Jump to content

What To Spend My Suspension $$$ On


mjadeb1984

Recommended Posts

  • Three pedals are better then two..
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 10m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Pat Ixnay on the truck nay... f*ckin

Edit was the f*ckin, for obvious reasons.

Edited by Dillz
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 7m 23d

Also, remove the shims in the upper control arms to gain some more front camber (about -1.5 degrees). That will maximise camber and caster as some camber is lost when trying to increase caster with minimal or no shims fitted. About 1mm of toe in per side should do it with this camber.

:thumbsup:

You're assuming we put shims in for the fun of it? Unless you're super certain we built the front apron straight and the engine box square, and the subframe is square, then please don't go removing shim packs. You'll notice that the shims installed are rarely even at all 4 points as they're there to compensate for shifts in the body and subframe, not generically "increase castor". Otherwise you'll have a car that handles great in one direction, since it'll change lanes itself in less than 10 seconds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 3m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

I run 2.5 degrees neg camber and double that in caster and 3.0mm toe per side. It does not tramline (the toe in combats it) and grip and wear is better across the whole tyre.

Besides, the movement of the rubber bushes under load makes a mockery of a static wheel alignment. I would team a good wheel alignment with poly bushes to at least make the car responsive and communicative to suspension changes.

A look here:

will surprise many.

Can't believe ordinary rubber is still the material of choice for all manufacturers, not just Ford.

Edited by Smoke them tyres
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 7m 23d

Done it with a wheel alignment....no problems. Tyre wear and life much better.

Wildly incorrect toe will usually cause unwanted direction changes.

I would hope the car is "square" when built on jigs in the factory.

Hate to disappoint, but the only jig going on is the Irish bloke dancing in the corner. :spoton::bowdown:

Tell me - how did you do a wheel alignment without shims? Toe is not going to correct a x-castor imbalance (otherwise I'd be trying that on all the time - taking 60 seconds to do a toe alignment is much quicker than changing shims!)

Oh and lets be clear here - unwanted direction changes are not solely the domain of incorrect toe settings, although they don't help. X-castor has a big role to play in pulls and drifts. Assymetric toe will also result in SWOC (steering wheel off centre) and general vehicle "wandering".

Please understand I'm just trying to discourage joe average from going and removing his shims without understanding the consequences. Clearly you've thought out your goals, understod the system, and have accepted the outcome, and that's perfectly fine, and exactly how I'd approach a problem. Just trying to get all the info out there for everybody else - shims are there for a very good reason (if they weren't we wouldn't be wasting money putting them on!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'