spin. For familiarisation purposes of course. They were still comfortably rego worthy but I replaced them as I had a torn side wall whilst at the track. I enjoy my corners too! I generally keep them at 40psi, and rotate them with every service (6 months or so). Certainly was a pleasant suprise to get that sort of milage out of stock tyres!

I have the one in Pic A (sorry for the delay) I get no flutter at all. I did initially (once it had settled in and loosened up) have an issue with the piston not closing entirely on idle. I changed the spring out to the "pink" spring and now theres no issue at all. I've never had any flutter however and the adjustment of the the BOV varies the length of the psssht. Not a hint of flutter to be heard.

Had my ute pinging after some bad fuel at a local, and that was supposedly '98 octane'(Shell Thornleigh South bound). Funnily, my tuner asked what I had filled it up with as soon as backed it up on the dyno. That same week my uncle had an error code on his Lexus IS250 and Lexus told him that he had put in some bad fuel. Turns out that we had visited the same servo that week. Must have been a REAL dodgey batch! Haven't been back since! Unfortunately the Ute had nothing to say as far as warnings....just a noticable knock at idle....didn't notice it at all when moving however my tuner did luckily.

Just a follow up on what I've done.....The hose clamp around the hand brake cables seems to have remedied the situation 100%, in my case at least. Worth a look into as it seems to be quite common issue, and a fix which is just as easy. Personally I wouldn't waste my time with FRAUD and would reccomend you shimmy underneath and have a good look first, just to see if you can't deal with it yourself.

Picked up my 2010 model Kompact dual port (25mm) took me all of 10 minutes to remove the standard bov and install this little gem. I couldn't find any sponsors that had this one so relutantly I hit up autobarn. Took 2.5 weeks for them to get it in and set me back $250. NOW....I was a little confused when I first started looking into these as it appears that the 2010 has quite a few changes. It looks different for starters. You are given a block off plate which allows you to either block off trumpet side to make it plumback 100% and with that same block off plate you can chose to close up the plumb back vent and have it vent entirely to the atmosphere. I love it! On an auto, when driven in traffic and cruising it can be dead silent if you chose to drive it so. Closing the throttle whilst on boost will have it sounding anywhere from a queef to a massive ppssssshhhhhhh how it sounds will depend entirely on how YOU drive it. I've got it 2 winds back from full 'hard' and love it. No problems with idling or anything of that nature.

My post in the 300kw club section I've since changed to a 3.5" single from Sureflo It's a heap quieter and has NO DRONE. (from the 3" that a local put on. Was a mistake as wasn't offered the advice I needed, and I took the word of the shop as opposed to what was offered here. I originally only wanted a bit of noise but it quickly spiralled out of control ) Had it retuned last week and I've dropped a few peak kw however gained a sh*teload more usable torque ...EVERYWHERE

I live nearish you and make the trip down to Autotech in Granville....don't let its location put you off, its worth the drive! There are a few tuners up our way however after speaking to a few people and experiencing the service at Autotech I don't feel the need to go anywhere else, it's not uncommon to experience what you are after a new set of injectors and in fact I had it too. It was quickly tended to and now it's happy times! Nolz.

I have that problem sometimes, it depends on which pump I get which determines how often it clicks...if at all. I just keep filling and move the nozzle around a bit if it clicks continually. I know it's REALLY full when it clicks and I get a bit of a petrol spray back out. Just a bit of a spray, doesn't quite flood back out. My fuel gauge however reads properly. I think the continual clicking may be a result of the petrols pipe design however you get used to working around it. Í'm not exactly sure how many kays I get before it moves however it drops consistently through out the tank.

Great job! That option "puddle lights" was an option on my previous car (E87 120i) and it cost me a small fortune. You've done almost the same thing for a minute fraction of the cost. Does the light extend to the floor leading up to the door? That's what the intended purpose of the lights on the bimmer. So you don't step in a pile/puddle before entering the car. Good job!

