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  • Member For: 19y 7m 24d
  • Location: Brisbane

Thanks Danny

Your posts have been a great help, you must have spent a great deal of time working this stuff out. Thanks again.

Ps I am a little concerned about how far to take the exhaust port out to. 1-2mm of material is left on yours is that the sealing area ? did you increase the flap diameter.

James

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 7m 24d
  • Location: Brisbane
Great to see you got the wheel in motion James.

Does this mean you will be at Willowbank for test n tune this wednesday night!

Cheers Paul

Wednesday, sure but not this one as I need some........... driving time and still waiting on the mickey,s to be fitted

Chears paul, look forward to having a good go at the track soon.

James

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  • Member For: 18y 10m 3d
  • Location: Rolling on my 20's

Congrats James!

Another Crazy Rapid Phoon on streets.

The Phoons response, to quality boltons are amazing.

I'm running about 390rwkw on 14 psi, so your car is just another example of having the right set up.

I may have missed it but are you running the ZF?

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 7m 24d
  • Location: Brisbane
Congrats James!

Another Crazy Rapid Phoon on streets.

The Phoons response, to quality boltons are amazing.

I'm running about 390rwkw on 14 psi, so your car is just another example of having the right set up.

I may have missed it but are you running the ZF?

ZF box, :spoton:

390 on 14psi that's great mods. My aim is to get the boost down and clean up the tune once the fuel supply is sorted. ATM the engine is running reduced timing and high fuel untill the exaust port is modified more to allow finer boost control.

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  • Member For: 18y 10m 3d
  • Location: Rolling on my 20's
ZF box, :spoton:

390 on 14psi that's great mods. My aim is to get the boost down and clean up the tune once the fuel supply is sorted. ATM the engine is running reduced timing and high fuel untill the exaust port is modified more to allow finer boost control.

The ZF will be right as long as you don't launch it too hard and if you lunch it and least it can be fixed..in melbourne that is. Not sure if you've considered a boost controller as I have the E-boost 2 and it works very well for daily driving and having fun tunes.

Enjoy the car and get used to the power before you hit the strip!

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  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb
Thanks Danny

Your posts have been a great help, you must have spent a great deal of time working this stuff out. Thanks again.

Ps I am a little concerned about how far to take the exhaust port out to. 1-2mm of material is left on yours is that the sealing area ? did you increase the flap diameter.

James

Yes, I got a aftermarket flapper valve to replace the original.. You saw my pictures yeah?

Its approx 4-5mm bigger in diameter than the standard xr6turbo flapper.

In my original porting, I left like 3-4mm of seat / sealing area left.. so really I only opened the port up by about 2-3mm diamter total... Not enough as I later found out..

Since I removed the turbo for my second attempt, I noticed the housing already had a hairline crack at the rear side of the port, so I figure, heck, if it cracks with that much seat, its gonna crack regardless.. So I went savage :P

I now have only approx 1-2mm of seating area left, and the flapper covers it all.. Just a word of caution when taking out material from under where the arm is, dont go too far, or else the flap will get jammed and not shut, you could almost set the port up to a "D" shape rather than a "O" shape. But I think the best benefit on what needs to be done is contouring the port towards the turbo flange (where it bolts to the engine exhaust pipe), This will encourage gas flow to go into the wastegate much like how air causes a aeroplane wing to lift.

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  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb
Not sure if you've considered a boost controller as I have the E-boost 2 and it works very well for daily driving and having fun tunes.

Why get a eboost? without the ability to hook up a RPM source to the eboost, its just a overpriced bleed valve with flashing lights

I find I can control boost to a pin point using the PCM's built in PI Controller.

The only advantage of the e-boost is having the ability to change the boost on the fly.

Simple method would be to have your high level boost mapped out via the PI controller, and then if you want a "low boost" option at the flick of a switch, have a lpg gas type solenoid(hooked upto a incabin switch), which bypasses the factories boost solenoid supplying boost directly to the actuator, without being bleed off (so you will have 12psi essentually if you have a 12psi actuator)..

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb

Expensive method of doing so... If only someone made up a circuit to convert the cas signal to a useable rpm signal for the eboost.. Then it would be worth while.. never the less. I like using my PI controller :P

Pfft why have 2 boost levels.. Dont want high boost, dont floor it :P

d.

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  • Member For: 21y 6m 11d
  • Location: Sydney
Expensive method of doing so... If only someone made up a circuit to convert the cas signal to a useable rpm signal for the eboost.. Then it would be worth while.. never the less. I like using my PI controller :P

Pfft why have 2 boost levels.. Dont want high boost, dont floor it :P

d.

my eboost is set on duty cycle not on rpm setting so having 3 settings does have its advantage. Setting 1 is 10% which makes just under 300rwkw while setting 3 is 75% and makes 370+. There's a huge difference between the two at light throttle so I drive the car most days on setting 1. Eboost is a great little kit and highly recommended.

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