Phooned

Hey mate...I can confirm my setup is still going strong. I have the occasional ZF clunk when cold (did the same with the heat exchanger previously as well). However, once warmed up, I havent had any drama so far. My turbo is driven fairly hard as well.

If your car has a 6 speed auto transmission or has DSC...forget about it. It will NOT work. The transmission control module (TCM) in a XR6 turbo is different to a TCM in a FPV. By loading a FPV tune, the transmission will go into limp-home-mode -- indicated by the flashing "D" on the cluster. If your car has DSC, your cluster will stay lit up like a christmas tree. Since none of the BA/BF FPVs came with DSC, by flashing a FPV tune into a car with DSC, the software on the ABS module, will no longer communicate with the PCM. It will disable traction control and DSC. Also, like others have already said, the oil light on the cluster will stay lit up (unless you install an oil pressure transducer in place of the standard oil pressure switch).

Yes, the TCMs are programmed from factory. There is no way to re-flash the TCM to suit the car at this stage unfortunately. I had this issue when I went with a ZF box from a FPV tornado. I had to get the PCM loaded with the exact same software version that it left the factory with. The easiest way out if you have already got the ZF from a XR8 is to recondition and swap the TCM+valve body from your current ZF box. If you haven't purchased the box yet, simply look for a box from your model (I.e. a ZF from a XR6 turbo around the same year).

trancemaasta, any updates on this yet?

Affirmative mate.

Hey Guys, Apologies for the late reply. I just finished 1000Kms roughly 2 weeks ago after installing this kit on my BF Mk II Ghia (as you can tell I hardly drive the thing). The external cooler is great. I have had no dramas with it at all apart from leaking factory o-rings that needed replacing to prevent oil leaks. I drove my car just as I used to in the past (took it easy till the engine water temp was just past the 1/4 mark -- mine usually does this in the first 2kms or so) and it hasn't thrown up any error codes. I did come across some real warm 35*C+ days where I was in the city start-stop cycle and also a few cooler 6*C days and am glad to report that the ZF did not struggle at all. In my opinion, it is a mod worth every penny and for a few $$ outlay, it is cheap insurance. I haven't taken the car to a track, so this area is still untested. But, in saying that I did do some 'spirited' driving (about an hours worth in 28*C weather) on a private road in a mate's farm and everything worked like it should. My turbo is still being tuned with the new mods and I have done roughly 550Kms with it with the same kit installed and with the same result (although I did not push it as hard as the NA -- since I did not have a retune). I will update this post once I get my turbo back and get a chance to push it a bit. Cheers, AJ

That's great to know ScatterBrain! ..I was thinking of mounting mine in exactly the same location!...will keep you all posted..

Hey mate, Not sure if I am allowed to post up ebay links. But HERE it is. AJ

Hi guys, Just a quick one. I have recently purchased an external transmission cooler for my ZF in order to bypass the head exchanger on the side of the engine block. I have had issues with the fluids mixing in the heat exchanger in the past on my old BF Ghia and really don't trust it anymore. The transmission cooler kit was purchased from eBay and seems to be a fairly complete kit. I will get some pictures up shortly with the kit installed on my car and I will also provide my opinion once I have put about 1000 Kms of mixed driving on it. Oh, also I am aware of the potential dramas that might come up after bypassing the heat exchanger...in the mean time attached below are a few pictures from the seller's ebay page. Cheers, AJ

Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight...."8k for engine build at TRP" AND "20K SPENT ON MODS AND TUNES" ON TOP! LOL

Hey mate, If the car has been immobilised, the dash would light up as usual. But, when you try starting the car, the red symbol of the hand would start flashing rapidly, indicating immobilisation. As suggested above, check that the battery has charge and that the connections are secure. If that fails, start checking the fuses in the engine bay. Cheers, Phooned

G'Day on dubs, My mate had a similar problem and it turned out to be one of the wires going to the PCM. The insulation had come off the wire and it ended up grounding against the metal. He ended up having to replace the PCM along with soldering and heat shrinking the wire. Hope the problem is not as severe in your case. The PCM is the silver rectangular box in the engine bay, right next to the ABS module. I have circled it in the picture below. Cheers, Phooned

+1 for Nulon. Similar results to others -- car runs quieter and turbo sounds heaps better!

