Girdles?

[xr6t_ute]

I can show you my reciepts for the engine... then youll be the gay one.

[RHR]

OT pls

[stee3]

get he arp stud kit with the girdle ,

the girdle is there to stop cap walk

which happends fairl early , I thought the 698 had the 10 mm girdle with the option of the upgrade to 16mm?

EDIT: well there u go , they dont that surprises me

Are you giving advice on what studs to use because you have done one and you know or is it just an assumption that it will work?

You will not fit a 16mm girdle in one without cutting out the bottom of the sump and dropping the tray lower I garantee you of that and you dont need a girlde that thick either. The 16mm girdles are desighned for dry sup setups which Brad confirmed for me. Even with the 10mm girdle you will not be able to get an APR stud kit to fit under the rear of the sump the nuts are simply too tall. You will end up either using main bolts all around or on the rear 4 caps or you will need to fit the atomic main studs which are a shorter nut and still have to grind the rear of the sump to clear the nuts as well. This is what happened to the last 4 engines I have built using Atomic girdles. This is all done for you if you purchase a complete engine from them. And before someone states it I know you have to grind the sump out to clear the girdle but you will also need to grind out to fit main studs..

Ninka I also noticed you used main studs in you build to hold the girlde and caps down. Was this so you wouldnt have to modify the sump?

[Ninka]

Ninka I also noticed you used main studs in you build to hold the girlde and caps down. Was this so you wouldnt have to modify the sump?

Yes, though I did have to grind a little to allow the BF sump to slide far enough forward to have the back of the engine and the sump sit flush as required, as there was a little interference between the girdle and the aluminium sitting inside from the rear 'U' seal. I removed a little of the surplus aluminium to get it to sit properly, probably only 2-3 mm in an area where there was ample thickness to grind away a little.

Edited 12/06/12 07:54 AM by Ninka

[quadie]

I never stated this was a "bolt up affair", I have the 10mm girdle on my and I ment the atomic bolt kit , im sorry , please forgive me.

[stee3]

Yes, though I did have to grind a little to allow the BF sump to slide far enough forward to have the back of the engine and the sump sit flush as required, as there was a little interference between the girdle and the aluminium sitting inside from the rear 'U' seal. I removed a little of the surplus aluminium to get it to sit properly, probably only 2-3 mm in an area where there was ample thickness to grind away a little.

I had to the same as well Brad insisted that it would bolt on with no grinding and said he had never heard of anyone having this issue. I had it with all 4 engines and now realise I wasn't the only one..

[stee3]

I never stated this was a "bolt up affair", I have the 10mm girdle on my and I ment the atomic bolt kit , im sorry , please forgive me.

Sorry mate didn't mean to come across like that I should of read my reply before posting. Did you strap your motor together yourself?

[quadie]

no , but pulled the sump off to give an internal inspection , and noticed the "ginder massaging" done in the rear

[DREWYZ]

Hey fellas

 

this is my first post so go easy 😂

I’ve always wanted 500hp Ute..yes I know that’s farkn nothing in Barra life 2021 there’s some monster out there.Just freshing up my 08 FG Ute Manual but yes unfortunately im a married man on a budget so eBay is my main source of parts 🤦 with 170km on the clock she’s my daily..I have a few questions.Has anyone run the Barra sump slash plate with there billet heavy girdle some girdle have counter sunken holes some are flat 🧐 I’m running stock bottom end not going crazy with this Biulder I’m talking eBay bargain here… ACL  bearing and got her decked 0.004tho and honed to get rid of small piston ring scratches.Has anyone run there conrod studs again torque to yield,Ford stock then anyone know ruff prices? Has anyone on here run GT3576R stage 2 core ? $700 buck on eBay with a flapper mod housing for $280 your away? My turbine exhaust housing is cracked 😏

 

Mods I’ve purchased 

 

#460 fuel pump with gfb reg

#crow valve springs 
#Head studs and Main studs

#atomic HD timing chain 

#billet oil pump with backing plate and spring

My camshafts are trash hard facing coming off the lobes

Cow or Kelford Cams Stage 1 and 2 Can u tune them with stock ecu? Or do you need helltech ecu

 

sorry for so many questions

[k31th]

You don't even need/want a girdle for 500hp. Stick with the stock setup.

 

Never re-use "to-yield" bolts/studs etc. Always get replacements as you're just asking for trouble if you don't. No idea on price.

 

If your housing is cracked I don't see you getting a flapper mod done one it; e.g. you'll need a new a replacement. Link to $700 GT3575R stage-2 core?

You can tune the stock ECU for cams, it's just tricky and requires a bit of time/effort. Still a lot cheaper to do than buying a haltech.