I've done 90% of my aut to manual conersion car starts and drives

-ECU changed to a manual 6 speed one out of a BA
-6 speed installed with new heavy duty clutch + flywheel
-Manual tailshaft installed
-Pedals installed and hooked up
-clutch fluid reservoir installed
-shifter installed and selcts gears find
-speedo cable and reverse lights spliced into the 4 speed loom

My issues are
-break lights will not turn off when car is on
-car will not start with the key I have to put it in ignition and cross the relay
-car WILL NOT go over 2.5k RPM
-Blowing a bit of black smoke

NOTES: I had a custom tune on the old ECU and unmarried my SCT Tuner from that and uploaded the tune to the manual ECU SUCCESSFULLY

I had a guy come out and reprogram the ECU to the immobiliser and he said that was all there is to do.
Any Pointers will be greatly appreciated

How did you get the tune onto the new ecu?

I thought Tunes are locked to a specific ecu

Brake lights are going to be something simple to do with the pedal box swap I would think

Did you bridge the wire for the neutral switch. My car is a manual and I'm modifying an automatic harness for my Haltech install. We noted this difference in the harness when we were removing unnecessary wiring today. From memory, it was the two red/green wires and they were beside each other.....

Edited December 19, 201510 yr by HI PSI

How did you get the tune onto the new ecu?

I thought Tunes are locked to a specific ecu

Brake lights are going to be something simple to do with the pedal box swap I would think

when I had the original ECU installed I used the "return to stock" option in the tuner this effectively unmarried the device from any particular ECU but keeps the Custom tune in the SCT memory

you can only unmarry the device 5 seperate times I believe

also I just remembered when I was removing the pedals from the manual car I damaged one of the wires and never patched it up ill have a look into that tomorrow! thanks for the reminder

Did you bridge the wire for the neutral switch. My car is a manual and I'm modifying an automatic harness for my Haltech install. We noted this difference in the harness when we were removing unnecessary wiring today. From memory, it was the two red/green wires and they were beside each other.....

I did not splice the wires myself and as far as I am concerned we did not modify anything else on the loom other than getting a entire manual loom and cut out the speedo wires and reverse lights then we joined them up onto the existing auto loom with the same colors and it worked (surprisingly)

Edited December 19, 201510 yr by Hussydabomb

There lies your problem then... The neutral switch for the auto.....

There lies your problem then... The neutral switch for the auto.....

what problem exactly? why it wont start with the key? or why it wont go over 2.5k RPM?

also could you expand a little on where the wires are located and what you think to do exactly?

don't want to messing with wires again not knowing exactly what im doing? and what exactly does the natural switch do?

thanks for the reply

Neutral switch not being bridged won't allow the car to crank off the key or rev above the neutral rev limit.

Brad's on the money.

Neutral switch not being bridged won't allow the car to crank off the key or rev above the neutral rev limit.

Brad's on the money.

feeling a bit excited now getting closer..

where is the wire exactly?? just find the two red/green wires and join them together?

The neutral switch stops the car from starting in gear.. As I stated earlier, the manual harness is different to the auto harness. The manual one is already has the neutral switch bridged (Joined) and this has not been done in your auto hanress. The car needs to see this circuit for the car the start with the key....

The wires were in the smaller of the two ECU harness plugs that runs to the engine. From memory they are both side by side and were red with a green trace.... Unfortunately, I don't have a schematic to be able to confirm this for you.. Sorry...