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Small bit of scotch for Anzac Day BBQ. Will let the boys cut off and cook their own steaks.

Just completed and passed a certificate 4 in “Electrical installations in hazardous areas” HV/LV/ELV and certification of existing hazardous areas with the pathway to Diploma well and truly started it was without a doubt one of the hardest assessments ever due to the risk associated with installations and having the ability to now certify others Pretty happy with myself

Thought I would post up here about my car on this forum after stalking for quite a while and becoming quite active on the "Other Forum" Have had my 2013 FG Xr6T for nearly two years now and have slowly been accumulating a few modifications for it. Had the final bits of work done a few weeks ago at MonstaTorque and managed to pull a final figure of 400.7rwkw. Que comments of hub dyno and manual The route I've taken with the car and many parts can probably be looked at as unconventional and excessive. As a young bloke about to venture into his first mortgage, I decided to spend the extra whilst I can afford it and build a relatively reliable base and future proof as far as more mods go as I plan to keep the car for a very long time. Unfortunately have not had the extra cash to do my oil pump gears or timing chain gear so am very aware of my need to stay away from my limiter and even have a soft cut in place (Although I've been told with this amount of torque these cars like to push straight through this) Bit of info on the car: - 2013 FG Xr6T - Full poverty pack - 6 Speed manual -Bought dead stock with 56,000kms from a single female owner 2 years ago Since then I've done a few mods over the past 2 years, totaling to the following now at 75,000kms - IMS Twin Bush Diff Hat - Wavetrack Diff Centre w/ aftermarket half shafts - Shockworks Coilovers - Single Piece Carbon Fibre Tailshaft - Malwood Opt3+ w/ short shifter - 4" X-force Stainless Exhaust - Jonny Tig 1800HP Stealth Black Intercooler w/ turboside airbox and battery relocations - Crow Race Valve Springs - KPM 1000HP In tank dual pump fuel system - 58mm Billet wheel Machined into my existing 3576 turbo, rear housing ported and a 40mm flapper fitted - 1000cc Injectors and custom tune with Ngauge interface - Copy F6 Bumper - 19" FPV Twisties - DJR Bobtail Spoiler Much like so many have done in the past with their threads, I want to be able to share any info I have on my current list of mods in the hopes it aids with people future mod choices. Any questions feel free to ask. Its gonna be a bit hard to post some photos as I'm writing this on my lunch break but will post a few via Tapatalk below Some quick photos from my phone