I think I know what the problem is....well what it is in my case. I had a similar rattle too as described by most of the guys here. With the stock exhaust, my first aftermarket exhaust and just recently, with my second afer market exhaust. With the latest change in the system it got worse. I eventually got under the car as I was able to replicate the noise by shaking the exhaust tips (obviously when it happens with teh car on it's at a higher rate of tap tap tap). I found that the cables for the park brake were touching on the mid muffler/resonater/whatever it's called. It was quite obvious as there was a clean mark on teh cables where they were touching the muffler. I used some insulating material to wrap around the cables and put a hose clamp around them to bring the lower of the two cables up higher. As a result....dead silence! I never got a chance to see if this was teh problem with the stock or my first aftermarket system, however it might be worth shimming under your ute to have a look at. Nolz. ps there's not much room under there! EDIT...pic! The two cables were touching toward the front end of the muffler.

bwahhaa If the OP wants to check out the SS inductions merged thread, I've put up a few posts which may interest you. Currently on the last page.

I will be getting it retuned and will wack up a dyno sheet however I've had the exhaust changed since it made the 308 rwkw previously. That was with the old 3" single (yes, an epensive mistake) I've since gone to a 3.5" single which is already noticeably better flowing. The big mouth surely is an improvement on stock, the more I think about it the more it makes sense. It's got a massive scoop channeling air straight into the intake at the point where air pressure is greatest (when moving).

I've only just managed to get what you're after. Problem is it isn't an off the shelf solution. I've got a single 3.5" with 2 large cylindrical straight through mufflers the mid section mild steel and the rear out of stainless (often lower a boat into the water so figured this to be the safer option). These mufflers are made up specifically for the shop so I'm not too sure if it's something one of your local exhaust place can do, but I'm sure it could come close. I've ended up with a nice note at idle, and a slight hum on acceleration from a stand still. With normal driving however it's quiet. ie until you give it a heap and there's no denying that you've got somethin special Shame you're not in Sydney otherwise I'd have no hesitation in sending you to the guys at Sureflo. This is the second exhaust place I've been to. The first wasn't quite able to dial the drone out (and wasn't overly welcoming).

Like you, I wasn't convinced that the centre muffler removal was what I was after and I couldn't find a clip that made me really want to get it done. Good thing about getting a custom exhaust it can be tuned and tailored to your liking. I think it's a better option as it'd cost you the muffler removal and then the extra work afterwards if you weren't happy. You should also think about what sort of power you want from your car in the future also, and buy right and buy once. (unlike me) and beleive me, when the bug bites it bites hard!

After a bit of googlín' and reading up on what I could find here and on fordforums I decided that it couldn't do much harm and for the money invested, it was worth a try. There wasn't a hope in hell that I'd pay retail for the growler kit and although I'd prefer to buy one of the CAI's from the sponsors here, $500-$650 ish is a bit much for me (especially when the stock air box was happy to make my 308rwkw. I am a fan of the stock appearance it deliers though. The kit set me back $99 + shipping and was here the day after I ordered it from an ebay seller (the only only one I could find). I already have a Process West cooler (stage 1) and was worried that the big mouth kit wouldn't fit. Luckily for me the clearances are perfect but it made me realise that those with the stage 2 or equivalent sized cooler will not be able to fit this big mouth kit. Here's just one without the plastic cover piece, note Crownie strategically positioned for scale I used a little bit of sillicone to secure the scoop to the plastic as added insurance to the 2 supplied self tappers As I mentioned, I'm particularly happy with fit and finish and the clean stock look is a winner Now I'm not expecting to feel any real difference, it was done as I figured the more air the better and figured every little bit helps, especially if it's not setting me back a fortune. HAven't taken it for a drive yet but will let you know if theres a noticable difference.

I'd love to replace that pipe with something after market if it meant a better flow (whilst retaining the factory cross over pipe and air box). AND because I love the sound of the turbo sucking in air.....love it! EDIT.... Thanks Benny for taking the time out and for posting up the pics!

Spotted a FG Phoon on Castle Hill Rd last week. Unmarked with the clear lensed LED's which flashed the pretty blue and red. I pity he who trys to pick a run with that falcon! Get beat, then pulled over!

Me too! I now wish I waited a couple of months! Mind you I doubt I'll be doing anything about it as the version 1 seems to be holding it's own with my power levels no probs. V2 coolers do look bloody good, neatly tucked away there.

I removed the FALCON and TURBO badges off of my ute after a couple of weeks of ownership. Just leave the bad boy out in the sun for a little while and go out there with a flat head. Take to an edge/corner of the badge and whilst using your hand as leverage (so you don't scratch your pride and joy) and simply pry it away from the paint work enough to get your nail under it and simply pull the bugger off. I would think that removing the FORD badge would leave you with holes and I haven't done it, so that I can't advise you on. Just be careful! I couldn't think of anything worse than scratching your new baby!