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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure
Posted

Lemme find a link so I can be sure I'm not talking out my arse...

Castrol Australia - NetLube

Use the drill down

cars -> FPV -> F6 Typhoon

For those too lazy to play at home

CastrolSite.png

  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 8m 14d
Posted

.... and the historical service life of a well serviced Ferrari engine before major rebuild, in reality is....? (40-50K km?)

.... and the historical service life of a typical well serviced XR6T engine before major rebuild in reality is....? (250K++ km?)

  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 17y 9m 13d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

maybe true, and again, I'm no oil expert but thought the article in question was about general oil principles.

from what I understand, when the motor is stone cold even a 0w-40 oil is too thick but will flow better than a 10w-40 (but not ten times better, so the 10w is still fine).

perhaps the reason ford doesn't recommend a 0w-xx oil is because of the ridiculous price they would feel the need to charge for at a service?

at any rate, I've still got some Nulon 10w-40 in stock so I'll use that up and then make a decision.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 7m 2d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

Of course Castrol recommends 0w-40 for the FPV. The only oil they have in that grade is their expensive 'Edge' synthetic oil that they claim is for performance engines, therefore they wouldnt recommend a taxi-spec 15w40 oil, not because its worse for your car, but becasue they need to make money from car enthusiasts who care about oils. Look up ANY performance car on their site and they will recommend the same oil.

At start-up, what is the difference between an XR6 NA and a Turbo? None, yet Castrol recommend two different oils.

I'll stick with what the makers of my engine recommend. 10-15w40.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Posted

Pretty much the difference between the castrol and say Nulon or any other top brand oil is how quickly it starts to degrade. I find that the magnetic will start to blacken after 5000K whereas the Nulons and Motul etc dont break down as quickly hench why you pay more for them.

  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure
Posted

Interesting points, though I'm pretty sold on the 0 providing more protection at startup than the 10/15's - perhaps they recommend that due to the driving habits of "performance" car owners - taxi spec car owners don't rev as far in general so can live with worse startup as it is cheaper to produce that oil - I assume. That would explain the different recommendations for essentially the same engine?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 3m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

Its been suggested that a mineral based oil is used for the 1st 15,000 kms of an engines life rather than a synthetic oil.

I plan to do my first change at around 500km, do Ford do an oil change at the 3000km service?

I then plan another change at 7,500km before its dealer service at 15,000.

My question is which mineral oil to use?

I intend using nulon from 15000 onwards, with changes every 7,500.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Northern South Australia
Posted

My dealer said they dont even run a mineral oil in the cars from factory. It is semi synthetic right from the word go apprently so dont know how that affects run in. And no the 3000k service does not include an oil change.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 3m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

So do ya reckon it'd be ok to use fully syn from the start?

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