I’m about to get moving on a few things with my car and so thought it would be worth starting a thread. Calling this a build thread is probably a bit ambitious – more just my own history of what maintenance and upgrades I’ve performed and why. It is good to document this for myself, and hopefully it is of interest or use to someone along the way. Must be a few people who want better than stock, but not looking for a 600kW monster. My job is mainly human resources, so anything I tackle is a bit limited. The car is a BA XR6 Turbo in Lightning Strike (or ‘primer’ for short’). I bought the car in 2015 from a bloke in Sydney (I’m in Canberra) after a bit of searching – I was basically looking for something stock that had hopefully had a relatively easy life. The car had been a country car for most of its life and had about 125,000km. I really knew nothing about turbo cars at that point. So far in terms of basic repairs and maintenance I’ve done myself: -New NGK coils and plugs (this brand have been fine on stock boost, but will probably go genuine next time) -New high pressure power steering line – twice. First one was a Repco one that only lasted two years. Second one is a redesigned one from Ultimate Power Steering that allows the o-ring to be changed without replacing the whole line. -Full set of radiator and heater hoses -Front pads and rotors -Sway bar bushes, various front end bushes -Spigot gear in the rear driver’s side door lock actuator -All the usual stuff – coolant changes, brake fluid flushes, engine oil and filter every 5k. Trying to look after it and make it last. -Probably a few other things that caused plenty of swearing at the time but I can no longer remember Had a few other fixes that I've had done professionally: -New turbo!! Blocked oil feed killed the first one. Good news – housings were OK. Bad news – I’d bought an Earl’s filter and braided oil feed line a week earlier and hadn’t fitted it yet. Got a genuine Garett CHRA. A couple of mechanics have since said to me that it has some sort of upgraded core (ceramic bearings??) that have been available the last couple of years. Haven’t yet grabbed any part numbers and checked it out further. -A few bushes here and there (centre diff bush, outer upper rear control arm bushes) -Tailshaft centre bearing The stuff I have improved/added/upgraded so far: -Twin gauge pod with oil pressure and boost/vacuum -AEM wideband controller/gauge with sensor in the dump -King springs and KYB shocks all round (this combo feels much better than the, admittedly old, stock gear). -Braided water line for turbo -Tyres – Goodyear Eagle F1 Directional. Great set of rubber. Replaced the Dunlop Sport SP3000s that wre on it – out and out the worst type I have every driven on, except for maybe the Sumitomos I had on a rental i30 once! -Cut a hole in lower half of the airbox – not sure it does anything, but it sounds slightly better and it was free -Chrome Fairmont interior door handles – they make a nice difference to the interior of a BA -3 inch 100 cell cat into twin 2.5 inch X-Force system. Sounds decent, definitely comes on boost better, but has a habit of wanting to knock on the diff cradle once everything gets warm -Towbar – bought a secondhand factory unit. Kept the wiring plug in the boot for a cleaner look. -A couple of power ports for a Bluetooth handsfree kit and dash cam Car is now at 165k. The overall plan is to keep the car looking stock-ish and only mildly modified. I’ve been doing a heap of reading with a plan to either getting the car tuned (and at least understanding a bit more about what has been done and what I should expect) or learning to tune it myself. Going to go down the latter path and just picked up the PCMTec software. Should be a good learning experience an I’ll definitely know my car better. I feel like I am picking up the concepts of what I am reading OK so will give it a go. Ready to go in when I next get a few hours free: -PWR trans cooler – got the kit that has the right fittings but no brackets, plus bought some bar and extra hose so I can work out how I mount it all once the bumper is off. Plus a decent flush of the BTR and new filter. -Walbro 255 pump -Bigger intercooler I'll then tune to around 8 PSI, but will leave timing along or only play with it gently. Baby steps here - I want to try some things based on what I'm trying to learn, and see the result but without being stupid and having an additional inspection hole. Learning to tune seems like a good way to work on your car during a Canberra winter! Once I'm feeling like I'm on the right track, I look to upgrade the injectors and turn it up a bit more. I'll go gentle with the timing, and maybe even take a couple of tunes to a dyno with some knock detection gear and see where I'm at. I'm a long way off that though. Brakes will need some work later in the year, so am accumulating bits to go to a 322/328mm setup, with braided lines and reasonable pads and rotors. Should be better than what I've got and sufficient for where I am aiming with the car. Anyway, as I’ve said it will still be a pretty modest thing compared to some of the stuff on this forum. But should be a strong daily, good for the Snowys cruise and best of all will be largely my own work. I may well end up getting it tuned by someone if I struggle to achieve what I want to, but I want to give it a good go myself first. A couple of pics from the day I got it and shortly afterwards:

To keep it on topic, Tonight's menu is wings.

@MattyP offers still there if you want to take my car for a drive and see what you think of the precision 6235.

There's something about fried tomatoes with breakfast, it just works, mushrooms pretty good too..

You do know some fuel will probably leak out this hole....

Breakfast from earlier

Heritage listed cubby at that, 50K

I guess @arronm has a point with his previous comment. If you do decide to turn it up then you'll want the bigger housing. Running this turbo at 450rwkw will leave some in reserve and imho with an external gate, the smaller housing will be ok for that power level. If you're not turning it up then the gen2 gtx3582r might be a better turbo for you because it is still an 850hp turbo and has heaps more housing options. Depending on how you control boost and also depending on the ignition and cam tuning you can bring a turbo on slower or make the car more drivable.

Thanks @FiftyOne that's some good insight, I guess it's looks vs performance. Im going to try a set of wider rears and see if that works first then I guess I'll need to revise the suspension height if that fails. @camo86TI tried new revalved bilsteins, and different bushes etc which did nothing, half leaf got rid of it 100%, can accelerate and dump the clutch now and just spins compared to a trampoline like motion previously

There was 3 of them 2 young and 1 old. ALL got out of the car. Young guy saw my radar detector and pointed it out. After I got a good talking to by the older of the young guys and then the old cop, I explained how I can mark school zones , set speed limit, monitor my speed as the radar has GPS and it has safety alerts for roadworks and alerts for emergency vehicles (great for ambulance), they though my model of radar detector was actually good. Then the old guy whispered to the young guy and old mate went and sat in the back of the car. Then a 10 minute conversation on turbo mods and power etc. Young guy was foaming at the mouth when I popped the bonnet. Saw my overboost valve and said you cant vent blowoff valve to atmo. I explained I dont have a blowoff valve , this valve lets out boost if the pressure becomes to great. I nearly fell over because I thing they actual understood what I was saying. End of story was, dont drive like that where you can be seen. And since then I Really pick my moments.

