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Everything posted by blow off
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Well they are a little more but how's $1200 sound for 315/20/20's. that's a sh*t load of real quality rubber. Toyo have only been imported the 20's for a few months now. Here is a few of the sticky black bits.... Nittos/Pirelli's and couple of sets of the R888's. The Ute chews and spits out rubber so have to have some in stock, LOL. Dave (Blueboost) my Tuner got me onto the R888's he runs them on his tuned only FPV Turbo and runs flat 11's all day.
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Tried the Nitto Invo's and their semi slick too, went through 2 sets, they were good but as you say andrewd the R888's are the best tyres even driven on. Just trying to let people know there is other rubber out there and from my testing these do the best job so far.
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Hows a 1.6 60 foot on 20" rims with R888 grab ya.
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Loss Of Power Due To New 'built' Btr?
blow off replied to MercuryXr6Turbo's topic in Driveline Workshop
After having 6 of these built boxes we found the oil level has to be spot on and there is a method of getting this right like fill it up drive 5 or so kms and re-check and do this again a few times to make sure the stall has the oil it needs, put an external cooler on it will save the life of the box and oil type is critical. Sounds like you have a larger stall in it now but that will sling shot you above the stall rate. A good way to see your stall speed is, when stopped foot brake it in 1st and when ya rears start to spin on whatever rmp that's ya stall size. There is other factors involved like how good the rubber is but as a general rule that's the go. -
R888's are DOT approved, so legal. I have found they have more grip than Mt's and have been running them for 8000kms for everyday get into it driving, LOL. This set have about another 3000kms left on them which is good considering that a fair bit of this has been with 600+rwks, if you know what I mean.... They are around 40% more $$ than the Mt's but for me it's all about getting it down to the ground. Also Mt's are not made in 20's. The Toyos make great sizes, runnning 315/20/20.
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Toyo R888 - Best Yet for GRIP of about 15 different makes that have been on the Ute. These things just leave lines down the road when you get into it with the caltracks pushing the rubber into the road and without wheel spin up to/around 480rwks in a higher gear good up to 540rwks on warm rubber and excellent road surface. Found 30psi cold they like the best with my setup.
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What Size Turbo Should I Go For Serious Power (500Kw Plus)
blow off replied to Philbo84's topic in Forced Induction Workshop
Same, Ute made 540rkws with 29psi on 98. I would look at your other gear like exhaust ect or just put more boost into it !!! if ya motor likes that ?????? -
Hey Gents, Brad recommends 600kms run in with the main thing letting the motor to heat/cool cycle about 5 times before running big boost into it, Atomic had to do this a few times already in their shop due to the copper head casket and a few other reasons and retention the big head studs. This will be done and then we will run it up on a few 98 tunes and jump into the Meth tunes with one of these being for Dyno Comps. The Atomic motor is the 2'nd Built motor for the Ute. The first has done 50k with 30 of that @ 360rwks. Have had the old motor stripped and have all the parts for sale excluding the block. We did not use the old block it has gone to another home already. Brad had a block set aside for himself which has extra thick walls and due to what we are going to chase out of this new motor I managed to convince him to use it. The Garrett T51r is on ebay untill Monday, 8pm it finishes. Using the existing 6Boost manifold and will post up all the motors internal gear for sale after the 2st Aug due to leaving the country very soon unless somebody just wants to put a figure forward, my email is [email protected]
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Had a change of direction on the new motor, went one of Brad's 998 GT-R Atomic items with the stage 4.5 cams with ALL the goodies including the big head work. Arrives Monday. After much consultation with Kyle and Dave went the larger of the Garrett GTX42's with a 1.28 rear and V band clamp. Been delivered. New Diff and Axles set up is in. Transbrake in, check... We have booked the ute in for tuning on Thursday, hope we make it for Mackay Mini Power Crusie on the 25/06 have heaps to do. :turboboink:
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Fpt & 6Boost Go 735 Plus Kw & Still Climbing
blow off replied to qik1's topic in High Power Builds (300+ Club)
Well done to ya John and Team. Great effert and the results show this. Would love to see Qik1 on Methanol..... Ordered the same Turbo from Kyle the other day, you really like it hey.... and on ya Atomic motor all good there... Have ordered a 998 race spec from Brad too. Mate we will have to line Qik1 and the Ute up on the track for a bit of FUN. -
Dominello Race Transmissions in Dural, NSW.
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New Stall Converter is in and does the job well, no more flaring. Went for a re tune @ Daves and had no joy due to the studs being rooted. Won a local Dyno comp the other week but it went to 41psi due to new gaskets ect and damage has been done. Had a few issues with the Ute in the last few weeks like the Diff exploding and really wanting to get out of its housing, LOL and the head lifting on boost above 33psi with the T51r Garrett, SO.... New Garrett Gtx4292r on the way. This thing should spool around the same as the T51r and have another 350hp, Boost it to 40psi on METH and lets see hey..... True Track Diff setup going in. Full engine rebuild. Its been pulled apart and cylinder 4 has some marks due to water getting in with the head lifting BUGGER !! Basic breif to the engine builder, Make it love 40+psi and have a good life span. Should be back on the road within a few weeks, will have to run it in then tune time of Mackay Mini Power Cruise on the 25th June.
