45T-XR

It sounds like the tuners didnt get much notice either, they are just the poor bastards having to deal with customers, she on sct

Sorry I meant if you add these together and get a negative number you have a leak.

I know nothing about tuning but a little bit about b series, with my scan tool I can log iac kam1 and iac trim, if you add these parameters together you have a vacuum leak somewhere, im not sure if it relates to your timing issue but it could definately effect your idle stability, I havent tried to see if the xcal can log those parameters, I just remember there was a tsb ford sent out, it was heaps quicker than using vacuum guage. My apologies to luke and I h8toads if im out of my depth haha

What price did you get quoted, I rang turbos australia yesterday and got quoted $1850inc+delivery. Its hard to chase a cash deal in gladstone, no one decent here. If anyone has a second hand one in good nick let me know but id prefer a new one

I cant be certain, but I think that was lees intention, to find out how tough these new engines are, Im assuming they couldnt get the headstuds in due to the back of the engine sitting under the wiper cowl, although its been ages since I had the rocker cover off and cant remember exactly how far the studs would be being between 5 and 6 there might be enough room though. As I think they just used the smaller head studs that keep the stock holes in the block. Could be wrong though

I like where your going with it, do you mean 2002? My first xr was a mercury silver november 2002 ba mk1 xr6t sedan with 5sp manual, factory leather interior and premium sound with colour screen and factory 18s. The big 5 spoke ones, all I did was take the centre muffler out, slam it anf put a awc djr bobtail wing onim trying to find a set of those to swap my 20s that I have on my bf ute now. Man I miss my old car :( Shame about your screws, hope it all gets going real soon, good luck and though im sure you will, keep us posted

Not chasing anything too extreme, Im not interested in building a dyno queen, my car used most weekends cruising and regular test and tunes, not even interested in actually competing really, I prefer just heading down the 1/4 to see what positive or negative effects the changes I make on the car. But If I had to but a figure on it, I want all the hardware to achieve about 650rwhp on the power tune just to shut the Expensive Daewoo wankers down on the "occasional" dyno day and with a smaller/altered tune to suit a quick quarter time, My goal for the quarter is low 11s on full street tyres, currently 12.2 at 119 full street trim including full tank of juice, hard lid and stock dunlops, im aware that my mph is relatively good so Im pretty sure my puss 2.0 60" time is the reason I havent seen a high 11 with my current setup. I will look at getting some KU36's or something similar, But will never go slicks. Some people hang sh*t on my for running street tyres but in my opinion to have a quick street car, a true one, all you should have to do it is drop the tyres pressure or not even do that. So basically, just chasing a reliable relatively tough street car in street trim. Thanks to a few guys on here im also researching tuning etc and will have HP software within a couple weeks, as I want to keep everthing on my car built by me, and the tuning is the part missing currently, so eventually I will have that covered also. My apologies for the long winded explaination, Like I said im keen to monitor your progress, I know builders dont like giving away their secrets but im genuinely interested to hear how your engine peforms/sounds especially after I saw that you are particular about noises etc. Considering my car is street car I want all those things for mine, I want it drive nice, idle nice, pull harder than a 15 year old and feel like it should have come from the factory.

Mate, great write up, I will be following this closely, ive put my deposit down for my 698 bits through tuff car parts. Just need to measure up my spare block to double check a few dimensions before I order the pistons. Cant wait to see how yours goes mate. have a you got a turbo upgrade in mind to suite the new engine? Im still unsure what to do when I finish mine, probable run the motor in with my current setup then upgrade, turbo, exhaust and fuel system later. P/west 2.3 kit should be suficient for my power goals Again, great work mate

