Ba Turbo - Cant Remove Manifold Bracket Bolt

[180bfj20det]

Hi guys,

After numerous videos and other forums, I still cant remove the turbo on my BA XR6 turbo (oil supply failure).

There are two options:

1) Remove turbo from manifold.

Problem: I cant get to the turbo manifold stud topmost and closest to engine. I did not remove any of the banjo fittings however. Are there any special tools I should use? I read on thread on here about a special ratchet spanner, but I couldnt find this. The wastegate bracket is clearly obstructive.

2) Remove turbo + manifold together

Problem: Was able to remove dump pipe, all bolts/nuts from manifold, turbo exhaust studs (except as per section 1 above) but just cant get to the bracket that holds the manifold. This bracket sits under the manifold and has two bolts. The one that sits closest to the firewall is so tight it breaks my 3/8 sockets and anything larger wont fit.

Any solutions in particular to approach and tools required?

Edited 13/11/15 09:29 PM by 180bfj20det

[Dez72]

They are very tight and hard to get to. The one closest to firewall is possible to get to from under the turbo with a couple of extensions, I used a kincrome bolt remover and a piece of pipe, as normal sockets rounded off. They were so tight that I thought the studs snapped when they let go. Everyone said to leave the k frame off once removed it does bugger all and makes the turbo a bitch to get off.

[180bfj20det]

I used a kincrome bolt remover and a piece of pipe

Thanks for your response.

What size drive did you use? 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2

By the piece of pipe you used, do you mean you "extended" your leverage by putting a pipe on your ratchet?

Im definitely not putting that bracket back on, if I ever get it off!

[bamk2f6tornado]

It's also heaps easier if you get a mate to help. Can tackle it from the top and bottom. Turns a 30min job into a 30 second one

[Ralph Wiggum]

This is the setup I use-

like this-

If you lucky the studs will back out with the Lock Nuts, if not jump underneath and use a pair of mulitgrips/long nose pliers (I use vice grip LN-6 locking long nose pliers)

to remove the studs. You bork the thread in the process but if you BA turbo has been on as long the stock bracket still being would indicate, they are due to be replacement anyway and are cheap ($40ish From Sonice Performance/MTQ)

[180bfj20det]

Thanks Ralph,

Very helpful pics.

By these pics, you are removing the turbo only (section 1 of my original post) and have removed the wastegate and compressor cover and all the lines to the turbo. This would be great as it avoids removing the bracket initially.

I'd like to give this a go, but I had tried to remove the wastegate - but cant even see the circlip on the actuator rod!

[Ralph Wiggum]

You can remove the complete Turbo I the same manner. The turbo in those pics had failed and I threw it back on the car to take some pics.

Just remove the coolant lines, top oil feed and drain at the sump(pulse intake and exhaust obviously)

Should only take an hour or so. I prefer to remove the turbo from the manifold rather than manifold from the head to save the ally threads in the heads.

[180bfj20det]

So you mean even with the wastegate still attached?

[JVK]

Waste gate actuator still in place, Yes.

If you want to remove the actuator put compressed air in the actuator hose but at only a low level of psi to crack the waste gate open, and with the dump pipe off you can see to clip and remove it

then release the air pressure.

[180bfj20det]

Of course! Thanks Will give it a go