rednose RNS10S Donating Members 2,229 Member For: 17y 8m 12d Gender: Male Posted 12/12/13 03:09 AM Share Posted 12/12/13 03:09 AM (edited) All the trouble and cost of extra plates and certificates, you should have just gone with a bigger cooler and been done with it. Edited 12/12/13 03:10 AM by rednose 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Member 103 Member For: 12y 5m 5d Posted 12/12/13 03:26 AM Author Share Posted 12/12/13 03:26 AM All the trouble and cost of extra plates and certificates, you should have just gone with a bigger cooler and been done with it.Put it this way... I got my $1000 plazmaman cooler which was second hand unused for $150.I already had the plates of metal from some old off cuts so that was free.it took me around 1 hour to cut/paint and an engineers certification which if he approves straight up will only cost me $150. If I have to edit it and come back then it will cost me an extra $150.So at this moment best case scenario I will have only spent $300 completely certified, included in the certification is the front mount itself.I don't feel any of this is a waste of time or money thus far. Not trying to insult you but this "getting a bigger cooler" to solve the issue is neanderthal approach to the solution. Because people are scared to touch the crumple bar doesn't mean it cant be done safely and legally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discostig Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday Donating Members 13,798 Member For: 16y 5m 4d Gender: Male Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure Posted 12/12/13 05:59 AM Share Posted 12/12/13 05:59 AM Once it's done just get it dynoed with the mods as planned, let it cool to same temp and stick something in the cutout section to block it again and remeasure, just out of curiosity! Easy way to compare the effect of the changes (after front bar mod anyway). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotrana Member 2,586 Member For: 21y 29d Gender: Male Posted 12/12/13 08:52 AM Share Posted 12/12/13 08:52 AM I would have welded in some 75 x 25 RHS top and bottom. That would have given you a gap in the middle and some strength. 3mm flat bar is not really strong enough.The main problem with intercoolers is heat soak being too close to the radiator/condenser. There is a company that manufactured/s a combined radiator/intercooler setup which is a bit dumb if it can be avoided.If I was you (now that you have gone this far) I would cut out the whole factory bar out and put in some RHS steel that would allow the intercooler to be positioned away from the hot stuff. I always consider getting the intercooler as far away from hot stuff as possible. Even stepping the bar in towards the engine and having the intercooler in front of the fabricated cross bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FPV TRANNY Im the one and only Donating Members 3,557 Member For: 19y 3m 21d Gender: Male Location: In my house Posted 22/02/14 04:43 AM Share Posted 22/02/14 04:43 AM What was the outcome? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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