I’m looking at upgrading the factory amp and sub nothing big just a better free air 8” sub that's fits in the parcel shelf like in the picture and a better amp to suite. I want to use the same loom that’s connected to the amp is there a way I can use this loom for the new amp? And any suggestions of what type of amp and sub I should get?

Heres a pic of the loom that connects to the amp

Cheers, Niko

Since no one knows I decided to go out and get a 8” Rockwood fosgate sub and a few sheets of dyna mat (vibration sound proof) personally I don’t think it done much lol. Hooked it up to the factory amp sounds awesome for what it is no more popping and sh*t when its turned up im really happy with it and I read somewhere on here about crossing wires over on the factory sub for better sound I done this on my new sub and gave it even more bass only thing is im pretty sure the factory amps put out 150w peak 4-Ohm and the sub I got is a dual 4-Ohm 500w peak so I bridged the wires from the sub then going to the amp so im guessing the amp is working flat out with a hi chance of it getting fried lol but I was told that few has been done and still going well after few years of use so see how we go. Reason I got the dual 4-ohm one is because there’s no dual 2-Ohm subs Rockwood subs in stock and will be a few months wait but this way sounds better and was told after a few days of use will sound even better. Hopefully this info will help anyone wanting to upgrade their sh*tty factory sub as this is a massive improvement

Part No.

Rockwood Fosgate

Dual 2-Ohm P2D2-8

Dual 4-Ohm P2D4-8

Edited April 16, 201214 yr by nikofgxr6t

Nice one! How much was the sub?

Do you think it's worth changing the front and rear door speakers too?

who cares about rear speakers? I'm pretty sure after the early 90's people started to realize your ears face forward. (was thinking back to the old days of 6x9's on a parcel shelf being the best thing in the world lol)

Nice one! How much was the sub?

Do you think it's worth changing the front and rear door speakers too?

Well for me no as I think its more than enough for what I want

Dre, low frequency sound is very good at bouncing off things. This is why you can't tell what direction bass comes from.

High frequency sound travels through things. This is why you aim rear speakers back toward you. Doesn't mean you wont be able to hear anything from behind.

Speakers in the rear should be set up for bass but should also be able to produce higher frequencies for people sitting in the back seat and to give everyone in the car the "surround" feeling.

Would you settle for a stereo home theatre system today? Don't think so.

Not sure what that remark about the 90's means.

So how did you end up connecting the new sub to the factory loom, did you have to make something up?

Im looking at doing this also.. so any help would be appreciated. Im looking at getting the JBL GTO-804.

Does the parcel shelf need to come out to fit a new 8" sub in place of the factory 8" sub? Or can it just be dropped in from the top, and wired from underneath once the trims are removed?

With Paulie on this one.. My cousin has a loud sub, if your in the back seats that's all you hear, he still has std speakers front and rear, its only music when your in the front cause you can hear everything not just dooof doooof... If you don't care about your passengers then yea just do front speakers..

Why wouldn't you do all of the speakers, they are the crappiest part of the sound system. The speakers are to the sound system as what the bush is to the diff, absolute junk!