jacob_xr6turbo

my diff's done 60,000km, and it's still ok. I dread the day when it single spins and I try to get 300rwkw to the ground...

Senna? surely you've done it by now!!

was on tour in sydney for the hardcore 2009 festival, and spotted BLU-2** ?? Blue XR6T Sedan? up near the formule hotel near the KFC somewhere up the road.. maybe south sydney? im not good with areas in sydney, sorry..

Now... where's our WAGS competition??

Got some new plates the other day ..

he probably means on the dash in front of the steering wheel hahah

exactly, a stock cooler will hold 300rwkw, but won't be consistent. My car was all over the place power wise when I had the custom tune only 273rwkw with the standard cooler. Now with my process west cooler, it's very consistent. Best mod ever.

I've replaced fuel filter, coils, plugs, valve springs, etc, and it happened to me today.. Could be some bad fuel or something. Just see how it goes and see if it gets worse. I'll be keeping an eye on mine.

You guys are getting worse... A boost gauge is good because you can tell if the car is overboosting. Any turbo car should have a boost gauge. Almost as vital as a fuel gauge sometimes! Pole position (site sponsor) do a good mounting setup, look them up. Otherwise you should try ebay for a FPV F6 mounting setup.

This happened to me as well today.. Keep an eye on it. If it becomes more frequent, maybe look into it. I doubt it's valve springs..

for a manual T, the first mod you should do is a mal wood option 3 clutch. Nothing more disheartening than a slipping clutch. Mine slipped 1 day after a custom tune only (273rwkw).

My mate saw "HI-NRGY" (FG XR6T), is he a member here?

The grammar nazi needs some spelling lessons.. Glad you're alright mate. A clear explanation of what really happened might help us understand a bit better..

haha nah man. should be vegan hey?

just wait out the front and ask Mick and Raff questions all day from the roller door.. haha. Nah seriously, bus your way down the peninsula and have an adventure.

I'm straight edge. Look it up

I got all my work done at Pitlane, highly recommended. See my sig for a list of mods needed to get close to 300 SAFELY. Valve springs are a reliabilty thing, and should be done whenever you increase boost above 10psi I believe. Next step for me is stronger actuator and wastegate porting + high flow cat and centre muffler removed. You need the turbo wastegate work done to have better boost control, as when you add a free flowing exhaust, it gets hard for the stock actuator and wastegate to control boost. Then bump the boost up to 15psi and see how we go. hopefully ~320rwkw. Is your MKII a 6 speed manual or 4 speed auto?

that sucks...

Hey guys, yeah I've cleaned the throttle body.. I'm going to change the TPS and check the wiring more closely to see how its going.. I had the valve springs changed, but its not erratic idle or mechanical, its just a sudden drop and stall, no roughness, etc. feels electrical or something..

Hi guys, Ok, I don't know how many of you know, but lately my car has been suffering from a stalling problem, where the car will completely stall on downchanging gears when slowing down.. No stuttering, no bad idle, just stalls. It is so random and intermittent, it's starting to really give me the irrits! I went to Mick at Pitlane when it started happening, and got him to extract some fault codes and clear the Keep alive memory. The only fault code in there was a Coil pack circuit failure. He also bandaid fixed the idle control in the tune. So off I went and changed the coil packs hoping that was the issue.. The car has been fine for a few weeks, then last night it happened again. I was driving sedately (with the A/C on which seems to be a contributing factor), coming down gears approaching an intersection with a green left hand turn arrow. I clutch in to go from 3rd to second to go around the corner and suddenly the steering becomes very hard. The lights come on on the dash, and I literally am surprised the car had stalled, because there was no stuttering. I manage to start the car again mid turn, and get first, then keep going. So anyway, There is a thread on fordforums where a lot of people have had the same issue. http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=75412 I have done plugs, coils, full custom tune, injectors, fuel pump, etc. Only thing I can think of is doing TPS/Oxy sensor. Some other people had a similar issue, and it was burnt out wiring behind the head on the exhaust side causing it. There is another train of thought on this, as seen here in a nizpro forum thread.. "Mine was stalling in the same manner (only ever on first daily drive though) - which was a lil dangerous when coming through a round-a-bout or up to traffic lights as you lose alot of brake and steering power. When pushing the clutch in, it would dip to about 200-250rpm and then fluctuate up and down to 900 rpm, after settling at 700 finally a few seconds later. Occasionally it wouldnt make it back after the first dip, and it would stall. The idle-up sensor (not sure of correct name) was out and was fixed in the last service through the tune. Dave said to fix it he 'did the usual required adjustments in the tune whenever there are idle problems' - and it has worked perfectly since. Im sure Dave will put your mind at ease mate good luck." ---- "What I did to combat the stalling issue- When coming to a complete stop keep it in gear until the rpm is at 750rpm before pushing the clutch in. Bringing the rpm to its idle level with car speed means that the idle-up sensor cant come into play. - as opposed to pushing the clutch in at 2000rpm when coming to a stop. So when you push the clutch in after already brining it to idle level rpm it should stay stable. Otherwise, for roundabouts etc, I always have my car in gear unless stopping completely. Apparently its not completely uncommon with tuned cars, and im sure it will work out after next service. If its really bad and dangerous and you dont want to have to drive as ive suggested above, then book it in now! SAFETY is No 1 priority for both you and those driving around you." Now, my question is, how many people here have had a similar issue, and how many have found the problem? Surely it cant be this hard to rectify Does anyone know what this "idle up sensor" is? For me this is something I would consider selling my car about. I can't spend all this money on my car to have it p1ss in my face and cause me a headache like this. If we could leave this thread in General Tech that would be much appreciated, just to see if we can gauge up some general interest and feedback on this annoying issue. Thanks guys, Chris

Don't put the boot in until you get a tune. You may even need a stronger actuator and wastegate mod to control the boost. everytime you run the car lean, you are creating massive pressure increases in the combustion cycle, causing extra strain on the bottom end. It might seem fine now, but may deteriorate over time and blow at a later date.

With all respect, I'm sure most of them all do the same thing. I'd rather put a $100 towards a plenum rather than see which is best. Saying that though, a plenum is last on the list of mods that I would do anyway.. It's funny when you see people who have a plenum but no exhaust or wastegate mod, etc..

old thread I know, but did the OP end up fixing this issue?

I have the ticking noise when cornering right.. but it goes away when I turn the fan for the air con off? hahah. Can't figure out for the life of me what's wrong..