Lucky I put on my OLD MAN glasses and got let off with a warning. I think in reality they were impressed with the drift up the curved highway on ramp....

that's a "closed" group, so you can't see the post unless you're a member of the group on FB. Try taking some screenshots and uploading the pics and then linking the pics here for those of us who have no time for FB or are not a part of the group

no wuz, muzz

Granted its free flowing but the big jigger moves some juice. I'll be running it at 18v (it's at 14.4 in the video) that'll give me aprox 420ltr/hr at 84psi fuel pressure

Getting there, But of a hold up with some fuel proof heat shrink I ordered but once that arrives the wholebang can go onto the tank for good..

Battery relocation version 2 done. Optima D34 yellow top, optima D34 tray, Blue Sea isolator, 50mm2 double insulated welding cable, 10x50mm lugs, cable glands, a bit of black conduit and a few lengths of heatshrink. Should have done it this way the first time around. Ran the cables through the cab via the rear drivers side grommet and out the front through the grommet behind the passenger wheel well.

Tree all chopped up and stacked on the nature strip. Insurance contacted - claim processing started. I think that's enough effort for today - time for a beer

looks like contents need to be claimed as well

8-9+ marble wagyu - am sure the cow had a better life than I have. Will be cutting mine off the night before, salting it and leaving it in the fridge overnight For you @Puffwagon

super clean looking, Andy

raspberry cordial goodness

Me to. Tomorrow though. BA F6 and VE bommodore

That’s a nice sheet and the 6235 is the only precision I like for the XR6T !

just returned home from NZ. drove from wellington to Auckland. beautiful scenery. twisty roads made the back seat passengers sick so I wouldnt want to be in the back as a passenger hahah the weather was mostly ok, but frustrating as sh*t its sunny, then cloudy, then raining, then sunny then cloudy, then raining again. goes like this for most days all day. and be warned, the locals or tourists just pull out in front of you while on any road, usually the 100 k zones, making you brake hard and almost clean them up. I lost count how many times they did this, they just dont give a sh*t and dont accelerate fast to get up to speed. and they dont advertise there speed cameras. everywhere and in all the 50kay zones. its 50 almost everywhere!!!!. painful.

Geeze this turned to [emoji90] quickly. Didnt realise showing a car would turn into a pissing contest so quickly [emoji23]

We built it. Was a journal bearing 6266 then we machined it to a 67 front wheel from china after the front housing came loose. 240kmh also isn't 250 though either.

I searched but couldn't find a guide, so took photos as I muddled through doing this myself. The link below is a somewhat streamlined guide. https://imgur.com/a/eVVZ7

what to do today...........hmmmm sweet fark all

yeah, that's certainly an extreme improvement over HECS/HELP debt ahha

It's actually pretty relevant to my job, so it's kinda like working. Getting paid to study and having work pay for the course also is pretty great, if you ask me

Don't worry puff. I will sort him out.

Uncontrolled release of the harmonic balancer

NO...... You dont want bling. You want everything BLACK. COPS luv it cause they dont SEE it.

don't you guy have some sort of alternate contact method because forum is (or something like that... )

Hi all, I'm chasing a vibration in mine also (TTG), which has been there to some extent it's whole life. I got my Territory with about 40k on the clock, now has 150k. The vibration I have is noticeable more at particular speeds (50-60km/h) but somewhat at all times ( can feel it through the car as a whole, not just the steering and can see in in the rear seats and rear view mirror) the main cause seems to be the rear tailshaft as the vibration is visible (at the centre bearing) when run up to speed in the air. There may also be other vibrations from other area's, but until I sort the rear shaft I won't know. I'll try to update on how it goes with the tailshaft sorted and what ends up being involved. Cheers Brent.

