orangeute338

that looks all wrong, the cab is 3m and its only about 2m from the cab to the end of the chassis, tray needs to be 2.3 -2.4m to look right... I hope you like axle tramp and you will find they run 7s with mono leafs and crazy anti-roll setups nothing like what people think "leaf springs" are like

you can make a intake using the stock plastic pipe off the turbo if you cut it up and join it with some silicone joiners....but you dont get the sound of alloy piping...

I hope that isnt a standard silicone bend..... I dont know whats worst this or the tray:S

if you want coil overs then get a Expensive Daewoo ute....lol tramp can be fixed with decent shockers with correct rebound rate. stay away from king springs there leafs make the tramp worse...there is also tramp rods you can get for about $700 from mc donald bros racing they are meant to be 50% better then without them...get a sway bar in the rear if you are gona do some track days helps alot with the body roll and a nice fat one on the front also...dont waste the 10k on the carbon kit, I have seen that if you really want a 4link setup you can do it for much cheaper check out mc donald bros racing they sell kits...the rear end out of a early au falcon would be a good mod 4link with watts link, just like v8 super cars...

ecu can adjust if you just get a bolt on cooler and use the stock piping you will be right...think about it all you are doing is cooling the air coming into the motor. in winter the air is cooler then summer so the ecu has to change to suit the air temp...its only when you change the flow rate eg bigger piping less drag quicker spool is when you would need a retune... all that will happen in summer is you wont make 360kw you might make it for 10seconds then you will prob make 260kw because your cooler will be heat soaked, the ecu will see high intake temps and pull the timing out to suit the intake temps... engine temp on the gauge has nothing to do with intake temps, the intake temps spike up under boost a cooler that uses all the stock piping would be the best bet...water injection is another option to keep the temps down under boost

like this? I made up something for a guy to connect the hdi stuff to the tb

you could have spent another $100 and got a hdi kit...that piping is getho...reminds me of my skyline turbo conversion with pvc piping.... how about running the piping over the top of the cooler not under?

same thing happened to me after I installed some gauges and tapped into the lighter socket for the lights for the gauges....not sure if it had anything to do with that but notice they stopped working around the same time...when you switch to auto the stay on all the time and turn off when you remove the key....instead of only coming on in the dark and staying on for a few seconds after you take the keys out...I think its maybe something to do with the bem...ford should be able to sort it out with there wds tool

I had the bem and battery out of the car for a few months and now when I put the key in theres no dash lights and light flashes sayin the imboilser is still on...I did some research and only could find one person who had the same prob but had to get a electrican to come and hook up a laptop to fix...is there some way to reboot the system or whateva??? its like the key isnt knowen by the car anymore...

I just pulled mine out at 70kks filter is clean looks like new, but I change my oil every 5000ks and its a bf. must be a ba problem;)

theres a few second hand ones around that would be the best option I would say, theres on in the parts for sale that is just the core and bigger front cover for 800$ and ebay has replacement cores for 880$ new ball bearing ones. that's if your housings arnt to chewed out

my ute had 5000ks on it when I got it tuned to 338kw, lasted a day...in the day was ok but the cold nite air when was making bit more power just slipped...lower gears were ok but high gears when ya loaded it up it slipped. I brought a exedy cushion buttom because I thought I could get away with just skimming the fly wheel cos it was pretty new but it was toasted. cracked and massive hotspots. so ended up getting a billet flywheel from mal wood. all up cost me 600 for clutch and 300 for flywheel. I thought I could save some money instead of getting the opt 3 cos it comes with new flywheel etc, but ended up having to get a new flywheel anyways... I would look at getting a twin plate, can get em for the same price as the opt 3 but should hold more power... opt 3 might be ok I havnt used one

you dont need a -8 return that's massive, I made up a rail for a mate putting a fg manifold on a ba, we just used -6 feed and -6 return. the head is the same as fg so bolts up the same. if it was me instead of running 2 fuel lines. I would just have a joiner block at the pumps then run a single -8 line to the rail and a -6 return, and I would have one of the pumps run off a pressure switch so kicks in at 5psi or so..or just run both pumps but have the voltage regulatored then with a pressure switch give full volts at 5psi or so...keeps the noise down and doesnt spend half the time just pump fuel up and back.

yeah true. im wondering now if I should get a fg manifold or mod the ba one. I have a n/a one atm cos I destoried my old one. I was gona pull the butterflys out and weld up the holes and machine out the bottom so its one open hole not split split. but fg ones looks so sexy maybe ill bolt my makes onto my motor with lots of lock tight and tell him he cant have it back;) would be good to see a back to back test though ba/bf compared to fg....guess could just drive a stock fg compared to a bf with a tune

you could always put on a snorkle if you are worried about water in ya filter when ya doing river crossings in ya falcon

the one my mate got already had been welded up and new holes drilled and tapped for the ba/bf throttle body...I got it sitting here im gona trial fit it up on my car to make up some piping for him. he brought some fuel rail from the states we are gona make up for it. ill put up some pics soon... did you do any before and after dyno to see the difference?

well depends on what box and what diff... my 6speed manual and ute diff have coped alot of abuse at 330-350rwkw and still going strong...2nd gear burnouts, 3rd gear wheelspin at 100km/h when it comes on boost. I pop the clutch in second every chance I get...

I could make you a 3inch one 4inch is a no go though...

yeah HDI is a good setup but just seems like they are the only one around that price and half decent...theres just needs to be more sellers on the market to bring the prices down...the cars have been around for ages... I found this also from the same guy that has the 500x400x90 coolers http://heat-exchanger.en.alibaba.com/product/370724422-209955559/bar_plate_intercooler_for_XR6.html oh yeah check the price $55-65 per cooler...

I just want to level the field...if you had a skyline you could chose from a million different setups...why should there be only a few people getting rich off these cars? everytime someone says what cooler should I use. all the people on this forum straight away say oh you need to spend $1500 to make 300kw dont touch a monza cooler it will explode..

well not really because he sells kits...if he sells the coolers on there own how much?

will do. I have a rapid cooler that I will test compared to this one which is the same as the china one...which are all the same... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Intercooler-500x400x90-Ford-Falcon-Commodore-V6-V8-cars-/110683016020?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c538cb54

what about some intercoolers min order is 10 but $90each 500x400x90 http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/370732148/bar_plate_intercooler_for_Ford_Falcon.html

luke. said "If I was you I'd be picking up the phone and having a chat with him!" so I said "why are you gona give him a call do you have a patent on this pipe?" im sorry next time ill direct my post at the right person...I hadnt worked out that quote thing

well what were you talking about then....