norrs

Hi guys, I've been searching the threads and I can't seem to find an answer to the below. My f6 has been happily running near 380rwkw on 98 as a daily driver for a few years now. The engine is stock internals. Well the other day I might have pushed her a little too hard. I've now got a head gasket leak. I see this as a fantastic excuse to freshen things up. I live in Darwin so I want to make sure I've got most of the parts in advance so the car isn't off the road too long. Freight to Darwin is sh*t. So while the engine is out I want to know what I should be replacing. BTW the car still runs perfectly fine its just leaking and using heaps of oil. I assume I should do the following: Oil Pump gears & Backing plate Valve springs Head studs & OS washers My Question is whether there is anything else I need to replace as insurance if I'm aiming for a max of about 450kw (well lets dream of 500) if I ever go e85. From what gather the F6's already have strengthened conrods and pistons which I assume should be fine for the numbers I'm seeking. So unless my mechanic sees any wear that requires attention, I plan to leave the bottom end as is. My question is mainly aimed at timing chain guide, Crankshaft Sprocket, etc... Were there any improvements with these items for the F6's? I'm aware that some of the guides fail but I'm not sure if the 2010 F6's use the same sh*tty bits. My valve springs have been fine to date so I assume they are a little stronger in F6's but I gather after 160,000km I should upgrade. Any thoughts or advice is welcome.

I thought I might do an update on this regarding reliability. I've been happily daily driving for the last 5 & 1/2 years on a 500rwhp tune running the aquamist system. I've only touched the system once to upgrade the spray injectors to a larger size and to solder part of the circuit board to increase the flow. The latter was done by an electronics shop in accordance with the aquamist manual. It was quick and easy, the shop didn't even charge me but I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself as the solder point is 1-2mm with no room for error. To date, I've had one of the plastic push line fittings fail a few years ago (a 1 minute $5 job) and today the gauge sh*t itself after a few weeks of slowly losing LED lights off it. It's $250 to buy a replacement gauge. I still must say that I'm still very happy with the systems reliability. I'm not sure why the gauge failed. My car is rarely parked in the sun but when it is it's fricken hot in Darwin! Like you get back to the car and the entire centre roof light fitting has dislodged and is hanging down by its wires because of the heat. When the new gauge arrives, I might relocate it off the windscreen.

So just a follow up. Yes I cleaned everything out. I replaced the main fuel filter and there was no filings so it was obviously coming from the pump on the surge tank. I replaced that pump and all problems seem to now be fixed.

So I was having dramas with fuel pressure being too high and too low, fuel smell, car misfiring, etc, etc, Started trouble shooting. Pulled out the FPR and found it full of metal filings some appear to be brass or copper??? I have a surge tank with an 044 in it. I'm aware the fuel rail can rust but where the hell is the copper looking filings coming from? Is it the 044. That's all I can think of?

Dam I love this site. I had the same issue. Read this thread on my phone. Yep lose negative battery terminal. Boom 2 minutes from problem to phone to fix.

Ok so looking at a pierberg. I'm trying to work out which one. I see plazmaman is now using a 300l/hr on his surge tanks (no part number), independent motorsports has a 360lph part number EFP-485. I see people taking about 7.00228.51.0 but that looks like an internal pump???

did you find one? I use peckys

So update on this. I rewired the fuel pump so it gets power directly from the battery now. Did that three years ago when I did this post. Got a new 044 and It was all good till today. Now the whine is back. So I have to assume it's the heat. Having said that, my battery is on the way out. It's dropped enough power for my aircon to stop working twice in three weeks. I've charged it up each time and it lasts a week and a half before the same issue. (I have the Kayhan unit but it apparently has the software changes to avoid the battery drain). So maybe the battery has contributed to the fuel pumps death or it's a coincidence. Anyway, three years on, should I just go another 044 (would be my 4th one in 8 years) or is there something else on the market now that is worth considering. I have an original process west surge tank setup that it bolts into. I am about to go in for a tune for E85 if that makes any difference. Also have 1000cc injectors but stock regulator and fuel rail.

He explains it all on his you tube and Facebook channels. The hack is to rewire the pins to get the sun working

I can confirm that the aftermarket mic he provides works well. The new version of the unit is also instant startup. The sub hack works too.