There is a good reason why people lock the cams, the effort to dial in the speed density maps is about 100x less. If they aren't your cams, it isn't worth the R&D effort to get the VCT working with a drivable result. As unless you are reselling those cams regularly you will never recoup your R&D costs. Though if you do spend the time to get the VCT working, there are good gains to be had. To explain the difficulty in doing it from scratch it takes 3 engineers at Ford 25 weeks to dial in their tunes.

heya guys thought id do an update on my build as its going. so I ended up going 6 speed manual. conversion was very very easy. wiring was easy (I have reverse lights) only problem I came across was the centre bearing OD being different. anyways long story short I ended up getting a yellow sticker so in the process of getting this back on the road. vehicle is getting a few changes to comply and be registered and also for extra power after registering. Full spool is coming out and am replacing with a Harrop Truetrac. standard tailshaft will be removed and will be upgrading to a DBS custom tailshaft. 1.00AR rear housing will be getting replaced with a 1.15AR housing(due to rear housing causing restriction on last tune) Brakes are being changed to be more suitable for the power. picking up a set of Brembo 6 Piston front calipers with 355mm front discs and Brembo 4 Piston rear calipers with 330mm discs. once reregistered going to be doing the last tune for this setup. aiming for low 900rwhp at around 30psi. this will be the last tune on this vehicle as injectors only have another 15-20% left. also a few old suspension bushes will be replaced to improve handling. 2002 Ba XR6 Turbo 320rwkw @16psi (old tune) 437rwkw @22psi 1263nm of torque BTR 4 Speed Auto 590rwkw @ 25psi current tune T56 T56 Manual out of BF Xtreme Button twin plate Malwood Short Shifter Malwood Heavy Duty Alloy clutch master cylinder Malwood Braided clutch hose CrowCam Heavy Duty Valve Springs and Retainers Mahle Forged Pistons (20" Oversize) Scat Forged H beam Rods Billet Oil Pump gears ACL Race series bearings MLSR Head Gasket ARP Head Studs Precision 6766 1.00AR (1.15AR coming soon) 6Boost Hightmount Manifold Bosch 1600ccc Injectors Plazmaman 044 Twin Surge Tank Plazmaman Fuel Rail Turbosmart 2000 Fuel Pressure regulator Plazmaman Plenum Custom intercooler piping Turbo Smart 50mm External Wastegate 6Boost High mount manifold Freshly setup head including new valve steam oil seals, valve guides etc Battery relocation to rear Plazmaman 1200hp tube and fin intercooler Plazmaman full intercooler piping Plazmaman cold air intake 52mm Heavy Duty Alloy Radiator Custom Dump pipe Xforce 3.5inch hiflow cat stainless Xforce 3.5inch cat back stainless Walbro intake fuel pump Sct x3 flash tuner Whiteline 30mm adjustable sway bar with adjustable links Whiteline 22mm adjustable sway bar with adjustable links Xzy super sport coilovers Nolathane differential bushes 4.11 Diff Gears Fullspool diff center(removed now Harrop truetrac Protex street slotted and cross drilled front rotors(replaced with Brembo 6 piston front calipers 355mm slotted rotors) Protex street slotted and cross drilled rear rotors(replaced with Brembo 4 piston rear calipers 330mm slotted and x drilled rotors) Trw pads all round(going QFM with new Brembo Setup King wheel evolve 20x8.5 front 20x10 rear 225x35x20 front 275x35x20 rear 20% window tint Dewinged 8000k hid kit Alpine cda137ebt head unit Alpine mrf600 4 channel Alpine mrx m240 monoblock 2 x Rockford Fosgate T2D212 Soundstream 40 FARAD capacitor Sound stream ported box Stinger 0 gauge wiring Rockford fosgate T3169S Rockford fosgate T169

brakes all done truetrac next weekend :D

Here's one I prepared earlier.

we're all winning

Breakfast fry up [emoji3]

as the GFB needs a pressure sensor reading, it can adjust to the desired boost. The problem with this method is it is just masking the actual problem and you can risk running out of injector and grenading the engine if you get to a boost level that the current hardware cannot support. Definitely need to take it somebody who knows how to tune these cars and get them to ensure that things won't end in tears.

I've scanned a page from the Ford workshop manual for you in PDF form, I suggest everyone read this service bulletin BA-BF-FG-CHASSIS-DRIVELINE-004-384 DIFF BUSH FLOW CHART.pdf