orangeute338

that's what I was talking about...try reading the whole post

maybe match his price and lower it by $100 lol....why are you gona give him a call do you have a patent on this pipe?

I can get them clamps for $2.5 each, and 90deg bend is $21 and the straight joiners are about $7-10 and alloy bends are $18 mild steel $25 from the zorst shop... also just for interest sake, the rapid one looks to be 3.5/4inch piping where as that ebay one only looks to be 3inch and its mild steel rapid is alloy

yeah but I make everything on the cnc that's just how I roll....ill have to check out this efi hardware place, that's cheap as think vpw has it for $100 or something...prob can thread the ends for the fittings but got a tig so I can do either or how much are the processwest ones?

my first bike was a new 05 zx6r. still have it. one stage it was a turbo zx6r(pic) now its just atmo with noz for the drags. does mid 10s other bike is my daily klx400, pending motard conversion I only just got my licence back for the 4th time so the zx6 isnt going to be registed for a while if eva or untill I learn some self control(throttle control), the dirt bike is good though. just to be free and on 2 wheels again is great...

I came across this add on ebay it made me laugh http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FG-XR6-Turbo-G6E-F6-ute-Intake-Pipe-not-Rapidsystems-/120741129922?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1cbb6ec2 and I also noticed others selling them has anyone actualy spent that much money on one of these? $175-210 for a bend and 2 silicone joiners and some clamps....mild steel bend = $18 joiners = $30 clamps = $10 can of spray paint = $17 profit = $100

that got a cooler? so was there no way to make and ba fuel rail fit? we were thinking of getting some of that extruded alloy fuel rail stuff and make up our own on the cnc

if I have my spring to tight(bov closed at idle) it doesnt even open at all when I back off....

has anyone else done this mod lately? my mate at work brought a fg manifold we are gona put on his ba, just have to work out the fuel rail. will post up pics if anyone is interested? also was thinking of making up some throttle body adaptors if anyone was interested, or can weld up the fg TB holes and redrill to suit ba/bf TB...

this is way old but why dont fraud paint the engine bays properly? even on the fpv they dont even spray the body colour...

has anyone removed the fuse box? I want to paint the engine bay and theres a heap of wires to pull out of the fuse box is it easier to disconnect them inside the car and pull out through the drivers side hole?

yeah I think my best time came when it was 8deg outside:D altho intake temps are right up when sitting staging, I have a wideband with data logger and intakes sit at 60-70deg when sitting waiting and maybe 50 when at the lights....I usualy drive out of the track do a few laps up the high way get the temps down then try get a run straight up....once I even had a spray bottle with metho in it and I sprayed the cooler while I was inline waiting...worked ok...need a dry ice cooler:D

yeah that's pretty cool, like a bee r limiter. that's a good idea also cos you can get consistant launches at the same speed. I try set my revs then try watch the lights and listen to the revs,makes it hard to keep eye on tach and lights...in street series though they dont let you run 2 steps like that... hey in your sig it says 303rwkw and 12.9 makes me wonder what power my ute makes if I can do 12.4 and 118mph last time it was on the dyno made only 285kw but not sure if my boost controller was working properly..

I think less power is better im not sure what my car makes but I get no wheel spin at the track. I think my tune comes on pretty soft which makes for good grip, street is a diff story though....the cooler is just a rapid one 500x400x90 but I have custom piping that I made up. I sold my tub and started to make a custom tray not sure if it will help or make it worse...usualy it bogs off the line so heat soaked and slow till half track....feels like that to me anyways I also have a zx6 that does 10.6s so 12.6s is pretty slow;) it just takes times I have probably done 50 passes in my ute and about 10 on my bike when I started on the bike was doing 11.2s altho it has a few mods now.... how does the launch control work? you get boost off the line?

12.6@117 with crap start on 235 60 r17s....

yeah let them buggers down, what they like on the street? I was eyeing them off once. exxy though. I did a 12.7 with 225s on 20x8.5 rims with $150 triangles they are pretty good tires. I also did a 12.6 with stock territory tires the 235 big profile ones.... with manuals you need to slip the clutch or they bog or just spin

well fg is same as bf I guess maybe diff springs shocks. I did a 1.9 in my ute with stock 18s so its possible just have to slip the clutch dont over do it though. get a shifter or drive a manual fpv they have the better gear stick way better then xr6t. 2nd (3rd if ya game) is the go just pull up in the water rev it to 5-6k then step off the clutch then on the brakes count to 5 then let it rip onto the sticky stuff that's what I do you well feel how sticky it is first time I thought I broke something. nankang ns-2 ultra softs hook up good I ran 265s on my stock 18s run at 20psi and pump the fronts up high to keep the friction down

how do you launch? I have a manual but my mate has a ba auto sedan and he could only get 2.2s he said that was stalling it up as much as the stocker would let. what rpm do the fgs stall to stock? 12.2 is pretty quick for completely stock...

I get fultter out the turbo side even when I had a bov on I put it down to the throttle body not shutting fast enough to open the bov with the vac. I tried cutting the spring down and it helps a bit but I get a woosh out the left side followed but a tuuuu out the turbo side....normaly when u back off the needle should snap back to vac but mine slowly goes back to vac....

on a side note has anyone seen the carbonart carbon fiber 4link kit for the falcon utes. theres a $4000 way to stop the tramp if ya got some coin to spend;)

spend ya money on track time, you can do whateva mods you want but without track time you arnt gona do squat. you should be able to get a sub 2sec 60footer with some skills. tramp rods are good but theres other ways around the tramp, decent shockers with adjustable rebound is the way to go. the ute is a fat arse as it is you dont need a few more kg of unsprung weight on the back end.

I wont be heading out anytime soon my car is in a million parts, im making up a new rear end with 4link and ditching the springs (got some pics in the ute section under 4link). shifters are ok but I did the same with stock shifter compared to the mal wood with the shorter stick. but if you still have the standard setup ditch it quick cos the difference is amazing the stock shifter has to much rubber and is sloppy as. I do second gear burnout in the wet 6k for a few seconds then hold it onto the track upto the lights.

no I pulled the battery out of the box that it sits in then I put a lid on it and cut a hole in the bottom and the side of the box and cut up the 3inch piping that goes from the front of the turbo to the crossover and feed it into the battery box. I have made a few pipes up out of 3inch alloy and sold em also. but if you want it to be quiet has to be plastic.

this was pretty much what he did I think.

I helped a mate install one on his car, hasnt had a chance to test it out properly but its old skool proven tech so theres no reason why it wouldnt work. would be good if you wanted to run a small cooler for better response you could run a water injection to compensate. we set his up to come on at about 5psi so its not always going so dont have to refill all that much.