Just installed a 3584 gen 3

[Nick_is_not_sus]

Yesterday installed a new psr3584 gen3 with t51r mod and 1.15 AR. There was no where to run the wastegate line on the psr housing so I have plumbed into the inlet.

I'm am running a 50mm progate and screamer but the new turbo has the 10psi actuator (Only there for cert then I'm welding it shut). The external wastegate is .9bar or 13psi. Gave its first boot today and it didn't start boost in first till about 5k rpm and the wastegate is opening at .5bar.

Is it ok to take boost to the waste from the inlet or should I tap into the charge pipe near the housing. Will boost be pushing open the flapper gate cause lower boost, cause the external is still opening? I'm sure with a tune and the new injectors they can get boost to come on more efficiently or is this going to always be laggy?

[Puffwagon]

So you've got 2 wastegates right now? That's fine but the internal one probably needs more preload if it's doing nothing until 5000. That wastegate might be open at the moment. Another thing to check is the fire ring is installed on the external gate. It's an extra bit that goes in between the wg and the wg dump tube. Finally you will have to install a boost reference into the turbo comp housing or the intercooler piping. You cant run a line to the intake and expect it to have decent boost control. Control is the key word, if you aren't running electronic control it'll be fine.

 

You should have some positive boost by 2200 or so and it should be lit up by 3500 give or take. Temp and exhaust design has a massive effect on spool time so these are only rough numbers.

[Nick_is_not_sus]

As odd as it sounds theres a reason 2 WG's I have the stock WG is for a modification cert here in NZ,

I had the turbo in and out a few times clocking the core and the housing, once that was done I set the preload. not sure if I did it right, I disconnected and flapper and and adjusted so 3/4 of the eye was showing over and stretched it over. its been a long time but I think that's how you set them? isnt it between half and 3/4 over lap?

boost was really late and the EW did not sound as agressive as it use to. possible internal gate still pushing open? since its a 10psi spring?

 

checked the fire ring couldntt see evidence of a leak, had it on the hoist and cant feel or hear anything coming out of the screamer pipe.

 

you think the boost reference line from the turbo to the solenoid to the manifold isn't reading properly and causing this issue? 

would it be better to run it open loop.. safely? till I get it a nipple tigged onto the IC pipe. which I'll do tomorrow at work if I can.

 

I'm still building another engine, this is still a unopened FG F6, tuned what sort of power do you think I will make safely with mods that been done? 3584 gen3, 1650cc bosch injectors, walpro 525LPh, adjustable boost controlled fuel pressure reg, 3.5" exhaust, no cat or centre muffler, 50mm progate and a 450x420x100 intercooler

 under lap should I say

[Puffwagon]

It's fine with 2 wg, do what you gotta do, no judgment here. The one with the lower boost spring will do the boost control and the other one will open if you reach it's spring pressure. The way you set the preload is good enough, you might want to check that it all worked out the way you thought it did. For whatever reason the flap might be open a bit and causing it to be lazy. You might have the wrong spring in the external gate, something to consider. The boost reference wont affect how long it takes to come on boost, you want short lines to the solenoid for more responsive control. This is purely how quick the controller can change the boost, nothing to do with how quick the turbo comes on boost. Obviously you can bypass the solenoid for diagnosis.

 

All them bits on a hub dyno with E85 should see you making 600rwkw on about 28psi give or take. I would keep a stock engine under that somewhere, up to you how crazy you want to go and how gentle your tuner feeds in the power.

[Nick_is_not_sus]

Well time to come back with my tail between my legs. Now the cars stone car. The internal waste was flopping around I think the reason was rushing things before dark. It appears when I clocked the front housing I never nipped them up. Clocked the housing WG is tight now housing is tight lol and also found what I can use as a boost reference point on the housing bolt. Now to go buy a nipple Haven't driven it yet so I hope that was all it was 

600rwkw ? Standard pump gears (I assume, old owner said they were done but I had no proof) valve springs and head studs? 

[Puffwagon]

That bolt is for a speed sensor and has a different thread than the nipple will have. That thread you can see inside the cover is for the backing plate to cover retainer. Just whack a rag in the compressor cover, drill and tap a thread then yank the rag out along with the swarf. Easy peasy, take ya 5 minutes.

 

That power figure is what the turbo and fuel system etc will support, you will definitely need some valve springs to get there. It's too much for a stock engine imo but there's a few that have made that much. I would just send it to 20psi and see where it lands. It'll be over 400 on 98 and be closer to 500 on E85.

[Nick_is_not_sus]

cheers man, I went to a few hydraulic specialists and couldn't find the right thread for a nipple. so I may just give that a whirl.

Took the car to pulse performance racing engineering and he said just leave it on the manifold its not going to make much of a difference although preferably between the housing an cooler is best. 

 

Cars boosting nice now rolling in first boost comes on hard at 4k and hits the limiter almost instantaneous. but one rolling boost in first gear after I hit the limiter then wouldn't boost (p1227 manfacurer control) I cleared it it was fine again. it use to do it every now and again once I had removed the cat and added the EWG.

 

Also, another question reading through PCMtec forums. Gareth ar PPRE said I should be able find prefabricated tune for what I have had done and flash the pcm to be safe and bring it in and he can touch it up. and that a tune with pcmtec HPtuners etc are a hassle to tune and slow because adjustments are done with the car off where as a haltech can have adjustments while the cars running.

I seen your name on the PCMtec fourm the and just wanted to ask if you know they have premade tunes?

[Puffwagon]

PCMTec just do the software, they don't provide tuning services. They have much shorter flash times than HP Tuners, it can be as quick as 10 seconds sometimes. If you are already able to drive the car, just drive it to the tuner and get them to sort it.

[Nick_is_not_sus]

Thanks man, appreciate your help. everything seems sorted. now I just need to get it tuned 🙂

[Tom Tucker]

So you've been hitting limiter without a tune? Checks out