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  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 8m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne, South Eastern Suburbs
Posted

You'd think that they would beef this section up since the BA models. 10 years on since the BA was released and there is still diff issues.

Im doing the job tonight. will let you all know how I go.

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Simon from XFT here in WA has been fully welding and plating cradles in some of his bigger HP builds for quite a few years now.

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth NOR
Posted (edited)

That makes good sense on high hp cars but the need to on a stock car?

Edited by Ralph Wiggum
quote removed
  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

OP doesn't mentioned if the cars tuned, I would say no, but if the OP's car is stock and has had this failure I could be wrong!

Guest XR09
  • Guests
Posted

The white shoite is lithium based grease. And you do need it or the poly's groan like a biatch

  • It's All In Your Mind
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 22y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

The potential of these cars let down by some basic design issues like these cradles and bushes. I love my G6E Turbo but I worry about possible future issues like this, especially now I've modified and probably have no warranty on the cradle.

Crap bushes, crap suspension, crap cradles, crap build quality, crap diff howl, all for 10 years, and over 60k for an fpv with all the same self destructing xt rubbish underneath. Ford don't give a toss, then they wonder why its getting harder to sell their cars. Shame Polites R.I.P left Ford.

  • Like 2
Guest XR09
  • Guests
Posted

Guess it shows how much Ford put into R&D

And then wonder why the dealers have such a bad attitude.

Shoite starts at the top. And smears all the way down.

  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 8m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne, South Eastern Suburbs
Posted

Fixed it last night guys. Feels so much better while driving now. No more clunking or anything. Will post some pics up later tonight.

  • Like 1
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 2m 15d
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

Ok, so I had the car at a suspension place whilst checking to determine where some of my rear end squeaks were coming from, and to my horror I was shown that my diff case was also cracked, just like the others!

Now, the bloke welded the crack up, but didn't strengthen the casing by welding any plate onto the back of the casing, as he reckons he would need to remove the rear diff bush to prevent it from melting... The rear diff bush looks ok.

My question is, will this be sufficient? Can I weld on an additional plate without melting the rear diff bush? Where do I take the car for this type of work?

This is really a concern, as I don't drive the car very hard, however it does have 327rwkw, and I think that I would strongly suggest that anyone with an FG pushing more than 300rwkw should proactively go and get this weak component strengthened.

  • Menace
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 15y 5m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted

Are there any pics of these being welded up with extra plating for strength?

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