How many k's did your car have on it, I have seen standard cars do it also, but not to the extent of 3 teeth out or not a I6 engine anyway.One thing I dont know is If there are a free-spinning head assy, ratter might be able to verify that one but I havent seen too many engine running a timing chain that are actually free spinning. As sometimes jumping a one or several teeth can cause it to run like sh*t but otherwise cause little or no damage. If the timing chain were to fail, that would be a different story. Also at what km service interval has your car been serviced, although it is problem occuring more commonly, Im wondering If a relatively large amount of kms between oil changes would contribute to the failure, as in having fairly contaminated/burnt oil could contribute to the deterioration of the plastic timing chain guides.. Just a though. I know plastic probably isnt the most durable material either. In the early BA quad cam motors we had dramas with the standard timing chain tensioners as they were plastic with a oring seal incorporated into then, they used to get a bad timing chain rattle on start up as the orings used to fail and leak oil pressure, releasing the tension off the chain, the rattle would stop usually as engine oil pressure built up. The revised timing chain tensioners were steel, but I cant remember if they had a gasket or if they were a metal/metal seal. As the mating face of the steel tensioners were highly polished from memory. I cant remember if the I6 kept the plastic tensioner or if they went to a steel one also, Its been years since I had one apart. Guess I will find out when I build mine. Generally you dont have to pull the timing cover to check the timing. The chain has 3 yellow links from memory, used to set the timing when it goes together. Now the links move around as the motor turns but the links line up with their corresponding marks on the cam/crank gears every 34 or 37 engine revolutions, (my apologies its been way too long since I worked there) Its another handy way to double/triple check your handy work. I used to be a bit paranoid though when I was working on customer cars. I will try go back through my apprenticeship literature and confirm the number of engine revs

Check for leaks like the boys already said, but a good idea would be to actually use the Xcal to check for DTC's It will tell you exactly what is triggering the MIL.

that's it mate, I was launching in 2nd gear about 2,200rpm, best I could get was a 2.0 60" next time out I will launch in 1st gear and be nice on the throttle and see what happens

Apparantly he only wants one car and only tunes one day a week per rota off, or that's what he wants, he was too busy. He should just open a shop FFS, Id move to mackay in a heartbeat

Yeah zf auto bud

Exactly right, I did all my own work and dave gave me a preloaded tune so I could drive the 5hrs up to mackay, dave isnt interested in doing mechanical work really, hes a f*ckin wizard with tuning though, forget what you have been told/read. He will ask you what goal you have then he will tekl you the cheapest/best way to get it.

Cheers for the info, mainly for my vehicle, bf1 xrt ute with zf box. Not interested really in the gearbox tune, im currently making 485rwhp but plan to build and engine, nothing too crazy power wise just want a bulletproof 650rwhp street car. I will rebuild the box when the motor gets done

Hi all, just chasing more info from the guys that tune with hp, my car is currently tuned with sct and im keen on getting into tuning, unfortunately there is no way to get ahold of the sct software unless you have a business and dyno, that was the response from herrod, so im looking into running hp as it is easily obtainable. Just curious as to what issues if any have been encountered, ive heard that sometimes there are issues with injector scaling etc so just wondering also how far power wise hp has been used in ba-fg xr6 turbo. Thanks in advance

My throttle body has sh*t itself, got one coming off ebay, just hoping it gets here in time or I might have to pay the $500+ for a new one

Good Luck with your goal bud, will see you out benaraby on the 21st, hoping to crack 11s on dunlops so fingers crossed. Need a bit more timing with the water meth and that should see my mph over 120 hopefully

Yeah that thing is an animal, last I heard it was making 1046rwhp with more left. But when he run his 9 sec pass he was running a less powered tune, which is farely common for big hp cars. But that youtube video of it at palmyra in the burnout comp was insane, the rate that motor spins up it impressive. Im interested to see the vac pump setup that went it due to the cams that went in, wouldnt have like to be driving it the moment he realised the engine wasnt producing enough vacuum for the booster to work. Definately would have been a pucker moment.

How many 9sec b series utes are there so far? I can only think of kents phantom one tuned at cpv

I have never raced anywhere else but I have heard the same thing, its just like a dyno though in terms of relativity, as long as you use the same one for testing its all good, keeping variables to a minimum. But at the end of the in my opinion a quick street car as in fully road legal that adr approved would be few and far between. There are guys That ran on other forums saying they have 10sec street cars, but running slicks, stripping your interior taking sway bars off is not my definition of a street car. Although maybe next time I should lose my hard cover and run only a quarter tank of juice instead of full, might get me into the 11s on street tyres. Kirky congrats on the 10.5 that's tough. I missed your run as I cracked the sh*ts and left when that red ve took a dump on the track. In your opinion is there much left in your current setup?

Mines just done this also bf 2005. Also p2110 and etc light with a miss fire, going to pull the tb apart and have a look, I had a drama with my water meth recently, think it might have corroded internally

Also can you uses the upgraded clutches for a rebuilding these, as in are the thickness of the plates and clutches the same? If so they should go straight in. But if this was done will the shift pressures/etc have to be modified to suit the altered slip characteristics of the new clutches?

Great thread mate, looking to rebuild mine also soon, Be interesting to see far theses can be pushed with the new input shaft and ZF software.

Yeah good stuff. According to the website the meet is the 21st of next month