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mjadeb1984

What To Spend My Suspension $$$ On

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Hi all

was thinking about upgrading my stock suspension and looking a two possible options, at the moment I have an uninstalled set of sl and ssl kings in their box.

now option 1 is to keep the springs and get some bilstien shocks, front sway bar and any bushes recomended by you knowledgable people

and option 2 is to sell the kingys and buy a set of coil overs either pedders extreme xa's $1950 or anything else recommended.

not planning on any track days but I do live in the hills and enjoy a late night blast as often as I can also the cash is a major point as 2000 is a bit outta my price range?

obviously good coil-overs are my better option but how would a well set up and quality option 1 compare to a cheap set of coilovers such as pedders or the ones pats selling in his "falcon coilovers" group buy. as tiens are outta my price range

what do people recommend?

cheers and look foward to any replies :spoton:

Edited by mjadeb1984

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had a set up with whiteline springs 20mm lower and adjustable whiteline bars front and back and it felt rock solid at all speeds , if you really want it to handle and not just looks one of the main things is your ride hieght try searching some of erko's posts he did a bit of research on this

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Bilsteins with Kings SL/SSL combo & front/rear adjustable swaybars on my F6 was unbeatable. Perfect on the street & handled the track well when I went a few times...

Have Pedders coilovers in my ute now & am soon making the change back to Bilsteins.

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Keep the springs, go the bilsteins or rebuildable Koni's and super pro bushes. If you need more turn in go a rear sway bar. Then save for the front if you think you still need it.

Edited by XR09

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cool thanks for your replies it seems I might be making a call to pat for some prices.

is there any other bushes I should be looking at getting?

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hypnodoc said he was very happy with his car after changing all the front bushes for nolothane ones.

im sure senna_t (pat @ wholesale suspensions) will be able to help with bushes as well

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I had bilsteins and 30 mm lower cobra springs fitted a month ago. Transformed the car!, definatly go for the bilsteins,-better for the road, koni's a bit more track orientated. Dont forget the rear bumpstops, mine was sitting on the stock bumpstops, changed them for shorter ones and she dropped another 9mm at the rear wheel- made it level. :icon_ford:

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I probably wouldn't agree with hawlass on the Koni Vs Bilstein comment - the koni's are probably more comfortable on city streets that have lots of road breaks and small ripples and pot-holes as they are a bit smoother being predominantly oil based. With the bilsteins being Nitrogen charged they can be a bit firmer on small or "high frequency" bumps.

If you like your ride firmer, go for the Bilsteins, the Koni's will still give you great performance, but will probably be more comfortable for average roads.

Replacing bushes in key areas is highly recommended. The Front Lower Control Arm bushes are a must, also the Diff Bushes. Second pick would be front upper control arm bushes and the rear Control blade bushes.

Ultimately it comes down to your budget - lets not forget that! From a budget sense, keep the coils you have, add the shocks. Bushes can end up pricey if your workshop charges like a wounded bull, so keep that in mind and get some quotes.

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cheers pat,

I was hoping you would have a read of this thread.

how much would a set of konis and front lower control arm bushes set me back/

and is a front sway bar a must?

:buttonit:

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No worries mate,

Koni's $1100

Bushes $200

Ball Joints $60 (do them while the arms are out)

DeliverY $50 :buttonit:

The front swaybar isn't a must, but its easy to fit anyway, so you can do it at a later date.

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Pat's beat me to this one....... :spoton:

These cars respond relatively easily to the right suspension upgrades, and Pat is on the money.

People may disagree....but I'll say it again anyway.

IMHO, for more turn in (and less understeer and better grip), pull the rear sway bar off it and put it under the bench. Just because one is fitted at the factory doesn't mean it always has to be there. This means less diagonal transfer of cornering weight to the front and helps stop it being overloaded, thus improving turn in. The rear will then take some more load and make the loading of the rear closer to the front. A better balanced car will occur.

IMO, a stiffer rear bar will lessen rear grip to match the front. To me, that would be a slower setup (particularly in the wet), but everybody is different. Sway bars are all about weight transfer.......lateral and diagonal.

Also, remove the shims in the upper control arms to gain some more front camber (about -1.5 degrees). That will maximise camber and caster as some camber is lost when trying to increase caster with minimal or no shims fitted. About 1mm of toe in per side should do it with this camber.

Edited by Smoke them tyres

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Agree 100% with regards to front lower control arm bushes, and pulling front shims for more neg. Having said that, I really think you need to look at more spring rate to tame the beast....that's my experience, and I'd lean towards Bilstein over Koni. I really like the high spring rate Teins.......you also need good tyres if you are to take advantage of this set up, and forget 20s :). One thing is that you will have less grip in the wet with big spring rates, but its far better in the dry and if you are running sticky tyres.

Smoke them tyres opinions on removing the rear bar on a falcon is interesting. I havent removed the rear bar on a falcon, but have gone from a bigger bar back to stock which is better. Agree that a big rear bar just lessens rear grip, it doesnt improve front end turn in. I know that removing the rear bar will assist power down under cornering loads. I am also not a fan of big sway bars at all, unless you have mega grip with wide slick tyres and big spring rates all they do is make your car corner flatter, but at the expense of grip. remember street tyres are meant to run some slip angle.

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cheers for your replies erko and smoke. im running 19's with cheapish tyres cant remember the brand?

with removing those shims for more camber will that effect tyre wear much as I do do a fair bit of straight road country driving?

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Toe in keeps the wear even across the width of the tyre when running neg camber....a corrective compensation if you will.

People should try removing the rear bar and see the difference it makes.......I'm all for maximising grip with good balance. With 620's std XR height, good dampers and a 27mm bar in the front, std rear springs and no rear bar, I have good grip up to the limit, then a touch of understeer at the limit, and then a nice controllable 4 wheel drift. Seems to me that Ford have set the chassis up and then de-tuned it to introduce some understeer by a rear bar and near zero camber and toe. These to me cause "push" in the chassis.

My experience with removing the rear bar is more sustained cornering grip from the front than an instantaneous turn in transient.

Tyre life is also much improved. The rears carry more of the load and the fronts don't suffer so much from being hammered.

I can see only 3 ways to get the front tyre wear off its outer edge:

-soften the rear in roll (even the utes don't use a rear bar)

-stiffen the front to near lockout (hmmmmm)

-introduce more initial (static) and/or dynamic camber gain (re caster/UCA pivot points)

Edited by Smoke them tyres

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You do realize these cars will never be evos... And if you treat em like one then well nice to know ya.

You might as well spend money on looks or power instead of wasting it.

Edited by Dillz

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Don't worry mate. Theres only a few carnts that can push my buttons these days, and they know who they are... And anyway that's what this joints about discussing/arguing sh*t. spoton.gif

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Not lookin to build an Evo beater but happy with my 340 kws not happy with my boat like stock suspension just a bit of an improvement wouldbe nice

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