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Budget build for power, max power on f6 components?


Sabo

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Mind me asking your mods? For mid 300s, what would bring it up to 400rwkw? A high grade intercooler and full exhaust?

 

I am in somewhat disebeleif to see 380+ from JETURBO, that is ridiculous power off just a dump and cat and factory cooler!!

 

Seems 400rwkw is the most the ZF Autos will play with before you start breaking sh*t? Is this where the brick wall of factory parts end on these machines?

Edited by Sabo
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  • Member For: 14y 11m 20d
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Making the power on a dyno sometimes is fairly easy, but some cars make power right at the top of the curve and nowhere else.

Reliability can also be an issue.

Rather than a power figure maybe consider what you want to do with your car.

A car that makes 300kw but comes on nice and early will often feel faster than a car with 400kw that has a lot of lag and comes on late.

I think once you work out what your aim is with your car then you can work out how to achieve that.

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29 minutes ago, Sabo said:

Mind me asking your mods? For mid 300s, what would bring it up to 400rwkw? A high grade intercooler and full exhaust?

 

I am in somewhat disebeleif to see 380+ from JETURBO, that is ridiculous power off just a dump and cat and factory cooler!!

 

My car has 3.5"dump pipe using stock cat back, turbo side intake, piping kit, valve springs makes 360rwkw.

 

You can make around 380rwkw with exhaust and cooler on 98, if you want 400rwkw plus you'll need E85 or different turbo.

Edited by shaness8
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49 minutes ago, Sabo said:

I am in somewhat disebeleif to see 380+ from JETURBO, that is ridiculous power off just a dump and cat and factory cooler!!

Wasn't just a dump and cat. He had 62 pound injectors and a e85/98 fuel mix and 20psi of boost. That's the bare minimum. It made 408rwkw? once. After that power drops off because of heatsoak from the stock cooler. 

Still he managed to drag he arse to heathcote from SA run an 11 and drive home without killing it. 

400rwkw and up the zf will need a new input shaft. Billet or cryo whatever works for you. 

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I got gifted a HDI cooler kit and ummed and arghed about putting it in my car. Not cos it wouldn't support the power I'm after, but the amount of cutting required to make it fit.

I didn't do that to my G series, I sure as hell wouldn't chop up the front of a F6. I sold it on.

It is a very nicely made kit, but in terms of fitment, its a cock up, they've got a generic cooler and "tweaked" it to fit a falcon, thus the butchering required.

 

My suggestion is to look at the stepped coolers, from cheap to expensive:

 

1) PWR

2) Process West

3) Johny Tig

 

The Intune piping kit should work with all of the above and the best value for money at under $300 delivered, or run the gauntlet with factory plastic until it pops

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Edit: Don't get too caught up with hearsay dyno readouts either, way too easy to fudge numbers and plenty of Bollywood units around.

Choose a tuner, and use their dyno and skills as a benchmark to gauge results, try not to get caught up in hype and other peoples results.

MPH doesn't lie. 

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https://plazmaman.com/shop_itemdetail.php?itemid=78&cate=55

 

could get something from plaz then, full cooler and kit.

 

im bias cause my car has a 1000hp plaz cooler but really the only bit im not happy with is their under battery turboside intake (not included in above kit).

Edited by skidxr6t
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The CAI is average! For the extra $500 to get the battery relo kit it goes along way to saving the turbo and engine imo.

Plus more wasps for less boost :wwww:

As for the OP u have a F6 mate, budget 6-8k do it once and have a smashing 400rwkw ride.

Do it cheap and do it wrong will cost 25k in the end!!!!!!!!!

 

12 hours ago, JETURBO said:

Can't justify spending $1500 on an intercooler....

this will go well :ermm:

Lolsssss hard.

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