fish_351

I did this to my BA a while back.. I remember pulling out the reflector and either swapping them over (L <> R) or rotating them (180 degrees). Too long ago to recall. I setup a relay system to power them and used the normal high beam as the trigger for them. Can't remember the wattage or brand of lights (Philips Blue seems to ring a bell). The user Cro was helpful on the forums. Not sure if he's around any more, I haven't been on here in a long time. I used the same brand of globes in the standard high beam lights too. Bottom line is that the output was awesome.

Hot diggety

I remember this coming up on the forums a while back but I think it was shot down as an idea because the stroke of the I6 is already pretty long (as far as modern petrol engines go AFAIK)

Thanks for all the replies guys. One thing I did forget to mention is that I'm about 6-3in tall. I guess its just a case of getting in the car and swinging my boof head about and seeing it it collects the sunroof really. Cheers

Hi guys Have rarely been in a sunroofed car so I'm looking for some opinions on the factory fitted sunroof in BFs. I'm thinking of trading up to a BF F6, and have found one that suits me, except it has a sunroof. Dont know if it's a good or bad thing. Does the sunroof have any bad points? Are the factory ones prone to leaking? Do you get sunburnt? LOL TIA.

Yep. did just have a drive at lunch and it did seem quite nice. (05 BF T) Once edited it should allow the upshifts to rev out bit more - it seemed softer changes than my 4 speed. Also it seemed to want to pull in the same gear if in normal mode rather than kickdown when flattened at 90-100kph. Once switched over perf. mode it would kickdown well. Overall the box did seem much tighter whilst in gear than the BA Mk1 4spd. Maybe I'm hard to please, but I didn't hop out saying "wow, I'll get a XR6T\F6 with one of those in it" though. Salesman is going to get a manual and an auto together when I get back from OS in Nov. for a back to back test. Thanks everyone for your replies.

I guess one of the things that piss me off about the 4sp auto I have is that it's a bit sluggish. It seems to just need more oompf (techo term there...) to get it off the line. Hard to describe, probably sounds like I'm whinging. What I'm trying to say is that a manual car "feels" a bit lighter engine-wise. Like it can get up and boogie a bit easier. I hope the 6sp ZF is tighter. Time will tell for me, after I bat away a salesman and go for a drive in one. :disguise: My existing auto probably needs a good freshen up, but it's still just a 4 speed. Thanks for your advice guys. Also, thanks for the heads up on the brakes Zap. P.S. Daz, dont you use the old knee bracing the wheel trick whilst chowing down on your Royale-with-cheese? :-) Or just put her in top and use the torque? ;-)

Thanks for your opinions guys. I guess I just miss the fine grained sort of control/delivery you have with a manual, but on the strength of your opinions I will see if I can have a spin in a 6sp auto. Brakes are a definite biggie for me; if you pull up shorter with good brakes than the standard brakes, then it could be a life (or lives?) you've saved. I've had a few frightening left-foot-to-floor moments and have been pleasantly surprised with the premium BA 1 brakes. I gather these were standard on the BA2 F6. You guys got any opinions on the Brembos over the old PBR std. setup? Sounds like I'd better go and have a flirt with the local Ford dealer. Down boy.

Hi there, I'm looking to go back to a manual (I have an Auto BA 1 T), and also while I'm at it taking it to Nizpro for a stage 2 kit. They seem to be getting reliable stage 2 results of over 340rwkw for F6's, so it seems logical that I go for an F6. Manual conversion for my current car isn't really on the agenda, I live too far away from any mechanics that I'd trust to do it right. I'd rather get rid of what I have (that still goes OK, no problems). Just wondering if there's much differences mechanically or otherwise between the BA2 and the BF? Bearing in mind that I'm going for a manual, would I be missing out on much if I picked up a low-kay BA2 F6 instead of a newer BF? (I wouldn't be getting the BF new, probably get an ex-demo/exec car) Cheers

Yeah I can vouch for him too, he lives not far away from me and even fitted it for me while I waited. Good bloke.