Worm...tried FTG mate..but they want to sell me the whole bar! ...so yea...here I am!! lol

Hi guys, Just a quick question for all you experts out there. I have recently purchased a genuine plastic GT bar with the cut out for a tow bar. Since I dont have a tow bar, I would like to get a cover to fill this cut out. Now what is the best way to do this? Can I perhaps modify an XR6 turbo tow bar insert to suit the GT bar or is it better to fill it with fiberglass and smooth it out? The bar needs to be resprayed anyway, so no worries there. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers, AJ

zayd687 - You just need to remove the butterfly from stock n/a plenum... RHR - What pics are you after??

I have done something similar with my Fairmont Ghia. But instead of slapping on turbo bits though, I simply swapped the motor with a typhoon motor. The fusebox needed replacing, as the Wastegate Control Solenoid (WCS) and Boost Pressure Sesnor (BPS) looms were not there on the stock fuse box (I was told that there are ways around this, but no one seemed to know at the time!!). I initially started gathering parts for a turbo conversion on the stock engine and still have the XR6T MAP sensor available. I will also have the fusebox, ECU and the the third loom (that connects to the PCM) for boost control up for sale shortly as I have replaced all of them to convert to the ZF 6 speed auto. PM me if you need any more info.

Count me in for one of these bad boys!!...PM me once this goes ahead!

Nizpro is located in Bayswater and Pitlane is in Frankston...both S.E. Melbourne. Both have great knowledge with these cars. Like I said previously however, for me it came down to the customer service experience and while Nizpro are good, Pitlane goes one better IMHO...

Hey Paul!..its been a while...how is it going mate? How is the car and cooler going? It can most definitely be done!..it just takes some force to bend it out of the way. When I did mine, I lined it up and used a jaw grip wrench. When it comes to tuners, from my experience it comes down to personal preference. Nizpro are good and they did a great job with my tune. Don't get me wrong, they definitely know their stuff and are arguably the best tuner for the BA/BF/FG range. In recent times however, I have been dealing with Pitlane and find their level of service more suited to my needs. Cannot comment on their tune (not yet!) however. Cheers, AJ

[quote name='GR8XR6' date='29 April 2010 - 01:03 AM' timestamp='1272463380' post='1003969'] Any interest in turbo actuators. They are adjustable 10-14 psi. Default set at 14. [/quote] I am keen on this actuator. PM me if this GB goes ahead. Also, you still planning to come around and pick up the gear shifter?

Hey f-wolf, Thanks for the diagram mate. It is much appreciated. Would you also happen to have a diagram for a 4 speed auto in a I6T? Cheers, AJ

Hi guys, I am in the process of converting my BA Ghia to a ZF 6 speed auto. I have spare looms (pretty much every loom) from both a 4 speed BA and a 6 speed BF auto. I am hoping someone will be able to post up some wiring diagrams, to help me figure out what wires are need from the BF loom, to make the ZF work. The most obvious thing I noticed was that the shifter connector needed replacement (no surprises there!). I need to find out where this loom runs to as well. Rather than re-wiring the WHOLE car, I would like to give this a go first (there is that much wiring in a Ghia - it is enough to drive a scientist mad without wiring diagrams!! lol). I am happy to splice/join wires as it will be professionally done. I basically just need to figure out what is required and what goes where. Without a wiring diagram however, I am unable to proceed, as it is as good as driving blind! PS: I have looked into getting a BF Ghia loom. However, it has proven to be near impossible to find a wrecker who has any loom for a BF Ghia with a ZF. :( Any help would be much appreciated. Let the fun begin! Cheers, AJ

If ^^^ don't want it, I am keen on the kit. Let me know if you want to sell it!

The coils are on the top of the motor (not on the side like the XH/EA-AU). You just need to get the crossover and coil cover off. The hardest part of changing the plugs/coils is getting to the screw right at the back of the motor (on the coil cover). No need to rip off the heat shield, unless you plan to retorque the manifold bolts...Cheers, AJ.