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  • It's All In Your Mind
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 22y 10m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

:spoton:

When in doubt, mortgage your house, sell your kids and go for REDLINE :spoton:

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 8m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted
:spoton:

When in doubt, mortgage your house, sell your kids and go for REDLINE :spoton:

The price has gone through the roof.

The best oils available are those have a ester or di-ester based molecule. Esters are polar molecules that have the ability to electro-chemically bond with metals, so as to maintain a continuous lubricant film at high or low temperatures. There are only a handful of these oils and they are more expensive. They inlcude Redline, Neo Platinum (some say this is the best oil), Motul 300V, AMSOIL, Royal Purple (??).

Of these I'd choose NEO and Motul. The Motul is not too dear, but not sure about NEO. Motul is huge in motorcycles in Australia, but not many heard of it for cars. I used the lower spec 8000 and was very happy; 300V is better.

The second tier oils are pretty much Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Penzoil, Penrite etc.

  • Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW
Posted

and what ever syth oil you choose, change it often if your boost is up and like to drive hard, these motors over heat oil fast. If it doesnt look new, change it.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 2m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: OZ
Posted
and what ever syth oil you choose, change it often if your boost is up and like to drive hard, these motors over heat oil fast. If it doesnt look new, change it.

My 10w 60 edge gets dirty after 3000kms with gentle running. The oil will still be fine so I'm sceptical about the second part of your statement. My T runs rich standard and could be fuel making the oil appear dirtier??? I don't know!!!

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Looking at the oil would have to be the single worst way to try and judge its condition.... :spoton: it gets darker because its doing its job and suspending wear particles and contaminants

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 11d
  • Location: S.A
Posted
It probably depends on which model you are referring to, as the BF uses a thinner oil than the BA does.

Does it though? Or has the 'recommendation' simply changed? When I enquired of FPV about what oil I should use in my F6, they said that Ford/FPV will use different products over time (depending on cost, and new products that come out). As long as you stay within spec, you're ok. Some dealers use Mobil for servicing, others use Castrol for example. All off the shelf stuff, except for the run-in oil perhaps.

I can assure everyone this is correct. Trust me. :spoton:

ba bf xr6t oil weights are the same for both ford recomend WSE-M2C905-A ,

R1-340 15W 40 , same as the gas eng, f6?? :spoton: :spoton:

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 8m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted
Looking at the oil would have to be the single worst way to try and judge its condition.... :spoton:  it gets darker because its doing its job and suspending wear particles and contaminants

Yep, I'd be worried if my oil wa still clean after 3000km. Only way to tell is to do an oil analysis. The guy I used to buy NEO off, did one free of charge when I saw him.

Is anybody running an engine oil cooler? A good synthetic does run cooler, NEO has been measured to upto 25C cooler than a mineral oil.

The best way to improve engine oil life is a good bypass filter, that can filter out down to a micro or so and removes nearly all the oil killing contaminants, that the standard filter can't trap. It's installed in parallel with the standard fitler and only filters about 10% at anyone time, but filters all the all oil in about an hour. Most standard filters are lucky to get down to 25um, and most of the contaminants that cause engine wear are in the 5-10um range. With one of these fitted you can extend oil life to 40000km.

They should be mandatory on diesels, as it eliminates that black soot many of the older ones blowout, which is caused by dirty oil.

  • 5 years later...
  • Inactive Members
  • Member For: 14y 1m 19d
Posted

realisticly the 0W-40 oil only means that the oil will maintain its viscosity at lower temperatures, there is absolutly no reason that someone could not waiver from the reccommended 15w-40 in fact for some one living in the southern states a 0w oil may be more benificial to them. What people need to be wary of is running these oils in hotter climates where ambient temperatures and therefore engine temps are higher, from my experience if a good quality oil is used then it will hold up to the temperatures without loosing its lubircity characteristics. Here in the top end many people successfully use a single grade of oil in their vehicles/ machines very successfully, it is a matter of consideration as to how often is the vehicle going to be exposed to lower running temperatures. Of course though there is cost, having a multi grade oil with such a high temperature span is not going to be an in-expensive exercise as that spectrum of oil grade on the side of the bottle narrows then quite often so does the price.

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