Kinda reminds me of when I bought my used T from the dealer; it had a FXXXING UNICHIP fitted! Took it back and dropped it on the manager's desk - he offered me discounted servicing for the blunder. .... I said "I don't think so buddy. If your monkeys can't spot a Unichip there, your monkeys ain't touching the car any more."

LOL - I got mine out with a sulphur-crested cockie at 110km/h. Perfect job, didn't even crack the glass. Just stopped, pulled the cocky (now dead) out of the bar and away we went. They are a bit hard to line up just right, I'll admit that.

No probs. I'm sure Nizpro can sell you just the bits you're after, be it springs or plenum etc. Get it from the horse's mouth though. There's heaps of good info on their forums, Simon quite often gets on there and separates facts from "forum fiction", on different topics. Cheers

Talk to Nizpro - they will be able to get you to that kind of power pretty easy with minimum fuss. Nizpro Website Probably no need to re-make the wheel - Nizpro have been in it up to their necks since the first XR6T rolled off the line. They've been into performance turbo stuff for years - since the VL days I think. I'm not paid or reimbursed for my comments - I just think they are bloody good at what they do. HTH?

Good thread. Will be interested to see where it goes. Mine has started to slightly flare on hard downshifts on the highway. (eg overtaking 4th back to 3rd or 2nd.) It slightly pauses in neutral causing the revs to rise, then engages the lower gear at those higher revs. Its not the fluent down shift it used to be. Its OK though, considering it has 285 Nizpro rwkw to deal with. Getting local tranny shop to have a look tomorrow.

I got 270 on my mid-03 BA (series 1) with the exact same gear - Edit + injectors + springs. You should get that peak figure quite easily. But as BCL said above, it's the area below the sqiggly line on the dyno sheet that matters (power over the entire rev range = drivability), not just how high it goes (peak kW). Good luck, and be sure to let us know how it went. You won't go wrong with Nizpro. Don't do anything stoopid until you're used to the power - I nearly looped it driving out of the front of Nizpro after the first edit. Yeah it was wet, but you know.. Ooops.

Just a thought - have you considered going down the old-school C10 auto route? You can get adaptor bell housings that will bolt straight up to a Ford 6 apparently. They're advertised at the back of the April '06 Street Machine. www.torque-power.com.au if you're interested - dont think they have the Ford 6 bellhousing on the site yet by the looks.

That's great news Dingah, as it happens I'm going to get the exact same treatment late next month. I have a Nizpro Stage 1 , with Niz valves and bored injectors. They managed 270rw then, hopefully we'll bust the 300 with a PWR cooler

Talk to Nizpro. www.nizpro.com.au They offer a 20,000k/12 month warranty on the "stage 1" pack, and they really know their sh*t. These guys aren't the cheapest, but IMHO, the best. Check their forums, Simon (the head guy there) answers all sorts of tech questions, and is very approachable. If you want to pay for a well-grounded package that is guaranteed not to pop, then he's your man.

Cool, thanks for that info.

Does the heat of the engine bay affect the life of a battery? I seem to remember a cooling shroud surrounding the batt with air piped in from the front in my T (or perhaps that was on one of the old Falcs I used to have?)

From the Nizpro forums: A little info about the new round of edit updates. http://forums.nizpro.com.au/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=746

A mate of mine had a very similar issue to yours last week, his is an AU Fairmont. He took it to the local Ford dealer and they found a few things: very blocked fuel filter, badly blocked fuel regulator buggered injectors. Replaced them, and he's back to 500+ km/tank on open road. Previously he was at ~300km. He puts the trouble down to running the tank down, he drives it till it get to about 50km to go on the little readout. Let us know what you found.

Yeah, that's what I excel at: redundant posts. It's a goal of mine to hit 100 useless posts. Woopee, post count +1.

Or you could just have the small hose from the thermostat housing (that runs back to the top tank on the driver's shock tower) blow off under pressure and douse your whole engine bay with green coolant fluid. One day mine spewed nearly all the fluid out before I could pull it up safely. Cool party trick at 100kays! Sorry, this post was useless.