Ok Installed mine over the weekend. My Car is MKi but I got the Mkii version. I sourced a MKii facia and top hat. it looks schmicko !!!. The install was difficult because of the model versions. I spent about 2 hours stuffing around with the brackets to get it to fit. I basically had to redrill some holes where the DVD player mounts of the side brackets and then cut up the LCD bracket and drill new holes for that to fit too. I got there in the end and the fit is perfect. I'll do up a video or a write up on the install eventually when I have time. The install was on a Sunday and the Kayhan guy was giving me very fast replies over FB messenger. His communication is second to none. Another complication was that there was no RCA reversing video cable in the pack. So I had to make one out of some RCA stereo cables. This took a while to workout because if you watch his video it appears the RCA cable he has, has 4 internal wires when it doesn't. its just red, black and yellow. the red actually exits the cable just prior to the RCA plug as th reverse power trigger. The coloring on the wires for my reversing camera were also different to his video. mine were red Black Brown and light green. I took a guess that the light green was the video (usually yellow) and that was correct. Another thing to note is that the system didn't connect to my OEM mic (despite what his video says) I had to use the supplied mic. Tonight I need to mount the mic, tidy the phone cable and soldier in a 5v cable for the amp into the red wire for the mic. This will activate the OEM sub. He has a new video up on how to do this. I just pulled the pins out of one of the Aux-out plugs and pushed them into the correct pin holes for the premium sound sub and then connected that to the sub wire. Apple car play works well. its awesome having siri on command. so far the buttons seem to work well with the steering wheel and other buttons. Now I just need to fork out $450 for an MKii triple pod mount for the lid.

I wonder if he is going to redesign the mki version so they fit better

I literally haven't touched the parcel since it arrived. But I'd feel sorry for the guy if everyone is returning units and he gets stuck with a bunch of old ones. I already got him to change my order from mki to mkii after I had ordered it

Noooo... my mkii unit is still unpacked in the parcel. Today I Finally got my hands on a mkii icc cover to install it and now I hear there is a better version. Noooo!!

Mine should arrive today. Though some numbnut wrecker appears to have sent me a MKI ICC cover not MKII even though I double checked with him. So my install will be delayed.

oh sorry yeah they have a territory too. here is the FG Mk2

Top end Audio want $400 for the MKii pod when the MKi is only $200.... WTF

Regarding my thread linked above. I still run water meth everyday on the aquamist system and its never missed a beat in all these years even though I'm 22PSI at 500 HPAW everyday. I did upgrade the system two years ago to put in larger jets in and I soldered a part of the motherboard to allow it to overclock the standard Max injection. I had to do this when I upgraded my injectors and turbo, and I was maxing out the Meth system.

Great news guys. there is an 8 inch MKii version now. Thank god because I just ordered my 10 inch version yesterday and I have now changed the order. You just have to get the MKii upper facia and an MKii top hat. for me, I'll be getting a Mkii gauge pod from top end audio so my gauges fit. See his FB page.

Hey sixman any more thoughts on this? Do you Still like after two weeks?

raising the gauges is probably a decent solution. it only needs to be 15-20mm. Yeah Pecky's are ok. He is a little conservative on the tunes so don't expect big numbers but they will be safe.

This ad popped up when I was looking at this thread. It reminded me of how my gauges would look if I installed this

This is such a great solution. I've been chatting to the guy on his FB site. Excellent responses from him. I only have three concerns: the screen is too big. There is no need to have it that big. it sits too high and too far forward. It will make my gauges look sh*t. it appears that to get it to fit the factory reversing camera and phone mic, you have to cut into it (I could be wrong), that part is no plug and play if using the OEM stuff, see my attached pic It would be great if it had an internal sim otherwise it seems perfect maybe topend audio could make a new gauge plate to jack my gauges up an inch??

I got all my stuff from the US. Jeff from Howerton engineering is awesome. He answered all question promptly and well after purchase http://howertonengineering.com/ They have a 25% off sale now I think.

Yep I also have aquamist. I have a full install write up on here somewhere. I live in Darwin so it’s hot and humid here. We also had no E85 when I installed it. I had it for a few years now and it’s never failed. Aquamist is very expensive but awesome quality. I agree with everything Sixman said. I also haven’t tuned for my full potential. I’m on just over 500rwhp now.