stevetjet Legacy Donating Member 29 Member For: 14y 3m 9d Posted 03/10/12 12:29 AM Posted 03/10/12 12:29 AM I bought my FG XR6T with towing in mind. Car and trailer to be towed would be tick over 2000kg. A few noob questions for those with Utes & towing if you guys don't mind:I have the Hayman Reece HD tow bar fitted. I think it said something about self levelling. Sound right? What's it do?Lowering. Anyone lowered and towing my sorta weight? Dont want to go super low. Looking at Pedders springs and reverse eye leafs. Shocks - should I do now too?Trailer brakes. I'm looking at Tilta Trailer out of Qld. They have electric drum brakes. Are these controlled simply from the 9 pin connector or is there additional equipment I need to fit in the car?Thanks in advance
Paulie2256 Legacy Donating Member 7,441 Member For: 17y 10m 8d Gender: Male Location: SE Melbourne Posted 03/10/12 02:02 AM Posted 03/10/12 02:02 AM Not sureIf towing 2000kg regularly I would not lower it at all. The trailer connector should be all you need for trailer brakes.
Wenier Legacy Donating Member 1,736 Member For: 16y 8m 12d Gender: Male Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posted 03/10/12 02:40 AM Posted 03/10/12 02:40 AM I have towed a car transporter and car that would have come into a similar weight as your stating, and my ute is lowered. Only problem I'd see is if the trailer is designed to be hooked on a high towball as the trailer will then be on a downwards angle.Did it fine without any problems (6spd man), however I was towing in the wet and had to stop in traffic on a bridge and start again and needless to say it crabbed for a while trying to sort its traction out and that was with traction control on.With the electric brakes there should be a separate controller that you have connected up and you can change the brake force and also lock them out for reverse I believe. Meant to be alot better than the shunt type system as you can alter the force so if doing a steep downhill crank it up so the vehicle isn't doing all the work.
ms700 Moderating Team 10,170 Member For: 23y 7m 29d Gender: Male Location: Sydney Posted 03/10/12 03:05 AM Posted 03/10/12 03:05 AM Self levelling, or load levelling?
stevetjet Legacy Donating Member 29 Member For: 14y 3m 9d Posted 03/10/12 11:57 PM Author Posted 03/10/12 11:57 PM Self/Load levelling = dunno. I'm thinking the HD bar bolts up to the chassis rails in such a way as to spread the load toward the axle. Rather than just hang off the back of the car lioke a regular towbar would.The stock rear shocks in the ute must be designed to cater for various load too huh? I mean they're gunna bottom out of you put a heap of weight in the tray but they must 'level' somehow for regular loads?I'll get the trailer first and see how it sits level wise. Most car trailers seem to have lower ball height I've noticed.Thanks for the responses guys.
Bellato Legacy Donating Member 2,713 Member For: 15y 11m 10d Posted 04/10/12 01:33 AM Posted 04/10/12 01:33 AM I dunno if it's an issue with stock power but I've heard lowering utes and then even further towing can have effects on the driveline. I think it might have only been an issue in auto but maybe someone can confirm this?
cor33 Member 36 Member For: 14y 6m 28d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 04/10/12 03:23 AM Posted 04/10/12 03:23 AM tow a trailer on a daily basis only about 700kgs that's lowered on 2" blocks. everything seems fine to me. auto turbo
Wenier Legacy Donating Member 1,736 Member For: 16y 8m 12d Gender: Male Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posted 04/10/12 05:50 AM Posted 04/10/12 05:50 AM With the lowered part and then a trailer to add some weight the only thing to consider is driveshaft angle, unlike the sedan with IRS where the CV's come into it, the ute with a live axle seems to accept alot of things that upset a sedan.
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