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I do not know about the TCE. The T400 in mine has a 9" custom built converter (Old 1) which was done by the box builder. With the converters in our cars there is alot to be taken into account, after heaps of reserch, like the large amount of foot pound of torque they make, high weight, oil temps and type of oil and what you want out of the car eg - converter to slip or flare to when its on boost so great for 1/4 times or a tighter converter for dyno comps. The biggest problem is the different power levels our engines make with different fuels. My old coverter held around 540rwks so it might be suited to your application. The new custom converter is a 10.5" and is going to be tight so will be great for dyno comps but the Ute my not got up on boost to get it out of the hole of 1/4 times so might need a shot of NOZ. My converter/box builder thinks with 600rwks tune on the old coverter which was flaring straight to the limiter to the new 1 which will not flare above, around 2600rmp on meth will automaticly pick up 100rwks.
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So Kent you going to Ingham hey... what fuel will you be running. Was sooooo keen of this event but the misses has booked a week away in Melbourne of our birthdays. Hear poopie is now joint running this number...
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Hey all, whats been happening ????? Got a nice little supprise waiting when returning from Thailand (Fark they love their rices over there, some sweet euro's exotics and heaps of nissans, would be fun to bring our powered up rigs over here and show them what's it all about, would have to have a big brake package, LOL, after the labour day long weekend) Ute will have the new stall converter fitted and tranzbrake (finally), harness and a few other goodies !!! It's booked in for a re-tune on the 6th of May with Dave. If we do not drop the crank out the bottom end there is a local dyno comp on the following day with good prize money on hand, Kent you keep away, LOL !! Keep you posted on the results of the re-tuning.
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John you will love the grip level of the R888. Get into it mate !!!!!!!!!!
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Should be running Meth but between a T400 and a large custom stall and with all the normal drive-line power costs lets wait and see. Looking at 1 of the new Garrett GTX Turbos if the T51r does not cut it. These GTX are looking close to the ducks nuts even better than the HKS.... Have to dig a little deeper...
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Yep, that's right.. only an advance of 2 degrees of timing was added to the methanol tune (607kws) compaired to the 98 tune (550kws) due to the convertor slipping. Boost was raised 5 psi to 33 also. We are going to drop the boost down to around 24 and put as much timing into it as possible and move up from there when tuning on Meth again (Not far away). For memory the current Meth tune had about 20 degrees of timing so as a reccommend starting point 30 is the go and then raise this 2 degrees each time untill it pings/detanates. We are thinking 40+ might be the tops...?? So there will be no problems with at least an additional 10 degrees and go from there. There is a blend between timing and boost from my understanding of tuning. We really are not 100% sure what we will get out of this thing but Dave thinks around 750+Kws, the + being the big unknowed, if you do the math between the above figures its looking more like 900+kws running the 33 psi without the crank flying out the bottomend.... I would be very happy with over 1000hp !!
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Hey Steve, yours is nothing to be sneezed at, good daily drive mate. Been chasing my box/converter builder and the good news it's not far away.... We will be right to see what a Boosted Barra motor can really do running on Methanol..... Wacked on some Toyo R888 315/30/20's the other day and was that impressed brought another set. 1.39 60 foot runnning gtech on the street....
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Sorting out the Flaring Stall, going a 10.5" Custom number and whacking a Tranzs Brake on the T400 while we are at it. We only increased the timing by 2 degrees from 98 pump and we have now found out that a minimum of 30 degrees is a starting point using methanol... Hanging out for the next tunning run
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Do it Kent, few more pumps and bigger injectors... what fuel reg you got.. it will run COOLER and you know the coil problems you were having got rid of my same problem by using the weapon x coils, flebay $400.
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Update- It's in the 600+ section Car: 2004 BA Mk2 XR6T Ute Motor: Custom Built Trans: Turbo 400 with tranzs brake, 3000 Stall, Hurst Shifter with 2 PWR Coolers + fans Power: 600+RWKW - With the stall flaring, new 1 on the way soon. Drive Train: Custom chromyl uni jointed Tail Shaft & Built Diff Boost: 34 PSI Induction: Process West Race Kit & Battery to Tray Turbo: T51r Garrett Valve Springs: Performance Exhaust: Custom - 4" Dump, 6" Collector to Twin 3" Fueled by: 98 pump and Methanol might give Nitromethane/Methanol a go... Fuel System: Process West Fuel rail, Custom 75 litre cell 4 X Bosch 044 Pumps all -10 braided lines with speedflow gear Intercooler: PW Stage 3 Race Kit Injectors: Bosch 160lb's Water/Methanol injection. Stoppers: 6 pot Brembos to the front and 4 pot AP racing on the rear. Rims/Rubber: 20" Vertini Fashions with 315/30 Toyo R888 rear and smaller to the front.. Caltracts with 15" slicks on the way. Tuner: Blueboosted
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Good luck with your goal. Have you every owned or driven a 1000hp street car.... I think the biggest item is knowing what you want then working out how to get there. Do it once only and do it right. I have been through half a dozen gear boxes, please don't get me started. Do Not Forget when these types of rigs are customized to handle really big power they loose the factory feel in regards to drivability. Did 400kms in mine the other day in 1 hit, got out of the thing knacked. As others have stated the buget will need to be heaps, trust me mate lets just say mine build is over 100k with another 15k on a fuel system to achive what your after. 6BOOST, you got the job of my next build mate, especially for 50k for 1000hp. Then even with the hole Ute being built you want to have coin left over for breakages as qik1 said You will find heaps of great forum members that will be very willing to assist serious contenders.
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OK the update is tuned the Ute the other week and got over 600rwks, have a gander in the 600+ club for more details, Cheers
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The axels have been welded into the built diff. Gears are 3:4:1 but might have to change them, unless we up the rev limiter and put some big slicks on it. The standard diff died with 400kws but the thing is driven hard.
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